My first valve check,help!

SuperTanker

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I have all the plastic off to fix a coolant leak and thought it would be a good time to do the valve inspection/adjustment. I am up in northern Wisconsin buried in snow. Is there anyone in Wisconsin that would like to drive up on a saturday to show me how to do this check or adjustment that has done it before? Reading the valve adjustment forum makes this job seem very scary as I have never done a valve check on any vehicle.
 

tlartist

Tom Laux
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I live in Madison, but that is just a little too far for me. If you need help I can certainly provide it remotely. You must get a shop manual before starting this work. Also, make sure you have all of this: https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54689, or at least the stuff for the valve inspection, if you don't mind having your bike apart for a bit.

I can certainly help you through this. If interested just e-mail: tomrlaux@gmail.com.

The inspection is not too hard. You just need to take your time with removing the parts, and keep track of what you took off. Really not that bad at all. The left side adjustment is also not all that bad. The right side is a real PITA, so hopefully you don't have anything out of spec. If you already have the plastic off you really can't mess up anything by trying to do the valve check.

Well, I guess you can always mess up something, but the risk is pretty low. Worth a shot to save up to $600 every 16,000 miles.
 
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SuperTanker

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Good morning Tom. I am waiting for some new Breeze hose clamps I ordered on Sunday and a new thermostat and as soon as I get that part of the St back together I will attempt the inspection on the valves. I'll stay in touch with you as I progress in the next couple weeks. I need to get some of the supplies you mentioned in your report. I take it that you can reuse the cover gasket. Can I reuse all the other o-rings mentioned? Did you take out the spark plugs first?
thanks again.
Al
 
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SuperTanker

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By the way Tom. I work for Oil Equipment Company and they are located on Lien Ave. near the East Town Mall. My office is in Green Bay but I do get into the office from time to time.
Al
 
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SuperTanker

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Is everything you do in this inspection in metric? I see that your micrometer is in inches. Are the shims in inches? Is the feeler gauge in mm or do you use inches? As an example: the intake specs are 0.16 + 0r- 0.03 and you can be
(0.006 + or - 0.001 in. I guess I am confused with that part. Is it metric or is it inches? Are the shims mm or in inches? Once I get over that hurtle I'll be ok.
thanks
Al
 

Mellow

Joe
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I did everything in mm. The hardest part was finding the feeler gauges but I just happened to have some that worked. The shims I've seen have mm on them, luckily I didn't need any adjustment... I had a couple exhaust valves that were on the tight side of the limits but still in spec so the 32k will let me know if they move at all.

You can reuse the valve cover gasket, just make sure it's clean and not pinched when you put it back on and obviously, inspect it when you get it off to make sure it looks okay.
 
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SuperTanker

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Thank you, Joe. This forum is outstanding. I guess what I really like about it is the fact that everyone here is very helpful and not demeaning and by that I mean it would be easy to for someone to actually call someone stupid for not knowing something that should be a no brainer. I for one am very appreciative of everyones help here.
Al
 

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Joe
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Thank you, Joe. This forum is outstanding. I guess what I really like about it is the fact that everyone here is very helpful and not demeaning and by that I mean it would be easy to for someone to actually call someone stupid for not knowing something that should be a no brainer. I for one am very appreciative of everyones help here.
Al
No prob Al... Life is short and there's no reason to waste it calling people names. Every one of us has been in the situation where we are doing something for the first time and having others provide a helping hand or comments vs attitude creates a friendly environment... THAT is what this place is about.
 
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... Did you take out the spark plugs first?
thanks again.
Al
Al,
you may want to leave the spark plugs in place to eliminate the risk of accidentally dropping anything into a cylinder. However, you definitely want to loosen them all a turn or so to avoid trying to turn the crankshaft by hand against compression, or having it "rock" back away from the timing mark alignment when you release the wrench that you're using to rotate the crank. Just don't forget to torque them back down before you try to fire up the motor after your valve check :D
 

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Joe
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Al,
you may want to leave the spark plugs in place to eliminate the risk of accidentally dropping anything into a cylinder. However, you definitely want to loosen them all a turn or so to avoid trying to turn the crankshaft by hand against compression, or having it "rock" back away from the timing mark alignment when you release the wrench that you're using to rotate the crank. Just don't forget to torque them back down before you try to fire up the motor after your valve check :D
I didn't touch my plugs... other than pull the plug wires of course. I was able to turn the crank without any issues...

Make sure the bike is in Neutral.
 

Blrfl

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Is everything you do in this inspection in metric? I see that your micrometer is in inches. Are the shims in inches? Is the feeler gauge in mm or do you use inches?
You can do it in either, you just have to do some conversions if you have one measurement in hand and need the other. Multiply inches by 25.4 to get millimeters, divide millimeters by 25.4 to get inches.

My feeler set is incremented in inches (but has metric markings), so I tend to take the measurements and record them that way. The shim kit is metric. I have a metric micrometer, but it's not in the kit because my wife also uses it. At some point I'll spring for a cheap metric one and toss it in the kit.

ETA: There's no need to remove anything other than the valve cover and the two caps on the front of the engine to do the valve check. Leave the spark plugs alone.

--Mark
 
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tlartist

Tom Laux
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If you don't damage the gasket you can reuse it. I tried to reuse the orings from inspection and crank hole and had to get new ones because they leaked oil.

Regarding the whole metric thing, to do the inspection it is not really much of an issue. The feeler guages I used had both metric and inch on there so you can use whatever you want.

If you get to the point that you need to swap shims there is a handy dandy chart someone made up that I used for the conversion and to keep track of the measurements and adjustment. If when you do the check and find things out of sync I can either email it or you can search the site.
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Are you removing the front wheel?

If not you need a mirror and flashlight to see the timing marks in the inspection hole. And some patience. It's easy to do if you don't have to rush it.
 

tlartist

Tom Laux
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Don't remove the front wheel. Use the mirror and flashlight. Personally the next time I do this I won't use the view hole. You can just use the lines on the cams to make sure you are where you need to be. Really up to you and what makes you the most comfortable.
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Just to state the obvious, valve checks are a two-part procedure in which you hope not to have to do Part 2--changing shims. Checking clearances is straightforward when done by the book, but changing shims is a whole new ballgame and if you're new at it, you should probably have a live tutor or let a dealer do it, as screw-ups with mis-timed cams can get expensive.
 

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I have all the plastic off to fix a coolant leak and thought it would be a good time to do the valve inspection/adjustment. I am up in northern Wisconsin buried in snow. Is there anyone in Wisconsin that would like to drive up on a saturday to show me how to do this check or adjustment that has done it before? Reading the valve adjustment forum makes this job seem very scary as I have never done a valve check on any vehicle.
I can give you a hand if you still need it. I just got done checking mine again yesterday. This was the third time and as expected, no significant changes at all.

Send me a PM.
 
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I just did my first valve inspection this morning at 16,000 miles. 2005 St 1300. All of the clearances were dead-on with the exception of the #3 front intake, which was .007 inches, although still in specs. I also decided to put on new valve cover gaskets and used Hondabond HT to seal them at the half-circles and right next to the half-circles. I won't start the bike for a couple of days to make sure the Hondabond HT seals and dries. Not difficult, just time consuming. A great learning experience and a great way to save a lot of money......
 

Blrfl

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I won't start the bike for a couple of days to make sure the Hondabond HT seals and dries.
No need. The semicircles already have a little flap on the side facing the camshafts that keeps the oil out, and that spot isn't under pressure. The amount of time it takes to put the Tupperware back on is more than sufficient.

--Mark
 
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