Front axle adjustment and maintenance theory

Sadlsor

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While this is an Aussie enduro rider, he has some decent thoughts about general bike familiarization, and the opening sequence regarding the stress on the front axle and forks is legitimate and applies to any motorcycle. Not much different than what our go-to guys espouse, but clear explanation presented.
You may or may not find value after the axle and forks explanation; particularly about chain adjustment, but his overall thoughts on being familiar with your machine and inspiring confidence may help some here.
The opinions here have not been reviewed nor endorsed by st-owners.com.

How to Maintain Your Motorcycle
 

sky.high

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ARiemann1 vidoes are awesome, checkout the warhorse and his adventure riding technique vidoes, love them all!
Your Adv ain't no caravan!!!
 

jfheath

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A nice laid back style. Funny - his Ozzie accent was very strong to my ears when he started. By about half way through, I hardly noticed it - he could have been a local Yorkshire Lad. My ears warmed to it very quickly. But he's way too laid back to be mistaken for Yorkshire. Brilliant.

For the STs - you have to take the gist of what hes is saying, rather than the detail and apply it slightly differently. Like - you don't go doing that to the front right (brake lever) fork leg. But it is absolutely what is going on before you clamp up the front left (clutch) fork leg.

Thanks @Sadlsor
 
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Sadlsor

Sadlsor

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I'll admit, John, I was mildly appalled when he took that screwing-hammer to his fork end... like, "is that really necessary?!"
I ain't a-gonna do that to my ST!
Nor to any Beemer I shall own.
But the concept of fork binding and / or twisting is real, I agree.
 

ST1100Y

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Donno...
Just did head bearings and fork overhaul on my 1100...
The massive lower triple clamp takes care of fork alignment...
Axles have some indicator in form of a mark, groove or their end is supposed to be flush with the clamp...
If those things don't just fall right into place during assembly, something is damaged...
Good tip on the handlebar- and armature-clamps, watch out for their orientation and observe the markings...
Hondas have punch marks on the handlebar enabling one to set the tube itself, as well as brake- and clutch-master right back on the default positions...
 
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The chain adjustment idea isn't new to me. I've been doing it for decades. I originally posted this in the old Nighthawk Forum, and re-posted it in the new one (which I host):

The factory recommends 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches of slack with the bike on the side-stand, but how accurate is that? The ideal slack is as little as possible without ever getting tight, so I use my own procedure. I start by lubing it after a warm-up ride, then let it cool, maybe overnight, and on the center stand.

I remove the seat and route a tie-down strap over the bike frame, under the swing-arm on both sides, back over the bike frame, and hook the strap ends together. I then tighten the strap, compressing the rear springs, until the sprockets are in a straight line with the swing-arm pivot, which is where the chain will be tightest.

I then rotate the rear wheel several times while checking the chain for the least slack, as chains don't wear evenly. Once I find the position with the least slack, I adjust the chain for very little play, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch. That's as tight as it can be without the risk of it being too tight.
 

JohnK

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Similar technique on my tiger but like said before lube after a good ride the adjust next day if needed.
When I rehabbed the ST front forks with new springs both forks equally installed parts - I used the axel to align my forks and made minor adjustments to assure they we equal on the tree by using a level. The shop floor and bike sat level before doing this.
First 100 mile ride - it was delight to find it fully centered not only hands free, no right or left drift and no wobble - with less sag and feels even more sportier than before
IMG_4615.jpeg
 

Igofar

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Similar technique on my tiger but like said before lube after a good ride the adjust next day if needed.
When I rehabbed the ST front forks with new springs both forks equally installed parts - I used the axel to align my forks and made minor adjustments to assure they we equal on the tree by using a level. The shop floor and bike sat level before doing this.
First 100 mile ride - it was delight to find it fully centered not only hands free, no right or left drift and no wobble - with less sag and feels even more sportier than before
IMG_4615.jpeg
John, you do realize that level did absolutely NOTHING as far as making sure the forks were true right?
Was the floor level? The lift level? The bike on the lift level? Is Washington as level as Arizona? :rofl1:
Only feel will show you if the forks are mated together.
Does the axle spin freely? and slide side to side with just two fingers?
Cute picture though, made me laugh.
Have a great weekend.
:WCP1:
 

JohnK

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John, you do realize that level did absolutely NOTHING as far as making sure the forks were true right?
Was the floor level? The lift level? The bike on the lift level? Is Washington as level as Arizona? :rofl1:
Only feel will show you if the forks are mated together.
Does the axle spin freely? and slide side to side with just two fingers?
Cute picture though, made me laugh.
Have a great weekend.
:WCP1:
Lol Yes to all questions except the state comparison. You have a good weekend too
 
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Sadlsor

Sadlsor

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Lol Yes to all questions except the state comparison. You have a good weekend too
Thanks for keeping a good humor, John... but I think you get Larry's gist... his point, if you will.
"Level" means nothing in this context, EXCEPT as relates to the axle holes in each fork leg (assuming your axle itself runs true, and is not bent, tweaked or compromised). The axes of both those holes and the straight bit that runs through them are to be in alignment and that's the objective of this exercise.
It reduces unwelcome forces and input on the tracking of the front wheel, and the uppy-downy of the forks and springs (I've been reading @Upt' North and 'er Indoors at breakfast for too long) to stay in line with the chassis.
Follow us next episode, where we talk about rear wheel alignment, to end this series... :p
 
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