Help installing rear brake pads

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Dec 5, 2009
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Rineyville, KY (summer) Hernando Beach, FL (winter
I just installed the rear brake pads on my 2008 ST-1300. I was able to remove the old pads easily. However, I had difficulty mounting the inner pad, the one on the wheel side of the rotor. I had to remove the spring and fiber backing to get the pad in place. Once the pin was secure and I pumped the brakes, I saw that there was considerable drag. I took the bike for a three or four mile ride, using the brakes off and on. When I returned, the brakes still drag and the rotor was hot enough to vaporize spit on my finger.

Just after I ordered the new pads, I was advised to use OEM pads. I bought SUMO pads. Is it possible that the brake material is too thick?
 

Mellow

Joe
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Never heard of Sumo pads, OEMs are the preferred option.

Did you clean the pistons off? I would remove the wheel and do that if you've never done it before.

 

Kevcules

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It seems that the "fitment" of the aftermarket pads causes grief. OEM is what is suggested for these bikes.
If a thorough cleaning (pistons and slider pins) and double checking the position of the pad ears doesn't change your situation, you may have to purchase OEM pads.
The rear rotor does get pretty hot though especially after trying to break in new pads, not sure what the temperature would be but I've noticed mine get fairly hot after returning from a ride.
A good test for brake drag is to try and rotate the rear wheel while on the center stand. If you get to 2 turns, (or close to) you should be good. You should also test your SMC to make sure it's not the cause. Lay down on the left side of the bike and spin the rear tire with your foot. (while on the center stand.) Then press up on the SMC. The tire should stop immediately, then be able to spin again quickly.
Good luck
 

Igofar

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I just installed the rear brake pads on my 2008 ST-1300. I was able to remove the old pads easily. However, I had difficulty mounting the inner pad, the one on the wheel side of the rotor. I had to remove the spring and fiber backing to get the pad in place. Once the pin was secure and I pumped the brakes, I saw that there was considerable drag. I took the bike for a three or four mile ride, using the brakes off and on. When I returned, the brakes still drag and the rotor was hot enough to vaporize spit on my finger.

Just after I ordered the new pads, I was advised to use OEM pads. I bought SUMO pads. Is it possible that the brake material is too thick?
Your attempt to save $$$ on pads may bite you in the butt!
What SPRING and BACKING did you remove to get the pad in place?
Honda pads have a heat guard to protect the fluid and lines from heat damage. (FYI rear Honda brake lines are almost always on 6 month back order)
Please tell me you didn't remove the Upper caliper spring clip, then try and operate your bike with this not in place :please1:
I would strongly urge you NOT to ride your bike with those pads, and/or missing pieces, or you could damage the lines, rear caliper mounting bracket, guide pins, and possibly even the rotor.
Also, did you assemble the caliper, and/or the rear wheel in the proper sequence?
Its bad enough to use Non-OEM pads on These bikes, but to remove parts, and or mix and match parts, your risking not only damaging your bike, but using your medical co-pay if things go south.
Please be careful.
 

Andrew Shadow

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Start by having a look at the below article. Then go through your brakes again to make sure that everything is as it should be. If you still have a problem, come back with what you found and people will offer suggestions.
 
Joined
Jun 28, 2022
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Texas
Never heard of Sumo.

I have installed EBC pads, with my first pad change, and that was a BIG MISTAKE.

NEVER install aftermarket pads on this bike ... after 1,000 miles on EBC, I took those off and put on Mother Honda pads ... all problems went away.
(I thought I'd save some money, but I ended up spending more in the end).
 
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