Front Fork Question

[PopJack]

Short version: How do I get the "Oil Lock Piece" off the "Damper Assembly?"

Long version: I realized that at 76,000 miles, I should have probably changed my fork oil by now. Took the forks off (never done that before), took them apart using the manual (never done that, but easy), got the blackish oil all out, started cleaning.

The manual says remove the damper assembly and oil lock piece from the tube and it appears on the drawing they are two separate items. They come out together, however. In the interest of trying to "de-crap" the forks, it seems like I ought to take them apart for cleaning.

Suggestions welcome.

 

[Scooter]

IIRC, just give it a tug and it should separate. Perhaps twisting the oil lock piece will help...

 

[dduelin]

IIRC, just give it a tug and it should separate. Perhaps twisting the oil lock piece will help...

+1. IIRC the bottom bolt is the only thing retaining the oil lock to the cartridge damper and you removed that to get the damper assembly out.

 

[CBR 46]

This might help you finish the job

https://picasaweb.google.com/116177976159614867888/ForkSeals?authkey=Gv1sRgCN6t6cbsmrTogwE#

 

[PopJack]

Interesting. ON these photos the two parts came out together and were never separated.

 

[Scooter]

Jack, took mine apart last night after my first post. One one side the oil lock piece came off by itself when I pulled the damper rod out of the tube. On the other one I need to give it quite a tug in order to ge it off but it did come off...

 

[T_C]

I was going to take mine to the tech event in Indiana and see if I can enlist some help, but with the photo pictorial I may just try it at home by myself.
Thanks,
T

 

[PopJack]

Thought for the day:

anything that starts with "in my own defense" can't be good.​

That said, "in my own defense, I have religiously performed the maintenance in the manual. I did not know fork oil needed to be changed."

After 76,000 miles, the oil was black. There were pockets of tar like substance that caused adhesion between some parts- and presumably restricted movement. The bushings were all worn. The copper on the outside of the slider bushings was severely eroded and the teflon on the main sliders was worn to where you could see copper through it in most places. The forks themselves are marred in appearance, but they feel smooth.

No worries, I have all new seals and bushings and the retention ring- already installed on one, I'll finish the other tomorrow.


OK- her's the kicker: There was some kind of active corrosion going on on this retention ring (the one between the oil seal and the slider bushings. I don't see it anywhere else, but it really worries me.

As noted, I already have a replacement, I had decided that I didn't want parts to hold me up any longer, so I ordered anything that I thought might be bad.

I decided to replace the springs with Heavy Duty hyper-pros. (Yes, I'm fat and I carry a lot of stuff). Hans was a great help, answering his phone at 7:30 this evening to help me understand a questionable part of the directions.

Funny but true: The spring broke on my garage door and until I can get someone to replace it, I can't get the door open so I won't be able to test ride the bike.

 

[Scooter]

Funny but true: The spring broke on my garage door and until I can get someone to replace it, I can't get the door open so I won't be able to test ride the bike.

Are you saying, Spring is sprung?!?

I'm wondering if not changing the fluid in all of this time resulted in acceleration of wear on the Teflon coating on the bushings? I've got 115K on my fork components and the bushings are still reasonablefor now. Probably will change them out the next time I change the fluid though...

 

[PopJack]

Both forks back on the bike. Everything went swimmingly. Next I'm going to remove the rear shock and see about replacing the spring. The pre-load is apparently all the way out. Considering having it rebuilt.

I wonder is there any way to tell of the shock needs rebuilt? Its been bottoming out regularly on trips, so I'm thinking the heavier spring- with or without the shock should help.

Hope to have the garage door fixed soon so I can see if this stuff made a difference.

BTW: Concerning the original question. I had to tap the oil lock assembly off of the damper with a hammer and a drift. This damaged both pieces, but I cleaned them up with a file. The 'fore mentioned black gue was sticking them together.

 

[dduelin]

It's simple to replace the oil in the rear shock preload adjuster if it takes a bunch of turns to build resistance. There is an article in the forum with pics.

Look here to see if the rear shock still works well: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAhksxRCIik

If the shock responds to changes in damping adjustment it's probably still good. How many miles?

 

[PopJack]

76,000 miles. The pre-load is all the way in, but looking at the shock, the pre-load cylinder appears to be full extended also- so I guess that's good. The rebound is good (just like in the excellent video) also- the problem is bottoming out when I'm traveling.

I've got a heavier spring, but don't know if I should have the shock rebuilt when I put it on. (It's expensive to do by my book).

 

[dduelin]

It still bothers me that I got Dinkie's name wrong on the video. It was an honest mistake but he still insists on calling me Darren or Darrell.

If the adjuster takes up resistance from nearly the first turn you are probably getting full preload adjustment... If so and you are bottoming out often it sounds like you need a spring with a higher rate. A rebuild with a stiffer spring at RaceTech is in the ballpark of $450-475. Spring alone less than a quarter of that.