Goldwing Switch for ST1100 Cruise Install

Joined
Sep 11, 2011
Messages
382
Location
Pearland, Tx.
Bike
97 ST1100 04 ST1300
STOC #
8492
1997 Honda ST1100
OK, so I have the Audiovox clone from Murph and want to FINALLY install it when I have my bike down for some maintenance (timing belt etc.). I was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction regarding information on using the Goldwing 1500 switch to control the cruise as my starter switch is being buggy "again" so ... I thought I'd just change the whole thing out if I could.
Any particular year GL switch work better? Wiring? Is this a pain in the behind installation? (LOL) Anything else (I'm missing) would be helpful :)
 
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
787
Location
Lexington, KY
Bike
1998 ST1100
STOC #
8643
I really need to write some sort of tech article on this install, it would really save me some time... Anyhoo... if you search around the forum you should find a complete write up on the install of an 1800 goldwing switch on a ST1300. I personally didn't like the size of that particular switch (or the price) so I personally put a GL1500 switch on my ST1100. It is a little smaller but it is not backlit like the 1800 one. I was cool with that because after about 2 seconds you can memorize what switch is where and should you really be looking at your hands anyway? The GL1500 switches are readily available on ebay relatively cheap for used ones or you can get a new one on there for quite a bit more. I bought a used one and it looked it. I was able to clean it up well and it ended up matching my old bike pretty nicely. I will say though, make sure you study the pictures of the used ones before you purchase! The other advantage of the GL1500 switch on an ST1100 is that the bikes were made at the same time so the wiring is plug and play. Both switches utilize the same 9 connector hitachi plug for standard right switch functions. The GL switch also has an additional 6 connector plug which contains the cruise functions. (Much like the police switch) The only wiring change in the main harness was to reverse the positions of the kill switch wires. (as mentioned, you may not have to do this) Otherwise everything will work except the kill switch. There are 4 connectors outside the body of the switch, two are for the brake light switch while the other two are meant for an additional switch only the Goldwing has and aren't used on the ST. The 6 wire connector contains 1-12v wire "in" to the cruise switch, 1-12v "out" for turning the cruise control on/off, one wire each for resume/accel and set/decel, and those two extra wires mentioned earlier. The wiring in your case will go like this..

The first color listed will be from the CCS (murph) and the second will be the GL Switch.

Green to white w/yellow stripe

Brown to black w/yellow stripe

Yellow to white w/blue stripe

Orange to white

Hope this helps. I love the gl switch on my st. it looks completely factory and only somebody who knows better would even think it wasn't. the only other things to consider is that there may be clearance issues if you don't have risers due to the size of the switch. I personally have 4" risers and have plenty of room to spare at full right lock between the gl switch and the "tank". And lastly, the gl switches wiring is about 4 times longer than the st's. I cut out the extra but you might be able to stuff it somewhere. Any other questions, just let me know.
 
OP
OP
Aladinbama
Joined
Sep 11, 2011
Messages
382
Location
Pearland, Tx.
Bike
97 ST1100 04 ST1300
STOC #
8492
I think you just took care of most of your "tech article". You've now got 90% or so of your information in one place anyway!
Thanks a Bunch! Now I just need some down time in order to get some of this stuff done. I have dreams of some longer rides, but I guess we'll see.
 

kiltman

Site Supporter
Joined
Apr 27, 2013
Messages
3,283
Age
68
Location
Stratford, Ontario Canada
Bike
2002,ST1100ABS
STOC #
8826
The only wiring change in the main harness was to reverse the positions of the kill switch wires. (as mentioned, you may not have to do this) Otherwise everything will work except the kill switch.

.
I know this is a three year old post but, I want to clarify how one reversed the position of the wires for the kill switch. Did you do that at the Hitachi connector by reversing the pins? or in the switch housing itself?

Many thanks
Robert
 
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