Ok, i know i need the race tech springs and valves for the front. On the rear do i re-spring it? send it off to be re-built, buying a better one is out (too much money). So what is a better alternative? Not the cheapest but decent middle of the road. I learned a lot reading but am kinda confused about the rear. Some say just respring it others send it in. My head is spinning. It an 05 ST1300 with 36K and im 250 and ride year round. thanks to all
Questions, Questions
- Thread starter bamamike
- Start date
BTW.. are sonic springs better? i do ride hard at times( thats the point isint it?)
Since many different riders will have many different opinions I suggest you call RT direct and explain your situation to them and then go with the best you can afford. By all accounts they are great to work with.
Watching this thread with interest. (I'm also not a light weight)
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Race Tech has a spring rate calculator on their website to help you choose a spring. If you are going to send the OEM shock to them for a Gold Valve rebuild adding a new spring is an economical upgrade.
http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Honda/ST1300/2004-11
http://racetech.com/ProductSearch/2/Honda/ST1300/2004-11
If you elect to put a new spring on the OEM rear shock, be aware that the stock spring is longer than it appears when mounted. I learned the hard way....its best to remove the shock, remove the spring and measure it for length. Otherwise, you'll be needing a 'preload' adjuster like Earache makes just to take up the 1/2 inch that your replacement spring lacks in total length.
Gunz
Houligan
Good products. Not always prompt with their communication and follow through. On two seperate occasions they promised to send me o-rings, and I've still never received them. It tooks days for them to acknowledge email, and more days for them to respond. I was less than impressed with their instruction sheet.
I had RT redo my rear (rebuild and new spring) and love it. I got the Gold Valve kit and RT springs up front and wish I'd gone with sonic springs and heavier oil. The suspension upgrades are astonishingly good.
fiziks
I brake things.
For the rear. I would first check to see how full your preload adjuster is. Back the knob all the way out, counterclockwise, keeping track of the number of clicks (half-turns). Now start to dial it in, clockwise until you get resistance, keeping track of clicks (half-turns). How far did you turn it in before you felt resistance? How does that compare to the initial setting? If the number of clicks it took to encounter resistance is equal to or greater than the number of clicks you had to back it out, then you had NO preload dialed in to begin with and that may be the problem. On stock brand new bikes, I'm told you'll feel resistance at about 4 to 7 clicks. On a preload adjuster that has been refilled, it should probably only take one to two clicks to feel resistance. With no preload dialed in, you may be bottoming out. There is a great article on this forum on how to refill the oil in the preload adjuster. I did it a few nights ago and it has made a world of difference in the feel and grip of the rear end. There is also a dampening screw you can play with.
Igofar has spent a lot of time dialing in his setup and I think he is closer to your weight than mine. He suggests turning the preload adjuster to four clicks in from feeling resistance (after you have refilled it) and two full turns on the dampening screw (stock setting is one turn). That's probably a good place to start and may even work for you.
Igofar has spent a lot of time dialing in his setup and I think he is closer to your weight than mine. He suggests turning the preload adjuster to four clicks in from feeling resistance (after you have refilled it) and two full turns on the dampening screw (stock setting is one turn). That's probably a good place to start and may even work for you.
- Joined
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If you are 250 it doesn't matter if the preload adjuster takes up in 1 click or 20, the stock spring has too soft of a spring rate to cope with the weight. That is 250 lbs in street clothes. In ATGATT the rider is 280, add a passenger or any cargo and you get the picture. Many riders upgrade the 900 lb oem spring to 12 or 1300 lbs/in spring rate.
If you go thru the motions of measuring static sag and rider sag we find the spring is in the ballpark for riders near 150 lbs. If you don't want to measure the sag on your bike you still find that all of the aftermarket shock suppliers recommend a higher rate spring for suspension upgrades.
If you go thru the motions of measuring static sag and rider sag we find the spring is in the ballpark for riders near 150 lbs. If you don't want to measure the sag on your bike you still find that all of the aftermarket shock suppliers recommend a higher rate spring for suspension upgrades.
the pre load is allthe way up and my sag is still out. I am gonna get race tech to do the re-valving of my rear shock and my front end early next year.
fiziks
I brake things.
Have you added oil to your preload adjuster?
no but i have thought about it . there is a post on how to do that i think.