Article [11] ST1100 - Gear shift lever oil seal

[hutchir51]

I have a 2002 ST1100 with 166,000 miles on it. I have a slow oil leak right side rear of the engine. Oil leak is from the seal at the gearshift lever, my problem is I can't find this seal in the Clymers manual or any of the parts fiche that I looked at online. Can anyone tell me the part number for the seal?

 

[ST1100Y]

Positive it's seeping from the shifter shaft and not from elsewhere like the alternator O-ring?

On quick glance I'd say:
rear case, loc 11, OIL SEAL,14X22X5, P/N 91203KK3830
behind that, loc 9, NEEDLE BRG 14X12, P/N 91101121691

But check en detail for your year/model

 

[aSTerix]

I have a 2002 ST1100 with 166,000 miles on it. I have a slow oil leak right side rear of the engine. Oil leak is from the seal at the gearshift lever, my problem is I can't find this seal in the Clymers manual or any of the parts fiche that I looked at online. Can anyone tell me the part number for the seal?

Wow, that was a lot more difficult to find in the fiches than I was expecting :

Think its this though ...part (11) which concurs with Martin's (ST1100Y) post previous

I've not been able to locate it in the Honda Service Manual

 

[hutchir51]

The fiche is confusing, if those parts went into the case in group one the bearing would be on the outside of the seal. So those parts nine and 11 go into the case in group three which would put the seal on the outside of the bearing. The bike is back in the shed he got cold again, when it gets warmer again I'll get the bike out and take a better look to make sure it is the seal and not the O-ring. The next thing if it is the seal is to find out if the seal can be removed from the outside or do I have to pull the motor to change that seal. Thanks for the help.

 

[aSTerix]

The fiche is confusing, if those parts went into the case in group one the bearing would be on the outside of the seal. So those parts nine and 11 go into the case in group three which would put the seal on the outside of the bearing. The bike is back in the shed he got cold again, when it gets warmer again I'll get the bike out and take a better look to make sure it is the seal and not the O-ring. The next thing if it is the seal is to find out if the seal can be removed from the outside or do I have to pull the motor to change that seal. Thanks for the help.

I've got my gearbox on the bench, will take some photos for you

EDIT: here they are







If I'm feeling adventurous tomorrow I'll take off the shifter plate and photograph inside

 

[ST1100Y]

The next thing if it is the seal is to find out if the seal can be removed from the outside .

There is a circlip and a washer, behind that the seal covering the needle-bearing... maybe driving small self-tapping screws in each side (see to sink them into the tin-ring inside the rubber) allow you to just pull it out?
Can you notice excessive lateral movement on the shaft?

 

[aSTerix]

So those parts nine and 11 go into the case in group three which would put the seal on the outside of the bearing.

Group 3 is the shiny metal case that bolts inside the main casing

Group 1 is the outer casing (dirty case)

If Honda had drawn a dotted line from 9&11 going underneath the outer case it would have been clearer , as you can see from the photograph it would point to the gear change splines

 

[aSTerix]

The next thing if it is the seal is to find out if the seal can be removed from the outside or do I have to pull the motor to change that seal. Thanks for the help.

I felt adventurous and took the linkage cover off and removed the spindle. I took a photo from inside and also from outside, it looks like the oil seal and bearing (9 & 11) are inserted from the OUTSIDE, let me know if you would like me to take any more photos

If you want me to try anything special to remove the oil seal i.e. that approximates to how you plan to do it , then just ask. I figure I may as well replace it anyway seeing as its right in front of me (and looks like it was weeping anyway)

From inside: (note casting face that the needle bearing sits against inferring that it was inserted from the outside)


From outside (spindle assembly removed)

 

[aSTerix]

I popped my oil seal out with a screwdriver and it took quite a bit of force. I reckon if you screw into the oil seal with a couple of self tapping screws (one on either side of the shaft), that should give you enough purchase to pull it out with long nose pliers

Here is a photo with oil seal removed:



And here is a photo of the internal (spring) side of the oil seal



and to drift the new oil seal into place around the shaft, I tested various sockets and found this 14mm deep socket fitted perfectly (i.e. around non splined part of shaft and also nice fit for oil seal face)

 

[Milpan]

I have this problem too. There isn't too much room to work where this is located so I'm wondering if it's even possible to remove the seal without having to remove the engine?

 

[Roger]

I shall be replacing my leaky seal soon. I think I'll be laying the bike on its side for access, once I know there's a couple of burly chaps to lift it back up! The seal is in a tight spot, but we'll see how it goes. Don't say it's impossible to reach...!

 

[GGely]

I don’t have this issue (currently) with my ST but I did with my GL650 Interstate. On that series, it’s a simple job requiring no real effort.

If I recall correctly, my 9 year old grandson (at the time) used a small flat blade screwdriver to pry the seal out and then a 14mm deep socket (see above) to drive the replacement in.

Off the top of my head, less than 5 minutes after the bike went on the lift.

 

[Roger]

So the best thing would be to get a 9 year old boy for the job? That sounds encouraging!

 

[GGely]

If it's a GL650 and child labour is sanctioned in your community...

 

[Roger]

Well, the seal is changed. After removing the one piece under-tray and the two small side plates to let in light, I laid the bike over on its left side and removed the gear change lever mechanism. My mechanic son brought a selection of strong picks and eventually the seal came free after a lot of poking and levering. Phew! I'm pleased to say that though it's a cramped place to work, it's not impossible.

Running the engine - as you do - with the back door open about 15 feet away, I was amazed when the CO alarm went off in the house. How sensitive is that!

 

[Milpan]

Well, the seal is changed. After removing the one piece under-tray and the two small side plates to let in light, I laid the bike over on its left side and removed the gear change lever mechanism. My mechanic son brought a selection of strong picks and eventually the seal came free after a lot of poking and levering. Phew! I'm pleased to say that though it's a cramped place to work, it's not impossible.

Running the engine - as you do - with the back door open about 15 feet away, I was amazed when the CO alarm went off in the house. How sensitive is that!

Roger, how easy was it to fit the new seal?
Was it just the seal? No other bits like circles?

 

[Roger]

Milpan, I haven't tested the bike on the road as I have other jobs to complete, so I'll know better in a week or so. I don't think the oil is from anywhere else, but who knows! I have a belly plate that probably caused the oil to spread all over The new seal is a fairly easy fit - I found a box spanner that had the correct shaft diameter and cut it just longer than the gear change shaft to gently tap the seal in square. Getting the old seal out is the hard part........