That looked relatively easy
@caldercay . I've never been able to remove the caliper without taking the pads off first. I don't bother trying these days. I'll have to give that another go.
But - I have noticed that it is possible for the tab end of the pads to drop out of the retaining clip - through the gap provided for the brake disc. The danger of this is that you put the caliper into place knowing that the pads are correctly seated, and you assume that they are still correctly seated. But it is not unknown for the inside caliper to have dropped out and it ends up riding on the hub, and then forever scraping a nice groove in the wheel hub, slowly separating the left hand side from the right hand side.
I think that is what has happened is
@Sadlsor 's video. The first tell tale sign is that the pads are leaning twoards each other.
There is the danger that while the pads are flopping around in the caliper housing, and you are trying to negotiate the brake disk, that the pads knock the pad spring out of the roof of the caliper.
I find it so much easier to have the pads out, check the silver retainer clip is in place, check the pad spring is the correct way round, and firmly seated, and then get the calipr and caliper bracket onto the axle, and the stopper bolt in place. The pads can then be inserted. I put the outside one in first, press it up against the pad spring and slid the pad pin through the hole and lock it in place. Then slide in the rear, keeping the caliper and the brake disk rotor squeezing the pad - to ensure that the pad seats on the correct side of the tags on the pad spring. Then when the pad is seated in the retainer clip (you get to recognise the feel), push the pad upwards agains the spring and push the pad pin all the way through.
You still need to check that both pads are positioned correctly at the tab end. Check the inside pad through the spokes of the wheel. Check the outboard one near the stopper bolt hole - you need to move the brake hose out of the way. There are photos of this in the avoid the Pitfalls article linked above (and, as it turns out, added as an afterthought here).
Also check which needs to be tightened first - the stopper bolt or the axle bolt. The answer is that the stopper bolt must be tightened first so that when tightening the axle, it doesn't cause the caliper bracket to turn and put a side load onto the thread of the stopper, preventing the stopper bolt from tightening square. If you ask very nicely he'll show you the spiral fluting that this can create, and the long term binding that occurs as a consequence.
