How Many Miles Do You Get Out of Rear Brake Pads?

[jfheath]

Probably around 16,000 miles for the rear - which wears out faster than the fronts - due to the amount of road much that is thrown up at them. Better these days since I don't have to ride in winter.

I tend to change pads out earlier than necessary because I can never be sure whether the existing pads will last for the upcoming 2000 mile tour. I keep the better sets, but have never felt I wanted to refit an older set.

He had developed a removeable wedge that could be quickly installed, to effectively lock out the smc's function. I am not sure of how completely it separated the front/rear braking. But it could be quickly removed when desired.

Just to comment on this - it would not be a foolproof solution. Sure, it may stop the SMC from being activated so that the front brake does not cause the rear outer pistons in the rear caliper from operating.
However, when the rear brake pedal is applied, if the SMC cannot activate the rear brake, then the rear pedal will - it will push fluid past the primary seal inside the SMC to reach the rear outer pistons - just as it does when bleeding the rear most bleed valve on the rear caliper. As a result, the rear pedal may feel a tad softer and be less effective, as it then has to activate 5 pistons instead of just three.

 

[RobbieAG]

It's good to know that I'm in the ballpark normal range with 16k miles like many other riders. I'm pretty sure I'd have gotten a couple thousand more if I put them back on after the recent tire change. It's definitely a mindset adjustment when I compare that with my 2000 Honda Accord (purchased new) with 283,000 miles and original rear brakes!

 

[paulcb]

Another data point from my 2001 ST1100 ABSII, which I bought with 16k miles...

Front Pad Replacement	Rear Pad Replacement
24k miles, installed EBC pads	24k miles, installed EBC pads
	56k miles, installed Bikemaster pads
91k miles, installed Honda OEM pads	98k miles, installed Honda OEM pads
134k miles, installed Honda OEM pads (still had some left)	134k miles, installed Honda OEM pads (nothing left)

So, 43k-67k miles on the front and 32k-42k miles on the rear. This is about 40% commuting and 60% touring.

 

[Catmandu2]

134k miles, installed Honda OEM pads (nothing left)

So just so we know if we are comparing apples and apples,,,, does the ST11 have the same linked rear/smc system that the ST13 has ?? I really don't know,, and don't want to jump to the wrong conclusions,,, thx,,, CAt'

 

[paulcb]

So just so we know if we are comparing apples and apples,,,, does the ST11 have the same linked rear/smc system that the ST13 has ?? I really don't know,, and don't want to jump to the wrong conclusions,,, thx,,, CAt'

Yes, the ABSII ST1100 has pretty much the same linked braking system as the ST1300, except the ST11 has a more robust SMC.

 

[jfheath]

Yes, the ABSII ST1100 has pretty much the same linked braking system as the ST1300, except the ST11 has a more robust SMC.

I agree with Paul. The SMC faces downwards, very much like the rear pedal master cyclinder. So it doesn't suffer from the same issues of water pooling near the 'open' end of the master cylinder.
It does however have a 3 hole link bracket which has needle rollwer bearings. On ABSII models it is hidden behind a plastic shroud and if often forgotten about, and over here in the UK the paint flakes off, it rusts and the corrosion interferes with the correct movement of that linkage. It's well worth whil taking the linkage off and cleaning it up. Take a photo before you undo the bolts to make sure it goes back together correctly. I couldn't take photos of it in place - I couldn't get the screw out that held the grey shround in place. I had to work blind.

When I did mine, the needles were clearly needles. The grease was a mixture of black stuff and iron oxide powder which used to be the top surface of the clamping plates, the split pin was a solid shaft of rust and the movement was non existent. It all cleaned up a treat and worked just fine after that.

The document below is specifically for the ST1300, but the description of the plumbing applies equally to the ST1100. with ABS2 (3 pistons per caliper). I wish I had known all of what's in here when I had my 2000 ST1100AY.

Article [13] - ST1300 Maintenance - Getting all the air out of the brake system | ST1300 Articles | ST-Owners.com (st-owners.com)

 

[paulcb]

Good points John. I just replaced all F/R pads, cleaned the pistons, verified the caliper slides and flushed the fluid. I also inspected that SMC bracket and it was in good shape, so left it alone.

BTW, I just pull the whole front fender (both halves) to work on my brakes... only takes a 4 bolts (IIRC) and few minutes.

 

[drtyrrel]

I have replaced mine twice and I bought my bike with @ 8000 miles on it. It now has @ 46200 miles. I practice slow speed maneuvers a lot ( drag rear brake some) and also use my bike for demos coaching BRC2'S.

 

[Sadlsor]

It now has @ 46200 miles. I practice slow speed maneuvers a lot ( drag rear brake some) and also use my bike for demos coaching BRC2'S.

Cool! A fellow RC on here.
Question for ya: how long did it take, before you could make both u-turns in the 20ft box?
Practicing in the parking lot at work, was my first drop. Two days after I got it home!
When I got on the range, it took me over half an hour before I could roll through it with some confidence.
Ultimately, counterweighting a bit brought it all together for me. Heaviest bike I've ever owned, so it did take me a little while and several passes before I could ride it confidently in the small box.
But it sure feels good when you can pull it off, consistently. I always knew the bike could do it, not so sure about me though.
I don't use the brake, just the friction zone.

 

[drtyrrel]

hey Sadlsor
It usually takes me a few warm ups to keep it in 20ft. Rear brake, a little speed and relaxing my arms and shoulders seams to work for me. The second turn is usually the hardest for me. If I kind of let it start to fall into the turn then let the clutch out to pick it up it's easier. I think the ST is less top heavy and easier for slow speed stuff than my old r1100rt.

 

[mortenk]

If you mount the sliding pin slightly angled, you get less than 1,000 miles from a set. And the wear will be only in one end of the pads. How do I know this?

 

[MaxPete]

Sorry for the thread hijack, but I search on "safety" and this thread came up.

Here is good advice for us all:

 

[dduelin]

hey Sadlsor
It usually takes me a few warm ups to keep it in 20ft. Rear brake, a little speed and relaxing my arms and shoulders seams to work for me. The second turn is usually the hardest for me. If I kind of let it start to fall into the turn then let the clutch out to pick it up it's easier. I think the ST is less top heavy and easier for slow speed stuff than my old r1100rt.

At the end of many rides I practice a few full lock figure 8s in the parking lot beside the gas station where I fill up before pulling into my neighborhood. The R1200RT is like a pony compared to the ST or the Wing. It's so easy to keep between the 18' lines even with the dry clutch. I ride once or twice a week so this drill keeps me sharp. The Wing I cannot keep between the 18' lines but it has an 8" longer wheelbase.