ST1100 Final Drive O-rings and lube questions

[Nczcar01]

Just removed, cleaned, and synced the carbs on my ‘92 ST1100 and gettting ready to service the rear end and final drive. Figured I would check with the experts here on this forum regarding a couple of questions.
1. Best place to order the 3 final drive o rings. I seem to recall someone was selling the 3 o-ring set at one time.
2. Lubing guidance….I’ve seen archive articles about only using Moly 60 paste (I do have this) and have read updates about not using Moly 60 on the mating splines.
Appreciate any help on above to keep this nice machine on the road.

 

[Oldbikefixr]

A member here had O-ring sets for sale a while back. Use the search feature, upper right on the blue bar.
I order parts from Ron Ayers, Partzilla, and Revzilla mostly. Local Honda dealership and the shop down the road will order parts for me as well. Shop for price including shipping. There's some variation there you can take advantage of.
I always 'paste' both spline gears on mating sets, don't over or under do it. There are also some how to's you can locate with the 'search'. Also some helpful Youtube videos. The Honda manual may have before/after photos or some guidance on paste quantity...I don't recall.
The 1100's PO over did the paste on mine, as well as poorly cleaned it up afterward. Messy job, be neat.
And....welcome to ST's!

 

[SMSW]

The original Honda Moly 60 in a little cylindrical tube (miniature caulk tube) is the good stuff. It is not available any more, so Loctite's 8012 moly is generally accepted to be the 60's replacement (by accepted, I mean by consensus here).

I can't help you w/ the o rings, though there are online stores that sell those size rings.

 

[tnbill]

I sent the guy that was on here selling them money for 5 sets of the o rings on may 23 and so far NOTHING

 

[DeanR]

For applying the Moly, just "paint" it on.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I've used the Honda moly and the Loctite moly - either one will work except the first one is no longer manufactured.
I've got 3 ST1100s with over 120,000+ miles on them and they still have the same splines/chunk.
The stuff works!
The problem with just ordering the o-rings is shipping will eat you up.
I'd probably order a set or two of brake pads (you'll use them eventually) to get your minimum order up to free shipping.
You might order a few fasteners like 5mm pan head screws (the ones that magically disappear when you drop them) while you're at it.
Also, there is a replacement bolt for the big JIS screw in the side panels that works with a 5mm T-Handle.
If you change them and the hex heads at the bottom of the fuel tank cover to socket heads, you can strip her down to the tailpiece and fairing pockets with one T-Handle.

 

[dwalby]

www.carolinabikeandtrike.com

part number VFD-5 contains all 3

 

[Erdoc48]

The member selling the O rings is cyclehead (Paul)…he is well known on the MR2 forum as well and is well respected- he may just be away for a bit, but I wouldn’t worry about not getting the O rings- you can PM him

Also, you can check http://carolinabikeandtrike.com/ (it says the website. Is undergoing renovation, but you can email the address on that site, and they sell the 3 O rings (5 sets of them). I recall them being like $15 or so.

EDIT: great minds think alike- I was writing my post as dwalby got in before me (and that’s a beauty of a GSD)!

 

[Nczcar01]

Thanks for all the replies. I had earlier emailed Carolina Bike and Trike about the o rings and thrust washer. I have about 1and 1/2 tubes of the Moly 60 in my stuff stash and recently purchased a bottle of the high moly content Loctite. Been using this for a while since a little goes a long ways, but ran across this note on the bottom of Mike Martin’s maintenance tips on the final drive. Thought I would check in with the experts after reading this. Below is main reason for my first email.
After following the above procedure for a number of years, I found that the portion of the wheel where the final driven flange mates showed a considerable amount of wear. Someone told me that moly paste is not appropriate for use on aluminum, except as an anti-seize lubricant. In this application, there is small but continuous movement, so it doesn't qualify as an application for an anti-seize lubricant. I have accepted this as fact, and have started using grease in this particular location instead of the moly paste. YMMV

 

[ST1100Y]

I found that the portion of the wheel where the final driven flange mates showed a considerable amount of wear.

When the drive spline does not have proper guidance/centering anymore, lateral movement will wear down the "bearing boss" on the wheel (you might find the thin O-ring there shredded, it's groove on the bearing boss significantly shallower...
Contributing are a number of (neglected) items, like worn hub dampers and aluminum bushings, lack of proper (Moly) lubricant, movement of the wheel due worn wheel bearings, etc...
The use of Molybdenum sulfide avoids a direct contact of metal on metal, which would lead to fretting/significant wear... (the wheel swivels back and forth in the drive spline due the rubber hub dampers flexing under load...)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

I'd therefore STrongly advice against the use of any other lubricants there...

I further vouch for those orange, polyurethane O-ring kits from the Valkyrie site mentioned (got mine at eBay though...)
First assembly is a tad stiff (the PU is harder to compress then Viton rings), but they'll last ways longer then the "rubber" ones...

 

[CYYJ]

Here's a link to an article that provides more information (and illustrations) about ST 1100 final drive O-rings:

Article [11] - ST1100 - O-rings in the final drive (rear wheel) | ST1100 Articles

Much has been written about the importance of properly lubricating the final drive with moly paste whenever the rear wheel is removed. Not so much has been written about the importance of ensuring that the three O-rings in the final drive are checked to ensure that they are in good condition...

www.st-owners.com

Michael