Thinking of lowering my st1300, any thoughts on this would be great, ground clearance- handling ect. short legs in New Jersey.
Lowering st1300
- Thread starter A.raia
- Start date
I lowered my 1300, yesterday, using a Hagon shock built to lower the bike 1". I bought the shock but the work was done by Walt at Advance Cycle in Mt. Clemens, MI. I had already installed a custom seat built by Mad Cow Custom Leather that got me down some, but not enough, so I opted to change the shock. I was just tired of being on tip toe too often, especially in stop-and-go traffic. I have about a 30" inseam. The installation went well but was a little more complicated than the service manual would have you believe. The manual tells you removing two panels will get you to the shock, but we found that the battery had to come out to get clearance and the only access to the nut locking the top bolt came by pulling up the fuel tank. I bought the Hagon shock with a preload adjuster and that replaced the old one with no problem. The bolt pattern on the new adjuster was the same as the bracket already on the bike. You can do the job yourself, but it's definitely a two man job and it took more socket extensions, etc., than I have.
Riding the twenty miles back from Walt's to home and riding this morning gave me no indication that the handling was in any way negatively affected. In fact, the back end was a little stiffer and seemed more positive, not drifting around so much in turns as the old shock. Of course, I'd dialed out most of the pre-load adjustment in the old one to get the bike down and that had softened the ride a little too much. In fact, on the way back yesterday, I ran into a traffic jam because it was late in the day and it was much easier inching the bike along wih my new ability to get my feet down flat.
There has been some negative feeback on the Hagon shock from a couple of years ago based mainly on the experience of 1 person who found some quality problems with the shock on an ST. Hagon might have had some issues with quality in a batch of shocks back then. I figured that any manufacturer can have issues with a product at one time or another and they do honor their warranties.
We will see how it goes after a Summer and Fall of riding.
Riding the twenty miles back from Walt's to home and riding this morning gave me no indication that the handling was in any way negatively affected. In fact, the back end was a little stiffer and seemed more positive, not drifting around so much in turns as the old shock. Of course, I'd dialed out most of the pre-load adjustment in the old one to get the bike down and that had softened the ride a little too much. In fact, on the way back yesterday, I ran into a traffic jam because it was late in the day and it was much easier inching the bike along wih my new ability to get my feet down flat.
There has been some negative feeback on the Hagon shock from a couple of years ago based mainly on the experience of 1 person who found some quality problems with the shock on an ST. Hagon might have had some issues with quality in a batch of shocks back then. I figured that any manufacturer can have issues with a product at one time or another and they do honor their warranties.
We will see how it goes after a Summer and Fall of riding.
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Probably steers a bit slower now, or did you lower the forks too?
I have had the shock out several times by myself and I can't recall having to remove the battery. Maybe I did once and not the other times - I don't remember. It helps to have a piece of wood under the center stand so the wheel drops down further and gives a bit more room to work the shock down and out of the space between the swing arm and battery shelf. If you use a box end wrench with a piece of tape holding the nut there is no need to move or lift the gas tank.
I have had the shock out several times by myself and I can't recall having to remove the battery. Maybe I did once and not the other times - I don't remember. It helps to have a piece of wood under the center stand so the wheel drops down further and gives a bit more room to work the shock down and out of the space between the swing arm and battery shelf. If you use a box end wrench with a piece of tape holding the nut there is no need to move or lift the gas tank.
I did not lower the forks at this time and I haven't seen any adverse handling characteristics. I talked to a couple of shops that customize bikes, mainly for racing, and it was recommended that I drop the forks no more than 3/8". That doesn't seem to be a significant drop, in my mind. Lifting the gas tank is not a major problem and I don't see how you can get a wrench in there to properly hold the nut without doing it. In any case, how you do it really isn't a big deal. The point I was trying to make is that the manual makes it sound easier than what it is, but it still isn't all that hard.
RONST1300
STOC # 8616
Hay Marv, sounds good. Did it lower the bike an inch at the pegs or in the rear? Or was it a total 1" when you were done from the saddle to the ground?
Ron
Ron
I wouldn't lower this bike. You are going to sacrifice ground clearance and the handling will be negatively effected. Add a passenger and cargo and the rear end will be too low.
I just put a Penske 8983 Shock in my bike and found that the stock shock measured 326mm eye to eye. This was verified by a call to Traxxion. The shock was setup by Traxxion at 323mm. This effectively dropped the rear end enough to notice a heavier feel to steering and on my first decreasing radius curve the peg feeler was ground all the way down. I have the eye to eye length at around 331mm. My rear tire drags on the ground when the bike is on the center stand.
I suppose if you ride the bike like a cruiser you could drop the bike an inch in the rear. Otherwise, you will definitely notice a negative difference.
I just put a Penske 8983 Shock in my bike and found that the stock shock measured 326mm eye to eye. This was verified by a call to Traxxion. The shock was setup by Traxxion at 323mm. This effectively dropped the rear end enough to notice a heavier feel to steering and on my first decreasing radius curve the peg feeler was ground all the way down. I have the eye to eye length at around 331mm. My rear tire drags on the ground when the bike is on the center stand.
I suppose if you ride the bike like a cruiser you could drop the bike an inch in the rear. Otherwise, you will definitely notice a negative difference.
Daytona M-Star GTX boots raise you up about an inch. I'm going to try this before I lower the suspension. They cost $450; about $100 more than similar boots.
Switching to a 60 series tire (on a ST1100) also lowers the rider 1/2 inch, but it lowers the front and rear equally.
Switching to a 60 series tire (on a ST1100) also lowers the rider 1/2 inch, but it lowers the front and rear equally.
Assuming you don't have a preload adjuster. The Hagon I bought has one and I can adjust for extra weigh to a point. The shock comes set up with a spring based on the load you plan on using on the bike and I had to supply my weight and the estimated weight of any extras when I ordered the shock. All of that is taken into consideration when the shock is built. I weigh 180 lbs. and I estimated a max of another 100 lbs. at most that I might carry. I never carry a passenger. I've customized the bike for me and my needs.
Would I scrap the pegs sooner? Sure, but I don't tend to ride to the extreme so it isn't likely to happen. I bought this bike because of the way it gets me off my spine when I'm sitting and I need to do that. The rest of the customization has been done to make the bike safer and more comfortable for my riding style. I've put about 3,000 miles on the bike since I changed the shock and, frankly, I see nothing negative in the handling characteristics. But that's me.
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@Pixguy
If the bike performs for you, then that is what counts. Balancing comfort and performance is important. However, you will be changing the geometry of the bike and the ground clearance in a way that will effect handling negatively.
If the bike performs for you, then that is what counts. Balancing comfort and performance is important. However, you will be changing the geometry of the bike and the ground clearance in a way that will effect handling negatively.
Actually it is more like an inch and three quarters. I have measured myself with, and without the boots, and they really help. The boots need a little break in before they zip up without some help. It may be me though with my fat legs. Great boots.
I am new to the ST. I have been riding concours's for about 9 years. I have the exact opposite problem. I have never had my feet drag while cornering before, but seem to do it all the time on the ST. I have an '07 1300. I checked and it has not been lowered. Anyone with any suggestions on how to prevent this. I am trying to find a solution before I have to sell this bike.