My "out of the mothballs" 1994: how stupid is it to ride without a belt change?

[whipit1k]

My fixed up 1994 ABS model has 54K miles. It was apparently owned by an old time STOC member from connecticut, but has not been ridden much in years. posssibly close to ten years.

I am thinking it is very likely that the timing belt is original, and my initial investigation leads me to believe that the belt change is not quite as quick and easy as a goldwing belt set change.

I have also seen some comments on the topic leading me to believe that breakage of the ST timing belt is all but unheard of, but this sucker may be coming up on 25 yrs old....

Should I replace it immediately? probably.

I am thinking about taking this bike on a several thousand mile trip soon, since I am so pleased with the way it turned out (I bought it as a filthy non running bike with a pile of parts and ziplock bag of bolts)

Im just wondering if it is completely idiotic to press my luck

 

[Bush]

Remove the left side cam reduction cover, the spark plugs, the timing inspection cover and rotate the engine clockwise by hand to get a look at the entire belt and then decide if it looks OK to you. 54K is not a lot of miles on that belt and the time factor is a debatable issue.

 

[SMSW]

I'm sure there will be some guys who say 'ride it' and never look back. And others, like me, who will tell you to change it. A broken timing belt will likely result in bent valves (not always), and an expensive and complicated repair. In the end it depends on your own mind set. You will get a lot of help here on what to do should you decide to change it yourself. I'd recommend you pick up a service manual.

Should you decide to not change the belt, do you have a backup in case it breaks while you are on your trip?

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

I’d just go ride. The belt failures I know of over the last 20 years were idler and tensioner bearing related. On high mileage STs. The belt then rubs on things and frays, making a birds nest of fibers that eventually cause the failure. So... if you’re concerned, even at that mileage, pull the inspection cover (and the reduction holder cover over the driven pulley if you’re really into it) and have a look. No fraying, no bearing noise... GO RIDE!. JMHO

Edit: I finally replaced my idler and tensioner pulleys at 190K (second timing belt and first water pump R&R) and they all looked and felt just like the new ones... YMMV I see you got two replies while I ‘composed’ mine.

John

 

[wjbertrand]

Should you decide to not change the belt, do you have a backup in case it breaks while you are on your trip?

Changing a timing belt is not exactly a road side repair, besides the engine is an interference design so if it snaps you're almost guaranteed to have mechanical damage in the form of bent valves anyway. Sometimes all 16 of them.

Having said that, If the current belt looks ok, no shredding or cracking, you can probably change it at your leisure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[dwalby]

the fact that it hasn't been ridden in possibly 10 years is my biggest concern, I wonder what that may have done to the coolant inside and the water pump bearing while it sat. If the bearing were compromised and began making noise during your long trip, that would be a problem. I wouldn't worry about the timing belt at all. I let my coolant go too long between changes, and my WP bearing failed early, at just under 100k miles, so that's the reason I'm thinking about that. Your bike has half that mileage, so you have that going in your favor.

 

[Bush]

So... if you’re concerned, even at that mileage, pull the inspection cover

Hi John,

I take it you would be referring to the Main Cover, as named on the micro fiche page, part of which sits under the clutch cover. My question is, can you actually get at the bolts to remove that cover without pulling the rad? My bike has its clothes on right now, so I can't get a good look in there. I have always removed the cam reduction cover, when the clothes were off, to look at the belt.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

From the Honda Service Manual: the Timing Hole Cover, on the bottom of the Timing Belt Cover, in front of the crankshaft Drive Pulley. Remove juST the Lower Fairing and “thar she be,” Forest.

 

[Bush]

The Timing Hole Cover, on the bottom of the Timing Belt Cover, in front of the crankshaft pulley. Remove juST the Lower Fairing and “thar she be.”

Oh yeah, there is that, but it is so small, I don't think you get as good a look at the belt as from removing the reduction cover, but, of course, more plastic needs to come off. Thanks.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

From the reports, the bird’s nest accumulates at the Drive Pulley. I did mention the Reduction Holder Cover above. I’ve pulled them to check timing marks on the Driven Pulleys... a PITA but it can be done without removing too much else. Don’t drop those screws!

John

 

[whipit1k]

I will take a peek at the belt and decide

 

[Oldbikefixr]

I did a low mile 1991 20 year garage queen. I included a timing belt change, mostly because of a bad experience with another model...time related failure. The old belt looked as good as the new replacement, pulleys were sound, not even any residue behind the cover. It could have gone the recommended 90,000 miles in my opinion. But....peace of mind, you know.

 

[Ron]

I have been around the 1100's since '99. The only belt failures I've heard of were a couple like John O. mentioned. I put about 225 K miles on one belt and related parts. The bike was run several hundred miles every week plus touring trips. Replacing or not replacing is up to the owner. How do you feel about the odds? How lucky do you feel? Who knows why Honda says change at 90K miles? Did the engineers or the lawyers pick that number? If it lets go, the results are catastrophic for the motor and maybe the rider. I would say change it considering the work all ready done. The belt isn't that expensive and that's about the cost, other than time.