Is it my battery? 2002 ABS ST1100A

[ArTravlR]

Update: ST is now in my garage and it's time to remove the swing arm but first I need to order parts. First item is the swing arm removal tool, ks-hba-08-469 or superseded by 07908-4690003. My google/bling search has it all over the place, different images etc. I'm confused by this inconsistency. Partzilla has it at $106, Amazon says unavailable, Ebay says there are plenty in Europe for about $50 but I don't trust it and Walmart has a multi-tool looking gizmo for $35. It looks I'm going to have to order the Walmart tool and again, I don't trust it because it looks so different from the OEM tool. Any advice would be appreciated. TIA

 

[V4 Rider]

Honda Classics ( eBay seller Roger7500_1) are the place to go for replica tools. That is their business. They are made by them in UK, not imported from Asia.

Order direct at https://www.honda-classics.co.uk/ if you don't trust fleaBay

 

[dwalby]

I believe John O. has a loaner tool kit available, or if he doesn't have it he could tell you who does.

 

[mjc506]

Just get a socket and trim it down with a dremmel or angle grinder. It doesn't take that much torque really.

 

[ArTravlR]

Update: When I began to pull parts off the bike, I found bad wheel bearings. I thought I'd replace that before doing anything else. ABS error code 7 has gone away after replacing the rear wheel bearings. (That must have been the noise I heard when the trouble became known.) Nice check ride this afternoon but ,,,, the voltage at the battery is right at 12v not the 14v as it should be. Voltage regulator (?) should be the issue but someone else will have to do that work. It's beyond my meager abilities.

 

[kiltman]

No, it’s not an obvious red wire issue

That can be the problem it’s NOT obvious. Have you taken the red connector apart from the main relay? That rubber boot can hide some nasty stuff.
The voltage regulator is built into the alternator. It’s cheaper to replace the alternator with the Chinese unit. Once the swingarm is off it’s a 5 minute job to swap it out.
you replaced the battery if I recall, I would put it on an independent charger and check the voltage after it’s fully charged.
Good luck

 

[Slydynbye]

the voltage at the battery is right at 12v not the 14v as it should be.

It only hits 14.1 while running, what is the exact measurement while it's off ? A good battery at rest and fully charged only shows 12.6 - 13

 

[Pumper]

Here is the charging loop with a volt meter:
Generator - Puts out AC.
Battery - 12.8v static is ideal/well charged.
Vo/Reg - Anything under 14.7v is not the v/r.

It's not the battery if PUSH is there to set the load is the starter motor. Sure, 12.6v could be there, but click-click means no PUSH = Battery junk.
It's not the generator if it can send it to the V/R.
IT's not the VR if it can still send a volt point something to ground, not a full 16+v and begin to cook the battery to one sniffing around is the sulfur and then the bulging battery case off a bad VR. That's all gen moving thru/over the VR and taking that shortest path and so on.

So if I see a static 12.6-13v and that kind of average, then I'd think 14.1v is more that balance of numbers against battery to VR?
If I saw my static 13v and the battery is now 12.0 and dropping, that would be the generator.

As for the code 7, that's all guessing is the ABS tone wheel was out of wave length against that steady air gap needed for consistency in input. Code goes away and the air gap is back in play. Makes sense to me.