Rostra Cruise will not engage ST1100

[kiltman]

Bit of a frustrating day. My newly installed Rostra Cruise will not engage.
I have a Goldwing 1500 cruise control switch.
I have a wheel sensor kit from my Audiovox CC100. Using three magnets
I have gone through the self diagnostic testing procedure from the manual.

After putting it in test mode, the brakes activate the test light
The resume/Acc button activates the test light when activated
The Set/deacc button activates the test light when activated
When I spin the rear wheel it activates the test light and it does a constant flash
When engine is running the test light flashing mode speeds up when applying throttle.
I have power at the 4 amp fuse and power at the 10amp fuse

I have tried different configurations from various install instructions from this site.
current dip settings are 1,3,8,10 are ON 2,4,5,6,7,9,11,12 OFF

I do not have any LED bulbs in the brake circuit

The Goldwing switch is considered an Open circuit control switch.

I phoned Rostra they think it might be the wheel sensor. (it should have a resistance of 40-50 ohms.) I can't get a good reading from it.
They suggested grounding the violet wire. ( I did that no change)
They suggested grounding the dark blue wire to the tach (I did that no change)

The Tupperware is off and I've been road testing engaging the system above 35mph, I can clearly see if the Rostra throttle cable were to engage, it does not.

Suggestions welcomed

 

[Larry Fine]

Turn switch #10 off.

 

[kiltman]

Turn switch #10 off.

Thanks Larry I had tried that in an earlier configuration. I will try that again though.

This was the first setup I did.
1,2,45,6,8,9,10,11,12 off 3,7 ON
Then I went to
1,2,4,5,6,7,8,9,12 OFF 3,10.11 ON

It's gotta be something simple that I've overlooked.
Cheers

 

[Larry Fine]

The coil and magnet setup puts out a sine wave, not a square wave.

Do you by any chance have LED brake/tail light bulbs?

 

[kiltman]

The coil and magnet setup puts out a sine wave, not a square wave.

Do you by any chance have LED brake/tail light bulbs?

No I do not have any LED bulbs. Rosta said by grounding the violet wire I could test to see if that was the problem. If the unit worked with that wire grounded I would then have to install a relay.

Thanks for clarifying the type of wave. The first go round I had it off. Whenever I changed the dip switches I made sure the engine was off and the operating switch was off so that the computer can reset itself.
I have another magnetic sensor I can try too

 

[kiltman]

Well this has been a battle! Happy to say I'm in the winning. I replaced the magnetic coil sensor a unit from Rostra. That didn't resolve the issue so another call to tech support. They told me to ground the blue tach wire again, AND check to see if the throttle cable was connected at the source. (It wasn't. had to remove the plastic housing at the box slide it off and reinsert the cable into the sleeve. It worked sort of but wouldn't shut off with the brake, and of course the rev protector wasn't connected so it wouldn't shut down when you pulled in the clutch.
Today I changed the cruise control linkage to the carbs and also did some troubleshooting with my brake shut-off. I had to pull a relay I installed and take the brake cold wire from the rear pedal instead of from the harness of the GW cruise control switch.
I also worked on my throttle as it was sticking on the helibars. That took some time and it still sticks a bit

The cruise is now functioning. All the buttons work on the GW switch. I will fine tune how aggressive the unit is overtime.

 

[Larry Fine]

When I put a Rostra electronic CC on my NH750ST, I connected the clutch wire to the clutch switch, and also (through a tiny relay) to the third button on the control switch to act as a cruise cancel button.

 

[Rubberdarts]

They told me to ground the blue tach wire again, AND check to see if the throttle cable was connected at the source. (It wasn't. had to remove the plastic housing at the box slide it off and reinsert the cable into the sleeve.

Was this within the Rostra cruise box??? I have been having an issue with mine as well, perhaps this is root of problem. I should just call tech support.

 

[Shawn K]

When I put a Rostra electronic CC on my NH750ST, I connected the clutch wire to the clutch switch, and also (through a tiny relay) to the third button on the control switch to act as a cruise cancel button.

Where did you get that switch?

 

[Larry Fine]

Where did you get that switch?

Oh, you like that, do you? It's a Trail Tech 8500rs accessory remote switch for their computers. I don't remember where I bought it; probably eBay. I usually shop well and search for best price.

It's wired as you'd expect: one common lead, three N.O. switches, and three switched leads. Because the clutch switch wire gets grounded to cancel the CC, I used a tiny cube relay to ground the clutch wire when I press the center control button.

The up and down arrows work just as they are. The CC is always on (with key); I didn't bother with a power switch for it. The side-stand light glows dimply when it's engaged. A 50-ohm resistor makes it bright enough for day, dim enough for night.

 

[Larry Fine]

Was this within the Rostra cruise box??? I have been having an issue with mine as well, perhaps this is root of problem. I should just call tech support.

I may be able to help you. Start with: did it ever work?

 

[kiltman]

Was this within the Rostra cruise box??? I have been having an issue with mine as well, perhaps this is root of problem. I should just call tech support.

Yes it was, the cable had slipped out of the housing, that’s located in the nose cone of the actuator. There are two Torz screws to remove to slide the cone off to view the cable engaging in the assembly.
I’m still trying to fine tune the unit.
I will say it isn’t as forgiving as the AudioVox unit. I’ve dealt with two guys on tech support, one is more helpful than the other.
Linkage is important! The amount of slack is critical. Do not employ more than three beads, strive for one. If you are using the magnetic pick-up between 3/4”-1” gap seems to work best. (If you are using 6 magnets on the disk set the dip switch for 4K pulses)
It takes some time and experimenting to get the right gain. Do one change at a time, remember to turn the unit off before you make a change, this allows the computer to reset with the new setting.
Try not to have too sharp a bend in the cable. Make sure your throttle cable is smooth and doesn’t stick.
I attached the cruise cable to my throttle cable using the brass clamp, this allows it to pull parallel with the throttle cable.
Because of the way I have attached the cruise cable to the bellcrank it works best when my RPM IS 3300 or better. This is because it is easier for the cruise to pull the throttle as it is approaching the top of the arch. Please note that is an issue only with my set-up. If I attached a lever to the bellcrank I’m sure it would eliminate the jerking or pulsing when engaged at lower speeds or RPMs.
I have it set for 6cylinder low,

 

[Larry Fine]

With the Rostra electronic unit, you don't have to use beads because the unit can handle the wire being pushed into the servo.

I can look for my switch settings if you might benefit from having them.

 

[kiltman]

With the Rostra electronic unit, you don't have to use beads because the unit can handle the wire being pushed into the servo.

I can look for my switch settings if you might benefit from having them.

Thanks Larry, if you've done the install on the ST1100 I would be interested in your dip switch settings.

 

[Larry Fine]

Thanks Larry, if you've done the install on the ST1100 I would be interested in your dip switch settings.

Not yet; I was talking about the NH settings, but I guess they wouldn't correspond to those for another bike.

I have a well-paying job in the works, so I may be able to afford to do the the CC install on the ST very soon.

I still have to decide whether to use an after-market switch unit again or go with a Goldwing switch housing.

It's hard to start a bike project that means the bike can't be ridden until the installation has been completed.

 

[kiltman]

The three beads thing was what I got out of the Rostra tech guy. Given what the throttle travel is and what the Rostra travel is according to their specs I needed to put in one bead. I've been doing my testing with the shelter off so I can actually see how the cruise has been working. I have followed what Reg Simmons has done when he installed the Rostra on his 1100. I have referenced a BMW and a Concours install as well, and systematically tried those settings too. I'm getting it close to dialed in. When in fourth gear at 90km/h it works as it should and in 5th from 106km/h and up it works fine too. That leads me to my linkage...... anyway I shall keep experimenting.

 

[Larry Fine]

I found that minimal cable slack quickened correction speed, making it smoother.

 

[kiltman]

I found that minimal cable slack quickened correction speed, making it smoother.

I shall try that, thanks

 

[kiltman]

I pushed the envelope on my comfort zone, I screwed up the courage and took off the carbs on my 2002 ST to install a control arm for the Rostra cruise control. Over the past two weeks I have been transferring the farkels from my 97 to the 2002.

When I was in Winnipeg last month I met up with Reg Siemens, Uncle Phil had suggested him because of the documentation he did on installing a Rostra cruise on his bikes. From him I was able to get the dimensions for the control arm.

It’s basically a 4” piece of Aluminum bar 1/8” thick by ½” wide and you bend it to clear hoses. It also gives you the right amount of travel for the Rostra to engage properly. The leverage also makes it easier for the cruise to keep a speed without surging.

I drilled and tapped two holes in the bell crank (M4 .7) and drilled and tapped a hole at the end of the leaver to accept a shoulder bolt (M4 .7)

It took me most of the afternoon to accomplish as I had to go to the local arena to find a broken hockey stick. I got them off without breaking anything and putting them back on was easier then the removal.

I’m pleased with the results and look forward to engaging the cruise in the spring.

 

[kiltman]

Well done. And the carbs went back on smoothly. As you know, many
people have a hard time putting the carbs back on.
Hope you have lots of opportunity to try out your CC this spring.

I used a special lube and they went on easily...... and that’s all I’m sayin’.