Question on damper AND cartridge forks.

[mtnpat]

96 ST1100 ABS, linked brake model.

Question on the fork on my bike. I have them off the bike just haven't opened up yet so I'm not positive on the internals.

In taking each fork leg (before rebuild) and manually compressing it, I find that the left (drivers side) fork leg has heavy rebound and compression damping, the right (passenger side) leg has ZERO damping.

Is this correct, how it should be?

Reading my Clymer manual it says one leg has a damping rod, the other is a cartridge style. They both are referred to as damping assemblies at some point in the manual (or I think they do, its confusing me).

Just wondering if one leg has ALL the damping, the other only spring? As I said I have them off the bike and hope to rebuild them soon (I have a box full of OEM Honda parts, Sonic springs and 1 qt of PJ1 10w fork oil).

Thanks

-mtnpat

 

[vinny]

The left side has the compression dampening, the right side has the rebound dampening. Both sides have springs to support the weight of the bike and the rider. If you have 30+ thousand miles on the bike, you want to check the Teflon lining on the slider bushings and the guide bushing for wear. You will also need slightly more than a quart of fork oil to complete the job. The right side fork may require special tools to disassemble and reassemble due to the dampening rod.

 

[Mr. BR]

Those are good questions, mtnpat. I've done a bunch of work to my '95 this summer and the front forks are next in line (and I've had similar questions). My forks are not leaking and I changed the oil once before but I'm still getting a clunk upon full extension, like when I go over a parking lot speed bump. So... the forks will be coming off some time soon and I'll likely replace the seals and the bushing etc. I may pick up a 41mm (?) tool to re-install the seals but I'm not sure that is absolutely necessary. I need to read through the manual again.
Mr. BR

 

[vinny]

One of the handiest tools you may need is a device to hold the damper rod extended while installing the keeper clip. It's a tricky job with out the tool because you must hold the damper rod extended while trying to compress the spring... then install the clip. Don't know about most folks, but I run out of hands pretty quick... the tool helps, but a third hand is almost necessary.
There is a loaner kit for rebuilding the forks... contact John O to see if it's available.

 

[mtnpat]

I checked again, my fork must be strange (or broken, ha ha) because the left side has both compression and rebound damping, the right side 'nothing but spring', total pogo-stick action.

As soon as I open them up (I know, I know) I will post up what I find. Oh and the bike has 75k miles on it, I plan on a total rebuild. Thanks for the tips.

I just measured the stanchion tubes, they are 43mm on my bike.

-mtnpat

 

[mtnpat]

I'm wondering now if I have somehow lost all or most of the oil in the right leg. I can't see that happening without me noticing though, as the bike is always garage kept, at work and at home. Gotta open it up, soon.

-mtnpat

 

[dwalby]

I may pick up a 41mm (?) tool to re-install the seals but I'm not sure that is absolutely necessary.

I've never used one, so they're not absolutely necessary. I can't comment on if they make the job easier or not. What I've always done is to use the old seal as a driver on the new seal. Use something blunt to tap down on it with a hammer, and it will seat the new seal into place without deforming it. When the new seal seats fully there will be a bit of the old seal protruding above the top of the fork tube. You can then pry the old seal out with a screwdriver.

 

[vinny]

You can fab a seal driver out of a 2" piece of PVC pipe. Take a hack saw or band saw and cut saw kirfs approximately 5 to 6 inches deep in one end of a piece about 16" long. You can then compress the kirfed end to the diameter of the fork tube with a hose clamp or just wrap some duct tape around it to squeeze it. Tap on the other end with a plastic mallet to set the seal. The key is to apply pressure on the entire circumference of the seal at the same time.