Rear Brakes without removing the Wheel

[randy the x man]

Hi All.

Looking at the Shop Manual it indicates the replace the rear break pads you press the caliper assy inwards to compress the pistons. Any body got and techniques for this?

It would appear however that doing it this way does not lead to good piston cleaning access?

Thanks
Randy

 

[Mellow]

It can be done and is pretty easy but as you stated, not as easy to clean the pistons so I would suggest removing the rear wheel... just my opinion.

All you have to do is remove the rubber plug on the caliper that covers the pin, then unscrew the pin.. the pads sometimes just drop out.

Here's my article on cleaning the pistons.. many of the first steps apply to replacing the pads.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?101206

 

[st1300r]

+1 on pulling and cleaning. Gives you a chance to inspect the rear bearings, clean the splines and reapply moly paste.

If you just push the pistons back in to make room for the new (thicker) pads the gunk you drive back into the dust seal and hydraulic seal may tend to make the new pads drag since they don't retract as well. You can push the pistons in by hand. iirc you have to push on the two outer ones at the same time.

 

[sennister]

+1000

It adds a little more work but much better option to pull the caliper. I never quite got how people push the piston back in without pulling the caliber.

Sent from my HTC Thunderbolt using Tapatalk.

 

[Mellow]

I never quite got how people push the piston back in without pulling the caliber.

I used to do that with a long screwdriver, worked well before I decided to start cleaning the pistons better.

 

[st1300r]

The hole caliper assy slides, you could just push from the piston side towards the rotor (with the old pads in there) no?

 

[sennister]

The hole caliper assy slides, you could just push from the piston side towards the rotor (with the old pads in there) no?

I guess when I push the piston back I use a big c-clamp and it never looked like I could get it in there. Either way I like to clean the piston.

Sent from my HTC Thunderbolt using Tapatalk.

 

[Woodchuck]

Hi Joe
Great pic's on the caliper's. I need to replace my rear pads and was wondering if you have pic's on removing the rear wheel. If you have any tips on this task would be great.
Thanks Lyle

 

[Mellow]

Hi Joe
Great pic's on the caliper's. I need to replace my rear pads and was wondering if you have pic's on removing the rear wheel. If you have any tips on this task would be great.
Thanks Lyle

I don't but Mark has a nice how-to in the STwiki
http://stwiki.notonthe.net/twiki/bin/view/ST13/RearWheelQuickGuide

Chuck put a great article together on installing the rear wheel here:
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?51824-ST1300-Reinstalling-Rear-Wheel

 

[Igofar]

Hi Joe
Great pic's on the caliper's. I need to replace my rear pads and was wondering if you have pic's on removing the rear wheel. If you have any tips on this task would be great.
Thanks Lyle

You don't need to remove the rear wheel to change the rear pads or clean the calipers.
You simply need to pull the axle to the right enough for the caliper braket to clear it, then after removing the 14mm lower caliper bolt, you can simply lift the entire caliper out, turn it upside down, and clean away
If you would like to remove the rear wheel for more room, spray some penetrating oil on the (4) muffler bolts, loosen them so you can twist the mufflers out and downward, then remove the rear muffler bracket bolts (2 on each side) the larger one is 12mm and the small one is 10mm. Then take a 27mm socket or box end wrench for the axle nut, and a 8mm hex socket to hold the axle and loosen the nut and slide the axle out to the right. This would be a good time to check the driven bearings, wheel bearings, splines with Honda moly 60 paste, replace the pads, put it all back together. Don't forget to tighten the muffler bolts at the pipes, only snug! If you use the OEM manual's torque value you'll bend and destory the thin metal clamps.
I would also suggest flushing and bleeding the rear brake system while your at it.
But thats just me....The flush 'ahh....

 

[Woodchuck]

Thanks Joe. That helps alot. I'll try this on the weekend. I'll just check my tool list first.
Lyle

 

[Woodchuck]

Hay: thats a good tip. The bike was serviced last year when I bought it. All fluids were changed and new tires. I just put new tires on yesterday and the shop said that the rear pads were almost done. They didn't have any in stock. I told them that I'll do it later, not realizing that the rear wheel has to come off. I like your idea to just pull the axle out to clear the bracket. I'll clean the caliper like Joe said.
Thanks Lyle

 

[Woodchuck]

I would like to THANK YOU Guy's for all you help. I removed caliper and cleaned it all up and it looks great. It's all back together now and works (wow!!!!! do thoughs brakes work) oh and yes I did forget to tighten the right side muffler bolts, but remembered just in time. Thanks so muck again and I hope to see you on the road and I'll buy the first round:

Lyle

 

[George]

The hole caliper assy slides, you could just push from the piston side towards the rotor (with the old pads in there) no?

That's how I do it to get just a little clearance when removing the wheel.

Suggest timing it so ya do the brake pads at the same time as a rear tar so the wheel only needs removed once.

 

[st1300r]

Hey I pay'd for the whole pad I'm usin' the whole pad LOL.
There was a shiny brandy new set just set'n there with no name on them at Rulbe's tech day....but I like Bones.
Need to get a full set and front tar on order today.

 

[Igofar]

That's how I do it to get just a little clearance when removing the wheel.

Suggest timing it so ya do the brake pads at the same time as a rear tar so the wheel only needs removed once.

I've done it that way as well. however, I find it much easier, and gives you more wiggle room, to simply pull the hanger pin and let the pads drop out. Now you've got alot of room to move the caliper body. .02