Rear shock removal question

PopJack

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I've read the thread about removing the rear shock. I know this may sound like a stupid question, but here goes:

When the rear tire is removed so that the swing arm is all the way down, is the shock at its extent of travel? In other words, I'm asking if the spring is exerting force on the swing arm, so that I have to worry about getting hurt, or is the shock at full extension so that the spring is being contained by the shock?

From what reading I've done, it appears I have to remove just about everything behind the steering stem to get this thing off, but I'm still reading. (I had to do brakes anyway, so the rear tire and mufflers are removed now.)

Thanks in advance.
 

LetErBuck

Brian Oehlert
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I just installed my new rear shock today. I put in a Progressive Suspension 465-5013 w/RAP adjuster. (like the stock shock).
I did not remove the rear tire or the exhaust. I raised the fuel tank like when you change the air filter. All the way back and use the support rod.
This makes getting at the acorn nut at the top of the shock easier. As for the bottom bolt you can easily get at the nut from the kick stand side of the bike with an extension and swivel. You will need to take out the hanger bolts for the exhaust, brake, and other items attached to the aluminum bracket that is in the way of fully extracting the lower bolt. I did not remove this piece. Just loosened things up so I could pull it out enough to get the bolt out. Next there are a few plastic "hangers" for the compression nob hose that is also hooked to the rear fender. Once you take a look at the hose routing and remove the bolts of the nob it is straight forward to un hook the hose from the clamps...just pull it free from the clamps. The shock WILL come out. Make sure the bike is on the center stand !!! There will be NO pressure on anything form the shock. I rolled up a towel and wedged it lightly under the rear tire to help support and aid in wiggling out the lower and upper bolts.
It helps to PULL and turn at the same time as you turn out the upper bolt with an allen wrench. Just "cock" the wrench slightly so it "bites"as you turn and pull so it does not slip off. I then pulled the bottom bolt out.with the shock now ready to come out pull the bottom yoke off the perch. Pull it towards th rear of the bike. The top of the shock will come out of its socket. Be carefull not to loose the bushings. With a little finesse and patience the shock will come out. tip the top outwards towards you and lift out and up. The new one will go in just the opposite as this one comes out. Be mindfull of the rebound screw and position of the compression adjuster of your new shock. Don't put it in wrong !!! You can only access the rebound screw from the rear brake side !! Feel free to PM me if you have further questions. Brian
 

LetErBuck

Brian Oehlert
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with the bike on the center stand the shock is Fully extended. I did not remove the rear tire. you may want to support the swingarm some how when you remove the shock bolts. Not sure how far it may drop. As I mentioned. I supported the rear wheel to aid in this. It helps to slightly raise up on the rear swingarm in an up and down motion to wiggle the bolts out.
 
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PopJack

PopJack

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Thanks for the great reply. I think I understand the process nos. Basically all the fuss is about getting the bolts out and then a lot of wiggling. :)
 
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mlheck

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You don't say why you are removing the shock, but if you plan on removing it again in the future, reverse the direction of the lower bolt and nut. Then the bolt can be removed without having to remove or lowering the exhaust.

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PopJack

PopJack

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Why I'm removing shock: I'm installing a heavier spring. With the pre-load all the way out (and I have visually verified that it is working), when I load up for traveling I sometimes bottom out the spring. I bought a heavy duty hyper-pro spring set for front and rear. I"m also going to top off the pre-load adjuster.

Front is done with new springs, oil, bushings, seals, etc.

(I'm fat and I carry a lot of stuff. On the other hand when I pass a broken down bike on the road, so far I've been able to get them going.)

BTW, the bike is actually on a stand. I'm doing brakes and some other stuff and had to take the wheel off anyway. So far it makes it easier to see.
 
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PopJack

PopJack

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Well its out. It was an act of faith that the shock would actually come out though. Turns out the spring compressor I bought won't fit- so it's some to either buy another one or think of a machine/real mechanic that I can get into on a Sunday. Bummer :(
 
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PopJack

PopJack

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The end of the story:
First, thanks for the help. Using spring compressors designed for McPherson struts, I got the thing apart. I knew they didn't fit right- and I should not have done what I did- which was to figure a way to make it work. It LOOKED safe to me.

After the preload cylinder was removed, one of the threaded compressors slipped and came completely off the spring and went flying. It actually grazed my head while headed across the garage- and yes I know how lucky I am.

Heart throbbing, I managed to unload the spring from the other compressor using my vice to try and make a now apparently dangerous situation safer. All I can say is that it is now unloaded.

The shock has a deep gouge in the cylinder where the compressor claw raked it. Although I thought it was hooked on the spring, apparently it was getting support from the shock barrel. I don't know if this is fatal to it or not- it's not in the travel zone. As importantly, however, is that the shock has less resistance to being moved by hand than I think it should. Its about like an old fashioned bicycle pump. I'm thinking I'm going to send it off to be rebuilt- although I'm not sure if it needs it or if I just never want to touch another spring as long as I live.
 

Bigmak96

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Jack, glad it was only a close one. Good luck with the rest of the work.
 
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PopJack

PopJack

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The new heavy duty hyper-pro spring is back on the stock shock. New heavy duty hyperpros in the front as well. Observations: 1) The bike is taller. 2) It don't bottom out no more.
Handles pretty well. Can't wait to load her for a trip and see how she does.
 

Bigmak96

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Cool beans Jack, After that I bet it feels like a new bike. I can't wait for winter to give up so I can try out my upgrades.:(
 

Rich R

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Pop,
Glad it was a near miss. The spring does not give you too much to grab onto, so I built this spring compressor.
So far I have used it to change out 6 springs. If members are close by, I would help them with the changout.
Rich
 

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Pop,
Glad it was a near miss. The spring does not give you too much to grab onto, so I built this spring compressor.
So far I have used it to change out 6 springs. If members are close by, I would help them with the changout.
Rich
I will have to keep that in mind...

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
 

SteveST1300

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You will like how it handles on the road I have hyperpro's installed front and rear went with the entire shock and spring for the back it makes a huge difference. And yes the bike does sit higher when I put it on the side stand it leans a bit more than it did with the stock stuff. But the ride is worth it.
 

LetErBuck

Brian Oehlert
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Useful Information - thank you. I've taken a look a few times to see how to get at that nut, but not with any great determination. I wanted to get at the mounting point to see if the bearing needed lubricating. It appears as though this mounting point has seals on it - is that correct, and did you notice what state your pivot bearing was in? In other words do I need to make a more determined effort to take mine out and get the pivot lubricated ?
The new shock came with new bearing and seals at the top. i would not worry about about it unless you are hearing something....But by then it is too late.
Your call. The upper is a pain to get out and service. You really would need to remove the lower bolt first and get the shock off the lower mount. Then it will have room to lower when you get the top bolt out.
 
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