Premature Front Tire Wear

[Yaesu]

The front tire (BT020) is ready for a replacement at 4800 miles. It is not cupped. It's just worm down to the point that it should be replaced. I wonder if running a CT on the back is contributing to the fast front tire wear? The new BT-45 should be here today.

 

[RaYzerman]

I have tracked my mileage on tires, and notice no difference CT or not. What does affect mileage is tire pressure, I would say run 40-42 front no less, certainly nothing in the 30's given the weight of your bike.

 

[Igofar]

Preload adjustment can also cause front tire wear. The higher you set your preload, the more pressure your putting on your front tire. I've turned my preload adjust off and got over 10K out of a set of Conti road attacks!

 

[Firstpeke]

I would have to say it is possible that a wider section, particularly squarer section, rear tyre would accentuate front tyre wear, particularly if running a relatively high rear tyre pressure.

The rear will tend to "push" the front tyre into corners, possibly needing a slightly firmer steering input to achieve the turn than before.

This is, of course just my opinion from a tyre viewpoint, certainly in four wheel vehicles, higher rear pressures will tend to promote understeer, whereas low pressures in the rear will accentuate oversteer. Thus, tyre wear is affected.

 

[Mellow]

Several others have been running car tires for many miles so I would think we would have heard "hey, my car tire lasts forever but my front tires now don't last as long as they used to".

So, I have to believe tire pressure or just a bad tire as the reasons for the premature tire wear.

 

[970mike]

Several others have been running car tires for many miles so I would think we would have heard "hey, my car tire lasts forever but my front tires now don't last as long as they used to".

So, I have to believe tire pressure or just a bad tire as the reasons for the premature tire wear.

I think that I will have to blame my right wrist and love of the twisty back roads for my premature tire wear!!

 

[Yaesu]

I just installed the Bridgestone Battlax BT-45 on the front of the ST. It was a tighter fit than the BT020. However it should last a lot longer because of the additional tread depth when new. BT020 = approx. .156", BT45 = approx. .270"

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

was that a BS 020 or a 020F? the 020(non F) doesnt last as long, its a softer compound

 

[barto]

I've turned my preload adjust off

Doesn't that make your bike wallow in the corners? Man, I weigh 240, I've got my pre-load dialed up to 4 (ST1100).

 

[Igofar]

Doesn't that make your bike wallow in the corners? Man, I weigh 240, I've got my pre-load dialed up to 4 (ST1100).

After trying several different settings, this is what I found works for me (and several other forum members who've tried it).
On the ST1300's at least.
I found a couple things...when the preload is jacked up stiff, the bike puts more wear on the front tire, and the bike seems to rise up when taking off and lower back down when slowing down.
I didn't like this hobby horse motion.
I found that by matching my rear shock (some say undersprung) to my front forks, the rise and fall went away, the bike sped up and slowed down while it remained level, etc.
I weight 225 and always have a bunch of stuff in my saddlebags.
I set the damping on (2) full turns out from fully closed (stock setting is (1) full turn out)
Then I make sure the preload adjuster is full of fluid.
Then I turn the preload all the way open (counterclockwise), then start turning it back in (clockwise) until I just start to feel the preload working.
Its at this setting that I leave it (even when riding two up)
For years, bikes didn't have a preload adjuster, and folks did just fine with normal shocks.
The clicks on the preload adjuster are only 1mm per click. so with 7 being the default setting, you can see
Its a very small adjustment. I think mine is set at 4 clicks which is only 2 turns from soft.
My bike does not wallow in the turns, but tracks very well, keeps the rear wheel on the ground at all times, and turns into the corners
better than if the preload was stiff and the rear of the bike raised up (faster steering and nervous feeling)
It also rides very well in the wind on the softer setting.
Folks on the forum will try to convice you that you need springs, shocks, max preload etc.
After trying it both ways, I prefer my way. YMMV
I would suggest filling your preload adjuster if you have one, setting it on soft and just trying it for yourself.
You may find you've been missing a nice ride.
Several other members have tried this setting and were totally surprized at how much they liked it.

 

[Scooter]

Then I make sure the preload adjuster is full of fluid.
Then I turn the preload all the way open (counterclockwise), then start turning it back in (clockwise) until I just start to feel the preload working.
Its at this setting that I leave it (even when riding two up)

Why would you even need to worry about your preload fluid level if your not going to compress the spring at all which is what you are doing, correct?!?

 

[Igofar]

Why would you even need to worry about your preload fluid level if your not going to compress the spring at all which is what you are doing, correct?!?

I'll answer your question with a question....would your preload adjuster feel different between empty and full?
The preload adjuster was designed to have X amount of fluid in it. I'm guessing it would not work as well empty. So I believe the preload adjuster should have the correct amount of fluid regardless of where your setting is at.

 

[dduelin]

I just installed the Bridgestone Battlax BT-45 on the front of the ST. It was a tighter fit than the BT020. However it should last a lot longer because of the additional tread depth when new. BT020 = approx. .156", BT45 = approx. .270"

The thread depth is deeper because it is a tire designed to be mounted on the rear but you know that. The reason front tires have less tread depth is taller tread squirms more and front tires work with higher slip angles than rear tires.

 

[dduelin]

I don't know where the 1 mm per click of preload adjustment comes from but that is not the case with the ST1300 OEM shock. Full range of preload is approximately 10 mm of movement or about 355 lbs of preload across 36 clicks. That is alot of adjustment not to use especially for heavier riders or two up loads. Everybody's expections are different however and whatever works - works.

 

[Dinkie Diesel]

I think dduelin is right. I used to go to the races with my sister's boyfriend many years ago. They raced showroom stock Fiat 124, VW Scirroco, Alfa Romeo, etc. It was common for them to buy a brand new set of tires and have them "shaved." Claiming a tire with too much tread depth wasn't as fast as one with about half the tread.

 

[dduelin]

I think dduelin is right. I used to go to the races with my sister's boyfriend many years ago. They raced showroom stock Fiat 124, VW Scirroco, Alfa Romeo, etc. It was common for them to buy a brand new set of tires and have them "shaved." Claiming a tire with too much tread depth wasn't as fast as one with about half the tread.

The extreme is tires with no tread which is what racing tires eventually went to.

 

[Igofar]

I don't know where the 1 mm per click of preload adjustment comes from but that is not the case with the ST1300 OEM shock. Full range of preload is approximately 10 mm of movement or about 355 lbs of preload across 36 clicks. That is alot of adjustment not to use especially for heavier riders or two up loads. Everybody's expections are different however and whatever works - works.

I stand by my suggestion to try if yourself before you decide. There are several other folks on this forum that have asked for assistance with their shock settings. And once they tried setting the preload and damping two turns out, and to where it just started working, they were very happy with it. Their tires started lasting longer, the hobby horse up and down went away, the throttle jerk and snatch was not as bad, and they kept the settings similar to mine. YMMV.
Perhaps some of those riders who were open minded enough to try it and decide it was better for them, will add their comments.

 

[Scooter]

I'll answer your question with a question....would your preload adjuster feel different between empty and full?
The preload adjuster was designed to have X amount of fluid in it. I'm guessing it would not work as well empty. So I believe the preload adjuster should have the correct amount of fluid regardless of where your setting is at.

You're right that it wouldn't work so well empty however your suggested preload setting is the same as if there was no adjustment available at all so I thought that you could simply streamline your instructions by removing a now unnecessary step...

 

[nhdiesel]

I'll answer your question with a question....would your preload adjuster feel different between empty and full?
The preload adjuster was designed to have X amount of fluid in it. I'm guessing it would not work as well empty. So I believe the preload adjuster should have the correct amount of fluid regardless of where your setting is at.

Its a simple hydraulic piston. Unless you are pushing the piston (in this case, compressing the spring- or adding preload), no fluid is necessary- its not doing a thing. Think of a tractor with a bucket. If you never plan to raise the bucket, and just leave it on the ground, you can drain the whole hydraulic system, and the bucket will stay right on the ground. You only need the fluid to raise it up.

But I would still make sure the fluid is full, as some day you might want to adjust the preload. As a 300 lb. rider (well, I *was*, the last time I rode), which would equate to a thin rider and passenger, I couldn't imagine riding with no preload. Even with my old preload fluid (not full), I noticed a big difference between no preload and increasing it. I'm excited to see how it rides and handles now that I changed the fluid, and have a full range of movement!

Jim