The solution is buying T adapters or finding male/female connector pairs and making them.
Lights on bags
- Thread starter RichKat
- Start date
As with any mod much it's all in the quality of the work done to make the mod. There's no doubt in my mind that a harness can be cut (particularly in low current applications) with no impairment of reliability or longevity. A pedant might argue that adds "additional points of failure".
But so does introducing a T-adapter harness whether commercial or DIY. It's main advantage is in removing a farkle and restoring the harness to factory (or previous condition). That's not without value.
The desire for instant gratification of a farkle/mod and using quick and dirty shade tree installation is the bane of modification mania. People who take that approach and don't tidy up soon after are asking for problems. Same with depending on unreliable connectors in the first place. Scotchlok connectors are a good example. Quick simple done. But they can fail in a number of circumstances. Posi-Taps can be infinitely more reliable but still (to my mind) are really a temporary option. Sure — violation of a pristine harness is something a lot of us would like to avoid. Sometimes I just gotta say *****.
You are correct. I simply prefer less permanent modifications.
If you cut a ring with a wire stripper in the insulation as if your going to strip the wire ( without cutting the wire). Take a lighter and heat (not burn) the insulation and it can be pulled back from the cut spot while it is still warm, That way you don't have to cut wire to tap into oem wiring
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Use an automatic wire stripper. They simply displace the insulation leaving a section of wire uncovered and undamaged. Much easier.
Don't buy the cheapest one you can find however, They sometimes damage the wire whereas a quality one does not.
Katapult® Wire Stripper and Cutter for Solid and Stranded Wire - 11063W | Klein Tools
Klein Tools' Katapult® Solid and Stranded Wire Stripper / Cutter has a built-in cutting hole to cleanly cut 8-20 AWG solid and 10-22 AWG stranded wire, while the stripping head allows you to easily grip and strip just by squeezing the handle. Made of cast alloy with a heavy-duty Ecoat finish for...
yes, you are right, but heating the insulation and sliding it back reveals a larger section of wire so it can be soldered. Then use a brush on insulation or shrink tube to seal out the moisture.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
The automatic strippers that I use bare anywhere from 1/2" to 1" of wire depending on which one. That has always been plenty of room to solder on a connection.
It was a suggestion for the benefit of those who may not be familiar with this type of tool. Your method works for you and that is all that counts.
It was a suggestion for the benefit of those who may not be familiar with this type of tool. Your method works for you and that is all that counts.
And a tip o' the hat to that.