Setting the Rebound Damping

[bobframe]

Although I'm not sure I'd know a Rebound Damping if it dropped into my lap, I'd like to be sure that my '05 ST1300's Rear Suspension Damping is set to the "standard position" (as the owner's manual describes it). I have no idea where the previous owner had left it.

Unfortunately, I cannot figure out how to get my hands on the damping adjuster screw. Seems like the frame is blocking my access to it. I can see the screw, but I can't reach it with a screw driver to make the turns necessary.

Any suggestions for how to make a simple turn of the damping adjuster screw?

Hey, thanks!

 

[Scooter]

To adjust the rebound dampening just get a hold of a long skinny screwdriver which can then be inserted through the hole in the step holder (the side frame which holds the footrests). It sounds like you've looked at the manual. The hole is shown just below the dampening adjuster although I see that Honda didn't mention anything about it.

 

[Marshal_Mercer]

Now that you have the screw driver poked through the frame hole and the blade has been inserted into the slot-head screw that is the adjuster for the rebound damping, here's what to do. 1) Take the screwdriver out. 2)Take a ride. Note how the bike feels going over dips and bumps. 3) Reinsert the screwdriver. Turn the screwdriver clockwise until it gently rests on its stop. Turn the screwdirver one-and-one-half turns counterclockwise. Have a friend help you as you press down on the seat, then release it. Watch as the seat returns to its normal position. You want the seat to return in slightly less than one second. Screw the adjuster clockwise to lengthen the return time and counterclockwise to shorten it. 4) Take another ride. Note the new feel. If the feel is too harsh, adjust counterclockwise one-half turn. If the ride feel has not changed, adjust clockwise one-half turn. Repeat until you are satisfied.

Remember: rebound damping only works on the up-stroke. It won't make dips and bumps go away; it will just make them easier to manage.

Marshal

 

[dduelin]

With a stock shock the standard setting or starting point is one turn out from full hard. Full hard is fully turned in clockwise. Take it easy and lightly seat the adjuster to Full Hard - don't screw it in tight - just lightly. Then back out one turn.

With the bike held upright with the help of a friend or two, press down sharply on the luggage rack and release. Adjust the rebound adjuster screw so the rear of the bike returns to the at-rest position quickly and does not bounce or oscillate up and down one or more times after releasing. You want a single rebound stroke without a bounce or bobble. Too little rebound damping and the bike will rebound up, go past the at-rest position, then bounce or oscillate once or twice before stopping. With too much rebound damping the return stroke is too slow but no bounce either. At 3/4 or one turn out the setting will probably be too slow but you won't know this until you turn it out past a point where the bike goes beyond the single rebound stroke and begins to allow a slight oscillation. Adjust at first with 1/4 turn increments. Turn it out more and you will see the slight oscillation or bounce get worse. Turn it back in to stop the bounce. Try 1/8 turn adjustments to zero in. Then ride the bike and see if this setting works for you. I found the stock shock to work best for me turned out 1 and 3/4 (1.75) turns or so.

It is easy to set too much rebound (too slow) and the ride will still feel good and controlled over single bumps or widely spaced bumps. However, over rough pavement or repeated bumps close together the shock rebounds too slowly and does not have enough time to extend back out so the shock "packs down" in its travel and loss of rear wheel traction occurs.

 

[bobframe]

Thanks. I was able to set the damping at the "standard" setting. Will try the suggestions you all made later...but for now, at least I know where the suspension is set.

 

[st1300r]

With a stock shock the standard setting or starting point is one turn out from full hard. Full hard is fully turned in clockwise. Take it easy and lightly seat the adjuster to Full Hard - don't screw it in tight - just lightly. Then back out one turn.

With the bike held upright with the help of a friend or two, press down sharply on the luggage rack and release. Adjust the rebound adjuster screw so the rear of the bike returns to the at-rest position quickly and does not bounce or oscillate up and down one or more times after releasing. You want a single rebound stroke without a bounce or bobble. Too little rebound damping and the bike will rebound up, go past the at-rest position, then bounce or oscillate once or twice before stopping. With too much rebound damping the return stroke is too slow but no bounce either. At 3/4 or one turn out the setting will probably be too slow but you won't know this until you turn it out past a point where the bike goes beyond the single rebound stroke and begins to allow a slight oscillation. Adjust at first with 1/4 turn increments. Turn it out more and you will see the slight oscillation or bounce get worse. Turn it back in to stop the bounce. Try 1/8 turn adjustments to zero in. Then ride the bike and see if this setting works for you. I found the stock shock to work best for me turned out 1 and 3/4 (1.75) turns or so.

It is easy to set too much rebound (too slow) and the ride will still feel good and controlled over single bumps or widely spaced bumps. However, over rough pavement or repeated bumps close together the shock rebounds too slowly and does not have enough time to extend back out so the shock "packs down" in its travel and loss of rear wheel traction occurs.

+1. And a good reason not to use seat of the pants to check the setting. It's to damp the unsprung mass of the swing arm wheel etc. not the rider and bike.

 

[Tor]

I was checking mine tonight, and seemed slow on rebound. So I backed the screw out some. No difference. Backed it all the way out. Still the same. Think the valve is stuck somehow. Anyone have any ideas what might be wrong...

 

[dduelin]

Sounds like you got it diagnosed. If changing the rebound adjustment does not affect the speed of rebound the valve on the shock body is broken or stuck somehow.

 

[Tor]

It's got 70k on the clock. Guess I have to find me a new shock, or have a Racetech rebuild done. Thanks, Dave.

 

[wjbertrand]

@ Tor: Make sure to dial it all the way in until it lightly seats and then back it out. If the screw was already more than one turn out, further backing off won't have any effect.Having said that, a worn shock will generally loose rebound damping, not increase damping, as your "slow" comment would suggest. Have you tried increasing the preload? Lost preload would tend to make the shock seem to recover more slowly after compression. Perhaps your remote hydraulic preload adjuster needs refilling?

 

[Fortunet 1]

@ Tor: Make sure to dial it all the way in until it lightly seats and then back it out. If the screw was already more than one turn out, further backing off won't have any effect.Having said that, a worn shock will generally loose rebound damping, not increase damping, as your "slow" comment would suggest. Have you tried increasing the preload? Lost preload would tend to make the shock seem to recover more slowly after compression. Perhaps your remote hydraulic preload adjuster needs refilling?

I would DEFINATELY look at that last statement ! Nearly all of our local ST's around here NEEDED that resovoir flushed and refilled ! IgoFar showed us that !