Just replaced steering head bearings w/tapered and now the fork won't lock

[barrysegal]

I just replaced the roller bearings in the steering head with tapered bearings and once I was done I tested it and everything appeared to work correctly, but then I noticed that the fork lock will not engage, which worked prior to the bearing replacement. When I took apart the handlebars and removed the top bridge the pin works without any friction. When I install the bridge and hand tighten the stem nut it still works but appears to slightly rub angainst the opening in the frame. Once I tighten the stem nut to 76 ft lbs I can no longer engage the fork lock.
When I replaced the steering stem bearings I verified that the races had bottomed out. When I reinstalled and set the preload I hand tightened the bearings and then went a bit past hand tight until the steering felt a bit too tight. I then backed off the tightness slightly and moved the fork lock to lock multiple times and then installed the locknut, top bridge and steering nut. I wonder if I need to sock down the adjusting nut and then back it off instead of just slightly going over the neutral tension.
Please help. Not sure what else to do.

Thanks in advance!

Barry

 

[dduelin]

What is your final foot/lb pull torque value? I never use my fork lock so I just went outside to check mine and was relieved to see it works normally. I replaced with tapered bearings a few thousand miles ago.

 

[barrysegal]

when you set the preload did you initially sock down the locknut and then back it off and reset it to a more neutral feel? What ft lbs did you use to adjust the preload? From everything that I read you should be able to move the handlebars off center and it should almost fall from side to side.

 

[dduelin]

I tightened the adjustment nut tight, turned the forks side to side a few times then backed off about a quarter turn. After replacing the top bridge, the handlebars, and everything I rode the bike several hundred miles. The bars fell to either side easy. I did not have a scale to measure the amount of pull as outlined in the Service Manual. A few days later I took a fish scale to measure the amount of pull required to move the forks off center. (Service Manual 15-43, 2.14 to 3.20 lbs). The initial values were under 2 lbs and they will vary on each side due to the wiring harness on the left side and the other cables. I took the bars and top bridge back off and tightened the adjustment nut 1/4 turn and put it all back together. Now the pull values were within the specs. The bars don't fall as easy as the first effort. Hope this is clear enough to help.

I did not have the special tool to tighten the adjustment nut. I used a punch at 80-90 degrees to one of the notches and a hammer to tap it tight or loose. The torque values of 18 and 11 ft. lbs are for the OEM caged roller bearings. Tapered roller bearings will have different values.

 

[Mark]

I didn't have the lock problem; but, I have done two with tapered bearings.
On the 1st I used 6 ft lbs and feel that it was just a tad light; on the 2nd I used 10 ft lbs and like it a lot better.

 

[barrysegal]

I tightened the stem nut to 30 ft lbs and then backed it off, readjusted and checked again and the pin to lock the fork doesn't engage. The strange thing is that when I take the stem nut off and lift the top bridge about 1/8" I can engage the fork lock w/out any issues. This makes me believe that the geometry has changed and that the height of the triple trees with the new bearings are not where the old ball bearings were sitting.
If the bearings were designed to the exact Honda ST1300 specs then everything should line up correctly.
I plan to call the bearing company on Monday but if you have any suggestions or theories please let me know.

Thanks again for replying!

Barry

 

[barrysegal]

I contacted the folks at CBR Bearings and they were baffled that the fork lock wouldn't engage after replacing the ball bearings with their tapered bearings. After a lengthy discussion it was determined that the quick fix would be to add a shim above the lock nut and below the top bridge. I purchased a pair of electrical reducers (1" to 3/4") and added them, torqued the steering stem nut to the specified 76 ft lbs and the fork lock lined up and locked as it was designed to do. This does not affect the geometry of the steering assembly so that is why I decided to move forward and resolve this bizarre issue. It just goes to show that you never know what to expect and when the unexpected occurs just regroup and then move forward.
Thanks everyone for your support.

Barry

 

[stoker]

Does anyone have the part numbers for the tapered roller bearing sets for st1100?