Kind of an answer as well as a question regarding high beam LEDs

[Erdoc48]

I installed LEDs in both ST’s (and the scooter) some time ago- the 2000 has been fine but on the 94, I noticed the high beams on both sides didn’t work, and if I switched to high beams, I had no headlights at all. This has been going on for some time, maybe the past 6 months if not longer- sometimes they’ll come on and a minute or 2 later, they’re out again as well as the indicator light on the dash. So, I got accustomed to just ride with the low beams and installed a couple of cheap bullet lights (for some extra visibility to other drivers):



Still, as many here would do, I had a decent weather day in the garage (with the AC on) and wanted to seek out why they weren’t working- I checked the switch (I have a spare and tore into the bike to connect it (but not on the handlebar) and same thing happened (no High beams). I then checked the 3 relays (2 for the headlight and one I assume for main engine start- sounds like a rocket launch). They checked out fine, but still, no highbeam. Also checked voltage to the light via the harness when the highbeam switch was on- no dice. The last thing I checked was the fuse (likely should have checked it first)- fuse was not broken/blown, but I did put some dielectric in there when I had an issue with the fan not coming on due to corrosion on the fuse some time ago (put the grease on all the fuse contacts, maybe too much so)- today, I sprayed some QD contact cleaner at those 2 fuses (high first) and cleaned all grease off the fuse- SUCCESS!!!!. Then I cleaned the low beam. Now I have high and lows working as they should. So I asked myself ‘Self, is it possible to use too much grease on a low current draw item??’ I guess the answer is possibly…

I then looked up a YT video to see if anyone else had this issue, and here’s what I found:

I just don’t know, maybe it’s a happy accident that it works again- we’ll have to wait and see. What I also did (really didn’t want to) is pull all the ABS/TCS fuses as well as the dash bulbs for ABS/TCS- it has been a problematic system earlier after I bought the bike back in 2014- not sure why, but right after starting, I get the flashing ABS light- hitting the warning light disable has stopped it in the past, but the left side of the ABS light stays illuminated and at times, it looks like Christmas lights up there with TCS off, ABS flashing and TCS flashing as well- I can’t seem to pin it down and parts are unavailable whatever the cause (I have done diagnostics via the service manual and I have had a #2 fault, then a #3 fault, then others as well, so I don’t know if the whole ECU is shot or not- while I) own it, it’ll remain a non ABS bike I guess but it brakes normally, and I’m mostly a fair weather rider anyway.

I will plan to swap out the steering head bearings next- likely next week depending on how hot it is in the garage.

 

[DannoXYZ]

Awesome job troubleshooting and fixing high-beam circuit!

Yeah, usually working top-down is faster since most problems are upstream. So you applied dielectric grease earlier when there was already corrosion on fuse and socket? In which case, grease just prevents further corrosion but does nothing for existing issue?

I like to use this stuff on all my electrics: fuse sockets, connector terminals and switch-contacts. Cleans off existing corrosion, seals off moisture and future corrosion, and is conductive!

Amazon.com

 

[Erdoc48]

I had an issue with the fan not coming on, so that fuse had some corrosion on it- I sanded them all, then thought I should replace them (now 29 year old bike), and thought, why not dielectric? The contacts in the fuse panel are nice and shiny- the fuses prior to replacement were kind of gray/ black and dull. Problem was I probably used too much such that the blades of the fuse never pushed the grease out of the way and then insulated, just insulated the blade from the contact. I’m not that bright- it was kind of a Eureka moment and thought what else do I have to lose by trying.

I like that lube in the amazon link- seems like a much better idea than dielectric grease

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Dielectric grease is intended to be applied to the connector to prevent moisture from getting in and to the terminals. It is not intended to be applied on the terminals. Most of the time people get away with doing this because the terminals scrape the grease away as they slide in to each other. Sometimes, as you found out, they don't. This would lead me to check to make sure that the terminals in the fuse block are gripping the fuse conductors sufficiently tight.

 

[jfheath]

Thanks for posting the headlight stuff. Nothing more to add to replies already given.

ABS stuff. Check the fluid level in the reservoirs. If too full, they can cause the ABS faults and/or fuses to blow. I have a theory as to how that happens, but I know from experience that it does.

Check the sensors on each wheel have the correct air gap and that there are nothing attached to the surface -eg wire brush strands.

After that, this may help - written from experience with a 2000 model. I don't know if it applies to yours. It may.

Article [11] - ST1100 - ABS Fault Finding | ST1100 Articles

Diagnosing a fault reported by the ECU on a Honda ST1100AY. ABSII ABS/CBS/TCS This information is taken from my own website - I wrote it up at the time - I am just revisiting it 13 years later. ABS The ABS is brilliant - it works. It gives a pulsing sensation through the brake levers -...

www.st-owners.com

 

[ST Gui]

So I asked myself ‘Self, is it possible to use too much grease on a low current draw item??’

I posit that it being dielectric grease is not the issue – any grease in excess would have caused the same issue.

A possible exception would be some grease with a high enough conductive content to pass the current of a low voltage circuit. Barring that another exception might be for an extremely sensitive electronic circuit. There are a few components that might qualify in STs.

Maybe one day I'll STick leads from a 12V bulb (Incan and LED) from and bike battery into some grease samples and see if it will light. I suppose a DMM would show some conductivity in non-dielectric grease but enough to be recommended in place of it? I think not but haven't tested that position.

 

[SMSW]

Dielectric grease is an INSULATOR. That's what dielectric means. Deoxit, mentioned by @DannoXYZ is good stuff. I'll let you think about where dielectric grease should and should not go. Hint - reread @Andrew Shadow's post.

 

[ST Gui]

Dielectric grease is an INSULATOR.

That does not alter anything I said. Reread my post and you'd understand. Have a think on that.