ST1100 Progressive spring R & R help!!!!

[jaysponger]

I am replacing my front fork springs with progressive spring and I notice one spring is slightly longer (1/4 inch) than the other one. Also, there were two washers that comes with it, one is slightly thicker than the other one. I assembled the right spring however the washer seems like it is not the right fit, the washer is not seated flush with the spring seat.

Where does the slightly longer spring goes? Does it matter where I put it?
Sinces the washer won't seat flush can I use the original washer even though it says in the instruction that you won't need it?

Thanks for the help.

Can't upload photo

Here's the link
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/album.php?albumid=1404

 

[tlartist]

Re: Progressive spring R & R help!!!!

No instructions came with the springs? When you took the other springs out did you notice one longer than the other? Did you check the inside diameter of the washer hole? If one is larger than the other put the larger one on top. At least that is what I did for the sonic install. The washer inside diameter should clear the nut, coming up to rest near/on the fork cap. It looks in your pic that the washer is stopping the spring from going all the way up. What model and year of bike?
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[jaysponger]

Re: Progressive spring R & R help!!!!

Old spring was the original, they are the same length. The washer hole inside diameter is smaller than the original washer. Instruction that came with the Progressive spring does not specify.

 

[tlartist]

Re: Progressive spring R & R help!!!!

What model bike? Say you use the original washer, will the spring travel to the top of the tube? If the new springs are similar in length to the old I would set them up the same as originally installed. Do you remember if the spring made it all the way to the top, or was it stopped short by the washer under the nut?
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[jaysponger]

Re: Progressive spring R & R help!!!!

The old springs are the same lenght, the new springs (progressive) are not. One is longer (1/4 inch) than the other.

If I use the old washer it won't travel to the top of the tube, however the new washers is a lot more thicker (3x) than the old ones.







<----------Bike model

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Re: Progressive spring R & R help!!!!

The washer inside diameter should clear the nut, coming up to rest near/on the fork cap. It looks in your pic that the washer is stopping the spring from going all the way up.

Tom, Jay has a 1991 ST1100. The picture shows what the right fork is supposed to look like. There's a 'C' washer/clip that fits under the nut and holds the spring under it. During a PS install the old spacer in the right fork is removed/deleted and one in the left fork is cut down to 3.25" or replaced with PVC tube that length.

Dunno what to say about the PS spring length difference, Jay. It might just be in the range of accepted variance. Mine were the same length, IIRC. As to the washer(s), just pick one and put it on top of the spring, and another under the the new spacer on the left side.

John

 

[jaysponger]

Re: Progressive spring R & R help!!!!

John, I was just thinking about the tolerance. It might be within the range of tolerance/variance. I am going to use the old washer for the right side.

Now all I need is the sliders and bushings should be here tuesday. Might as well change them since I got it all opened up.

 

[juddspaintballs]

Re: Progressive spring R & R help!!!!

Mine were the same length as well, or at least close enough that I never noticed. For the spacer that needed cut down, I used PVC first and for some reason I must have done something wrong because the ride sucked until I took the forks back apart and took off the 1/4" or so in the spacer that I cut too long. I also switched from the PVC to steel pipe because I cracked the PVC trying to trim it. Great ride since that point though!

 

[Ross Smith]

Re: Progressive spring R & R help!!!!

Jay, I've also got a set of Progressives in my 99 Standard. Don't worry about the minor length variance. I found that installing them with the compressed end UP made them quieter, if that's any help. It doesn't matter what direction they are installed otherwise.

I found it better to modify the steel spacers that were originally in my forks rather than use the PVC pipe that Progressive gave me. The PVC pipe is a pain to cut so that they won't crack or split. You'll discard the right fork spacer. Make sure the left is 3.25", has a washer at each end of it and is cut SQUARE or you'll have a hard time fitting it and quite likely a noisy fork later on. If you can, turn it on a lathe to square it.

Finally, I found that the longer fork spring made it hard to raise the right fork damper bolt through the spring center. I used a short length of 1/2" copper tubing as a guide for a telescopic magnetic retriever to get it without having the powerful magnet keep getting drawn to the spring. Made it easy to raise the bolt and put the slotted washer on it. Once up, I raised the copper pipe past the nut and slipped the slotted washer under it, then removed it.

Hope this info helps.

Ross

 

[jaysponger]

Works perfectly! Much better than the original specially with th the progressive in the back as well.

 

[broc11]

So if I get progressive type fork springs I have to remove the and throw away the spacer from the right fork and cut down the left side spacer to 3.25" ??
the wilbers suspension guy I ordered my shock from knew nothing about this?
whats the consensus on the best type of fork springs to get? progressive type or straight rate? wilbers have a progressive spring and fork oil package for the st1100 abs and that is what the suspension guy is recommending. any tips before I 'fork' out the cash,lol. thanks