Springs & Valves

[freetime2247]

Ok guys, I'm gonna change my fork oil as I have the left fork leaking some oil at 56K miles. Nothing done to the suspension yet.
The question is after reading all these post, should I change from the OEM springs and valves on both the front and rear or just change my oil.
I don't ride the twisties moderately I'm mostly a papa with my solo riding weight at 190lbs and 60lbs of gear...
I can afford the pricey stuff but not sure what it would give me over the OEM setup if I'm not an aggressive rider.
Any thoughts?

 

[Mellow]

If you're happy with the OEM setup and you never bottom out or feel the bike isn't performing, no reason to change. Just My Opinion.

 

[vinny]

I was happy with my OEM setup until I rode another 1100 with some upgrades... Now I am spending some big $$$$ to better mine. Yes, the difference was that good.
Of course, I live in the twisties...

 

[freetime2247]

On this forum about a lot guys switching out the OEM springs anywhere from 30K - 100K miles? Do the OEM springs wear down or are the aftermarket springs that much better?

 

[freetime2247]

Vinny,
What brand of suspension aftermarket parts did you purchase and did you really notice that much of a difference over the stock setup?

 

[Mark]

I bottomed out with the stock front springs and don't with the HyperPro's that I installed.
Sonic Springs was just coming out when I installed them or I would have gone with theirs.

 

[Mellow]

On this forum about a lot guys switching out the OEM springs anywhere from 30K - 100K miles? Do the OEM springs wear down or are the aftermarket springs that much better?

Yes and no.. the aftermarket stuff is VERY good and I have no doubt a great improvement. I have 55k on mine and I feel the OEM suspension is fine. I'm certain an upgraded suspension would be great but I'm not where I want to throw the $ at that. I haven't looked at what an OEM shock replacement costs, maybe when it's time for one I'll weigh the options/costs but I'm good for now. Those that live in the twisty areas of the country will probably see and take advantage or a better suspension more so than us flat-landers.

 

[freetime2247]

I've never bottomed out yet with the OEM shocks and springs. I'm thinking I should ride someones ST with the suspension upgrade so I'd have something to compare my suspension with.

 

[Mellow]

I've never bottomed out yet with the OEM shocks and springs. I'm thinking I should ride someones ST with the suspension upgrade so I'd have something to compare my suspension with.

Bad idea.... LOL

 

[Mark]

I've never bottomed out yet with the OEM shocks and springs. I'm thinking I should ride someones ST with the suspension upgrade so I'd have something to compare my suspension with.

Bad idea.... LOL

Don't do it unless you have the coin!

 

[freetime2247]

Ah sounds like if I rode an ST with the suspension upgrades then I'd be hooked and have to spend the $$$$ to upgrade mine....

 

[vinny]

Vinny,
What brand of suspension aftermarket parts did you purchase and did you really notice that much of a difference over the stock setup?

Right now, the forks are currently at "Traxxion Dynamics" in Woodstock, GA with upgraded springs (don't know which springs they used) just told them my weight and the riding style. They are using their brand of valving. The forks are ready for pick up, but now I am waiting for the new "Penski" rear shock. All total the bill will be about $1100.00. I plan on posting a thread about the differences when I actually get everything back and on the bike.
Some may think I crazy.... yeah, I am... but the difference should be profound. If you had an 1100 and was familiar with it, I would let you swap so you could see the difference. But I see you are on a 1300 so the comparison would not be the same.

 

[freetime2247]

Thanks Vinny. I'd be glad to hear about the differences when you get everything in order..

 

[dduelin]

Your weight is important as a first consideration. The OEM springs don't wear out but they are too soft for many riders right off the showroom floor.

 

[Gus1300]

Was curious about all this so dove into the upgrade with CBR bearings (wheel x2, drive flange and tapered steering) and Race Tech gold valve kit for the front (including new springs) and new spring (for now, we'll see about the shock later) for the back. Plan to document and post as I go, or after it's done depending on how long the 'as I go' takes! More to follow but hoping I'll notice, and be pleased, with the difference.

 

[vinny]

Was curious about all this so dove into the upgrade with CBR bearings (wheel x2, drive flange and tapered steering) and Race Tech gold valve kit for the front (including new springs) and new spring (for now, we'll see about the shock later) for the back. Plan to document and post as I go, or after it's done depending on how long the 'as I go' takes! More to follow but hoping I'll notice, and be pleased, with the difference.

Gus, One thing I remember while watching one of "Traxxion's" videos was a mention of the Race Tech valves. The technician said they are good products, but ya have to know how to adjust them and then they have to be tight. The one thing that gave me peace of mind was when they tore down my forks, they checked them for run out, and polished the tubes (man they look nice) and that's great for better seal wear. Of course, the new valving and springs, bushings, seals and they're set for my weight etc... For the pair it was about $150 labor plus parts. Look for a thread on this when I have the bike reassembled and have a good chance to test all of this.

 

[Gus1300]

Roger that. They came pre-assembled and labeled for compression and rebound, packaged as a set (upper and lower) so hopefully I shouldn't need to do too much to them besides install them but will be asking questions and reviewing videos/instructions before removing the forks and getting into all this. Oh and changing to PRIIs when I do. Still haven't had the experience of manually changing a tire yet...ugh.

update 6/6: Have noticed the left fork has a coat of oil on it recently so getting close to time to replace the seal and get on with the kit swap. Changed the rear tire (yes, manually this time...) only when I got into the bike; see album for what the drive flange bearing looked like if you're interested. Don't think the front would be much worse to do with the limited tools I had at the time, but a tire changer sure would make it more straightforward. Interestingly enough, I now have a slight pull to the right whereas prior to swapping the rear tire there was none.

Things that make you go 'hmmmm...'!