Issues with the neutral switch for kickstand

[PmodelinUS]

I have a 93 1100 that has developed a fussy neutral switch. The issue comes and goes. The bike definately goes in and out of gear fine so I am guessing this is a contact issue. If I am riding and stop at a light the nuetral light usually comes one, but sometimes it will flicker while sitting at the light. Other times it just doesn't come on. Most mornings when I go to start it I have to put the bike on the center stand to let it warm up. If I just use the kickstand it either doesn't acknolege it is in neutral or it dies while idling if the neutral light goes out. This all started happening after I lubricated the kickstand last fall. Not sure if it's a coinincdence or not. Really just want to fix it as this is annoying. Thanks in advance as always.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I have a 93 1100 that has developed a fussy neutral switch. The issue comes and goes. The bike definately goes in and out of gear fine so I am guessing this is a contact issue. If I am riding and stop at a light the nuetral light usually comes one, but sometimes it will flicker while sitting at the light. Other times it just doesn't come on. Most mornings when I go to start it I have to put the bike on the center stand to let it warm up. If I just use the kickstand it either doesn't acknolege it is in neutral or it dies while idling if the neutral light goes out. This all started happening after I lubricated the kickstand last fall. Not sure if it's a coinincdence or not. Really just want to fix it as this is annoying. Thanks in advance as always.

The neutral switch (which is a bit of a pain to get to) gets corroded at the terminal.
It is down there beside the alternator and a bit tough to get a socket on it.
I bet if you clean the terminal and wire connector it will probably fix your problem.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

This all started happening after I lubricated the kickstand last fall.

Maybe it just isn't staying in the full up position now that you lubricated it. Maybe because it is moving freely now it is not staying all the way up in the parked position. Maybe the springs are stretched and not holding it up. I think that there is one spring inside of another. Maybe one is broken. After lubricating it there is less resistance to help hold it in the full up position, and if there is anything amiss with the springs it might be falling down enough to activate the switch now that it moves more easily.

 

[Slydynbye]

I would check the connectors at the sidestand first, clean and re-attach while checking for a loose connector.
The light issue sound a little like the Clutch diode so that might need replacement.
Here is a link http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=7420.msg67132#msg67132

 

[Ron]

Maybe it just isn't staying in the full up position now that you lubricated it. Maybe because it is moving freely now it is not staying all the way up in the parked position. Maybe the springs are stretched and not holding it up. I think that there is one spring inside of another. Maybe one is broken. After lubricating it there is less resistance to help hold it in the full up position, and if there is anything amiss with the springs it might be falling down enough to activate the switch now that it moves more easily.

My kickstand has to drop to about 45° for the switch to activate.

 

[PmodelinUS]

I briefly looked at it today. Is supposed to be in the ,40s tomorrow and sunny so I plan to strip it down and dig into it in the morning. Thanks for the ideas I'll let you know what I find.

 

[PmodelinUS]

Ok so how the he double hockey sticks are you supposed to get at the neutral safety switch nut. I have a part of the frame hindering access and even if I could I couldn't get in there with my fingers.


So am I correct in if I remove the tank I should have better access?

 

[Uncle Phil]

If you are talking about down there by the alternator, it's the sensor that screws into the block - no locking nut.


I don't remember the socket size It's a 14mm (I just found one in my spares) and it was a royal pain in the anatomy to get to and lots of threads!
An alternator bolt blocks easy access to it.
I may have had to use an open end wrench to finally get it in and out.
Because of where it is located, it's an easy 'target' for corrosion at the terminal end.

 

[Uncle Phil]

So am I correct in if I remove the tank I should have better access?

IIRC, removing the tank does let you at least see what you are trying to get at.

 

[PmodelinUS]

I said I'm just gonna remove the tank since I have other maintenance as well. Soo much easier also found the cause of the neutral light issue. The wire was worn until it broke in two. They wedged it under a bolt head. Genius. Some quick minor electrical work and all is solved. Btw the 15 mins to take out the tank and put it back in well worth it. Also did the throttle cables they were sticking. After a throught cleaning and lubrication it's still sticking. Can anyone say new cables. Next I still need to replace the clutch slave cylinder as I have tried the other options for a clutch grabbing only at the end. With just over 68 k I sure hope the clutch isn't shot. Also along the way over the next week is fixing my heated grips and adding a USB c so I can plug in my phone. A good scrub down and hope I'm on the road next week. So I'm sure I'll be on here asking questions . Thanks again everyone for the feedback.

 

[Uncle Phil]

On replacing the clutch slave cylinder, I've used the Oberon replacement and it works quite well.
Also you do not have to remove the right side exhaust header to get that pesky bolt out.
Just a little gentle 'persuasion' on the header and you can get enough clearance to remove the bolt.