Found a mice had chewed through one of my spark plug wires insulation,just barely see the form of the copper strands,so planning on possibly changing out wires after some probing and testing ,they are 27 years old after all....
Source/part number for spark plug wires?
- Thread starter mznyc
- Start date
Temporarily, you could fill the hole with a blob of liquid electrical tape.
The Cheese
How about a set of coils and plug wires for $25 plus shipping? I just removed then today. Tested and working. Came from a 31K mile bike.
I don't think repair is an option really. Even temp. Gotta replace.
Screenshot from Partzilla below.
I don't think repair is an option really. Even temp. Gotta replace.
Screenshot from Partzilla below.
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Can't beat that offer with a stick.
The Cheese
If youre saying what I think you are I have a second set available. It's a set I have from when I first bought my bike. Was trying to diagnose a running condition. I think they were from an '01. Can't remember mileage. They are guaranteed to work as well. If you want I'll dig em out today. Same price. PM me of you do.
Heck of a deal! I’ll take them if available just to have a spare!
The Cheese
Like I said. I have two pairs/sets. I'm a bit confused. You said above you wanted a set. Now you don't? Fine if you don't want them. Really. Just don't use that as an excuse. You getting a set is not hurting anybody else. You not getting a set certainly doesn't hurt me.
Tempting,...I haven't looked at what it takes to get them out,More than the side panels,airbox,I assume....?How about a set of coils and plug wires for $25 plus shipping? I just removed then today. Tested and working. Came from a 31K mile bike.
I don't think repair is an option really. Even temp. Gotta replace.
Screenshot from Partzilla below.
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- 2012 ST1300P ABS
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- 8912
You can change the coils and wires by removing the maintenance covers, tank shelter and air box. Just ahead of the carb area is two brackets, one for the wiring connectors and the other is the coil support bracket. You'll need to disconnect all the wiring connectors and remove that bracket. Then you can disconnect the wiring connector for the coils which is on the left side inside the maintenance cover area in the upper side. You can look inside of that area with a flashlight and trace the wires from the coils to the connector.
Once the spark plug wires are disconnected and the coil bracket is loose, you can twist and turn the whole assembly out of the top. Be sure you note how the spark plug wires are routed as they need to be in a certain position for everything to connect properly.
Sorry, I didn't take pics when I did this a year or so ago and there may be a step or so I'm missing but the point is that changing the coils and plug wires is possible without removing the cowls.
Once the spark plug wires are disconnected and the coil bracket is loose, you can twist and turn the whole assembly out of the top. Be sure you note how the spark plug wires are routed as they need to be in a certain position for everything to connect properly.
Sorry, I didn't take pics when I did this a year or so ago and there may be a step or so I'm missing but the point is that changing the coils and plug wires is possible without removing the cowls.
Sorry Cheese, guess I missed they were for an ST11! My bad!
Where did you get the coil wires? I spoke with a Honda dealer and was told they no longer sell them..
the Partzilla fiche shows them as still available, but if all you need is replacement wire, that's usually available for a lot less money at an auto parts store. I've never replaced the wire on the ST, but usually it just screws into the spark plug cap end, so I'd assume that's how the ST wires work. Unscrew the cap from the wire, remove the other end of the wire from the ignition coil, and call around your area to see who carries solid core spark plug wire.
STmark1300
Ron
It's been a couple months, have you been able to replace the wires. Did they screw in?
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The standard stranded copper core HT lead from an auto dealer works perfectly well. The lead screws into the plug cap - about an inch - but it is only a push fit into the coil end, and needs something to stop it from falling out.
The original lead has a gland fixed permanently to the HT lead and a plastic washer. The coil cap presses the lead into the spike in the coil as the cap is screwed in. A bit like the 'olive' on a water pipe compression joint.
The lead needs this gland to keep it from simply falling out of the ignition coil.
When I was trying to find an ignition fault, I replaced my leads with standard HT wire bought by the metre for very little money. I salvaged the glands, but couldn't find a glue that would keep them in place, so I wrapped some thin chord where the gland needed to be, pulled it very tight so that it squeezed the outer sheath, and held it tight while the super-glue set - gluing the chord to itself. Then trimmed the ends. I used the original protective sleeve.
The original lead has a gland fixed permanently to the HT lead and a plastic washer. The coil cap presses the lead into the spike in the coil as the cap is screwed in. A bit like the 'olive' on a water pipe compression joint.
The lead needs this gland to keep it from simply falling out of the ignition coil.
When I was trying to find an ignition fault, I replaced my leads with standard HT wire bought by the metre for very little money. I salvaged the glands, but couldn't find a glue that would keep them in place, so I wrapped some thin chord where the gland needed to be, pulled it very tight so that it squeezed the outer sheath, and held it tight while the super-glue set - gluing the chord to itself. Then trimmed the ends. I used the original protective sleeve.