Help! Fork caps stuck

[billo]

I think I know where this is going but I don't have an air gun so I have to ask. I'm tearing into the front end to install the RaceTech valves. The wheel is off and the simplest thing has got me stopped in my tracks. I loosened the top pinch bolt on the fork tubes and neither cap will budge. I've tried a breaker bar and an impact driver. I am definitely turning in the proper direction for right hand threads. Any ideas? Thanks,

Bummed Bill

 

[billo]

Matt,

Thanks but I opted for taking the forks to the shop and they're installing everything right now. I didn't want to deal with stubborn parts and a hangover. I'll get the forks back this afternoon!

Bill

 

[Marshal_Mercer]

Matt,

Thanks but I opted for taking the forks to the shop and they're installing everything right now. I didn't want to deal with stubborn parts and a hangover. I'll get the forks back this afternoon!

Bill

Difficulty in removing the fork caps was one of the issues that drove me to having Race Tech do the work for me. With one fork tube securely locked in a vice, I had to push on the socket wrench to hold it onto the cap while the Race Tech tech used a breaker bar extension on the wrench handle! The other cap came right off. My local Honda dealer was the last one to remove the fork caps, so I suspect that their tech got overly aggressive when replacing it. IIRC the manual calls for 17 foot pounds of torque.

Marshal

 

[billo]

It's not over yet. I got the forks back but couldn't get the axle into place. It would go through and hang up just as it touched the opposite fork. Even tapped a little on the end with wood and a hammer and still no go. I finally gave up and removed the forks. And there it was. The bolt in the bottom of the left fork protruding into the channel for the axle. The axle would go past the protrusion but not the axle shoulder. Back they go on monday. I'm praying they didn't jack things up. It looks like they may have replaced the bolts with taller headed ones. The right fork is more recessed and it works there but not the shallower left side. Guess I'll ride the Vstrom tomorrow

 

[Pete McCrary]

Here's what I found works:

1. Leave the forks in the triple clamps. Loosen the top triple clamp pinch bolts but leave the bottom ones tight. I know it should make any difference, but it does. Someone, someway, it's as it the upper triple clamp pinch bolt is actually compressing the fork tube.

2. The caps should break loose with a minimal amount of effort. The lower triple clamp is the best "vice" for holding them as it contacts the forks for 360?. You will have the forks go all the way against the left fork stop when you do this.

3. When you reinstall them, you don't want them much more than finger tight. Have to remember you're threading aluminum male threads into steel female threads.

4. The fork cap has an "O" ring so you don't need them supertight for them not to leak oil - finger tight plus a hair is all you need.

 

[billo]

Here's what I found works:

1. Leave the forks in the triple clamps. Loosen the top triple clamp pinch bolts but leave the bottom ones tight.
2. The caps should break loose with a minimal amount of effort.

Original Post:

"I loosened the top pinch bolt on the fork tubes and neither cap will budge. I've tried a breaker bar and an impact driver."

I beleive this qualifies as well beyond minimal effort.

 

[ST_John]

That's too bad you had such a difficult time - I did this on Sunday and was very happy I have a 2' breaker bar with 1/2" drive. That's what it took to get mine apart on both sides.

I had a seal failure on the left side so I replaced both while I had it all apart.

Hopefully everything is okay when you get them back.

 

[bdalameda]

What happened is that they stripped the bottom bolt head out when they tried to remove it and then drilled the head off to get the fork apart. They then replaced the bottom bolt with a standard socket head bolt and the standard head bolt is too long for the axle to fit. I know this because I did the same thing. You can remove the bolt and grind the head down enough for axle clearance and still have enough of the hex in the socket head to tighten it up. Some blue thread sealant is recommended.

Dan

 

[rider13]

I had to take it to a machineshop when I was changing the oil.

Only $20.00

better then f#$%^#% the cap.

 

[billo]

Dan,

Sounds like something I would do.
They replaced the bolts with longer ones because the RaceTech website said to. I think they must have access to some pages there us mortals don't get to see. The original bolts were returned to me intact.

I did get the fork back today, problem fixed, reassembled the front end and went for a spin. Smooth, well behaved and tracks like it's on rails. I have .95 springs with an extra 1/4 inch preload. I'm 180 lbs and the sag is dead on perfect at about 1 1/3 inch. I can't wait for the Hyperpro shock to arrive in a couple weeks. The stock shock seems suddenly sucky by comparison.

 

[DonP.]

I had the same problem getting the caps off! Honda goes well above 17ftlb or must use thread locker! I lossened the top tripleclamp bolts too and got the left one off ok but the right one started to strip out just as it broke free! I'll have to replace it next time in...

 

[billo]

Before the install, with the top of the fork tubes aligned with the top of the triple clamps I measured 5 5/8" from the bottom triple clamp to the dust seal (forks fully extended). With the kit installed I measure 5 7/8" now, 1/4" longer.
I'm wondering about the longer bolts needed, possibly an install issue. I've emailed Racetech just now but their earlier response was "longer bolts not required". This was a sales person responding though so I've asked for further verification. It's a safety issue after all. Then I thought, why not get some real world input. What are you guys measuring on the stock and modified? Pre '08

Thanks,

Bill