Resurrecting Widder

[Sadlsor]

Well, not really. But I DO have a 20-year old Heat-troller (?) that I need to repair.
Should be do-able, it's just the wires coming out of the box are really frayed, and are near their end of life.
Yes, I know I could get a replacement from another company. I'm taking this on as a personal challenge to to FIX it.
IF!! I could only get inside the box, I could de-solder these 2 wires, cut them and re-solder on to their connecting points.
Anyone have an idea how to get in here?
Also check more pics and angles here on my Smugmug

 

[ArTravlR]

FYI can't see your pictures on Slugmug. Requires login. Have you removed the knob and the brass nut behind the knob?

 

[Uncle Phil]

There should be some screws somewhere (maybe be under the label behind the knob) unless it it a snap-together case.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Widder stuff (which I have) is not 'compatible' with all the other brands (which I also have).
Seems like it was wired in series and the other stuff is in parallel or vice versa.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Widder is wired in series.

 

[Sadlsor]

FYI can't see your pictures on Slugmug. Requires login. Have you removed the knob and the brass nut behind the knob?

Well, of course you can't.
Dumb me didn't make the folder Public.
Doh.
Fixed.
But no, I have not removed the knob yet. That is another option I've considered, but I have a talent of making simple things too complicated, so I thought I would draw from the well of Other Peoples' Experience.
My thinking is removing the knob would simply reveal the shaft going into the box, but I may go that route just to find out.
Thanks!

 

[Sadlsor]

There should be some screws somewhere (maybe be under the label behind the knob) unless it it a snap-together case.

I didn't wanna have to take off the labels, but my suspicion is, IF there are screws to get into it, they HAVE to be under the label somewhere. I don't see any seams on any side or corner, and I've even looked at it with a jeweler's magnifier kind of device.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Probably when you remove the label you will see the screws and that the front 'plate' comes off and the electronics come with it if you don't remove the knob.

 

[Sadlsor]

Thanks, Phil. We shall see; I will update the net result.
Meanwhile, a lister on ldrider email list said he had the same issue years ago, and responded thusly:
"I had exactly the same problem 4 or 5 years back. I don't know how Pat made the rheostat unit, but it is sealed for life, short of using a Dremel on it."
This individual opted to replace it with WnS controller.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Well, if you have to cut into it, no harm if you wreck the label I reckon.
Carefully with a Dremel and you might could salvage the electronics and just find another case.
He may have glued the front panel on instead of using screws.
I had one but I don't remember.

 

[Larry Fine]

Anyone have an idea how to get in here?

 

[Sadlsor]

Ah, yes.
The brute force approach.
("I'm goin' spider-monkey on yo' a$$!")
Saving as last resort...

 

[SMSW]

How about taking a razor blade to the cable sheath and removing it for 6 or 8 inches. Then stagger cut the two wires - say you cut the red so that it is 1 1/2" longer than the white. Now slip heat shrink tubing down over each of the two wires to the bare wire section and maybe you can finesse the heat shrink into the case. Both red and white will now be completely protected once you carefully heat the HS tubing. If the unit is 'potted', i.e. flooded with epoxy or other type of casting compound, you are out of luck.

If you determine there is no way into the case short of Larry's idea, maybe you can dremel grind the plastic case around the wires away and then do my suggested fix above. After the heat shrink, you can make two staggered splices in the wire, insulate them, and be warm and cozy.

 

[Sadlsor]

<SNIP>Now slip heat shrink tubing down over each of the two wires to the bare wire section and maybe you can finesse the heat shrink into the case. Both red and white will now be completely protected once you carefully heat the HS tubing.
<SNIP>

I think I get what you're saying, but the real issue is there at the strain relief molding (photo in Post #1). That's where the wires need to be replaced.
I have another old Widder controller on the way from an ldrider lister.
The box itself is metal.
Will see if the incoming controller works, before I risk destroying the original housing.
Thanks, all, for the ideas.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Just another thought - if you could cut and remove the grommet on the case, that might give you enough 'wiggle room' to what SMSW suggests. You could find another grommet to stick back in the hole (you'd have to cut it then silicone the cut and around it).

 

[Sadlsor]

Perhaps, but I'm a clumsy 'lectrician at best. I would rather have at least 2 inches, but it is what it is.
That's a good idea, Phil.
Once the replacement comes in and tests good, then I'll risk the utter destruction of the original, as I attempt my "repairs."

 

[klaproth]

A client gave me a pair of Gerbings gloves he received from another friend, and I bought the harness for them- but I lacked the ability , then, to regulate them. They were way too warm, so I added a PCM controller to the harness. Bought it on eBay for $1.36. Added an Altoids box ( well insulated) to house it, and Voila’! Heat controller!