ST1100 Wheel bearing replacement (parts? loaner kit?)

[Trailcrunchers]

Dear ST community,
Lately I've been hearing a humming from lower part of the '92 ST1100, gets worse when leaning into curves @ highway speeds.

I suspect the wheel bearings which are prob original to this bike (>80kmi), and I would like to pull them for inspection. (If anyone knows a link to a video completing this that'd be great)
Since there's a good chance they're the problem (and prob s/b replaced anyway), I'd take any recommendations for you've had luck ordering these parts.
Below are a couple of options from amazon dealers, and a quick search of PArtzilla shows these sparts @ ~double the cost of amazon.
Since I'm new to this project, also trying to confirm if I need to order anythign else besides the bearings and seals?

Any input (or link to a previous post where this was discussed) would be great.
And I will probably send John an email for the loaner tool kit on this, but wanted to get the parts ordered first.

Thank you!
Chris

OFFICENTRIC for All Balls Front Wheel Bearing Seal Kit for Honda ST1100 91-96 ST1100A 92-96

BossBearing Rear Wheel Bearings and Seal Kit for Honda ST1100 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997

 

[Larry Fine]

My Nighthawk 750 did the same thing. New wheel bearings didn't help. New tires did the trick.

The tires were feathered, and hummed loudly when leaned over, especially while going slowly.

 

[TerryS]

When my 1100 needed new front wheel bearings, the bike had a real tendency towards instability in truck wakes.

 

[Al st1100]

check the edges of the tires they get feathered and can get real noisey. The bearing can be replaced with out the kit.

 

[Ron]

I would suggest buying name brand bearings. Before installing, pop the seal off to verify there is grease.

 

[DannoXYZ]

I know there are manuals that say to hammer in bearings. I just don't like that.

I prefer to press them in gently. Get bearing press kit from Autozone's free loaner programme.
Then use long bolt or all-thread rod to pull press-cups together and push bearings in smoothly and slowly.

https://www.autozone.com/shop-and-garage-tools/loaner-pulley-puller/p/powerbuilt-fwd-bearing-remover-and-installer-set/537085_0_0

 

[Aladinbama]

OK, maybe more narrow question - is there anything special to replacing the front wheel bearings on a ST1100?

By the sound of it, you just tap them out and press or tap them in. I know some bikes are difficult and others are easy, but this seems too easy.
What am I missing?

Mine has 128,000+ and just got new springs and juice up front. I'm thinking the bearings might need refreshing too - lol
To answer the original poster's question - I'm going with an All Balls kit. It's right here with me.

 

[Al st1100]

OK, maybe more narrow question - is there anything special to replacing the front wheel bearings on a ST1100?

By the sound of it, you just tap them out and press or tap them in. I know some bikes are difficult and others are easy, but this seems too easy.
What am I missing?

Mine has 128,000+ and just got new springs and juice up front. I'm thinking the bearings might need refreshing too - lol
To answer the original poster's question - I'm going with an All Balls kit. It's right here with me.

just for information, the right bearing goes in first.

 

[ST1100Y]

just for information, the right bearing goes in first.

Correct for the front wheel...
On the rear the LHS bearing sets the reference...

Actually not many "special" tools required (whilst some do ease the task of course)...
Long flat screwdriver (or a narrow steel rod, tire iron, etc...) to lever the spacer aside and be set on the inner race of the bearing, and hammer it out, left-right-left right, alter positions to keep the bearing true, you'll feel the progress...
According to manual:
front wheel: remove LHS bearing first, then RHS... assemble in reverse order...
rear wheel: remove RHS bearing first, then LHS... assemble in reverse order...
Check and clean the bearing support/center on the wheel
I always apply a slight smear of marine lube...

And I advocate use of OEM grade bearings and seals... (seen and replaced too many early retired aftermarket sets...)
The ones used by Honda have a [DU] rating, maroon colored seal/cover...

A set of assorted drivers is nice to have, but when working carefully a large steel tube, a socket, yet even the old bearings will help getting the new bearings home...
As said: front RHS first, rear LHS first... gentle pounding around the circumference till the dull thumps turn into a bright ring, telling your the bearing is home...
DON'T FORGET INSERTING THE SPACER TUBE!
Smear a good layer of marine lube on it's outside to prevent corrosion..
Put the other bearing in, frequently checking if the inner race is already gaining contact to the spacer tube, it's supposed to touch it only gently... ball bearings don't like axial loads...

Another smear of marine lube into the bearing seat eases installation of the seals, some pop in by hand, others require a driver/old bearing/whatever... gentle tabs...

Then I fill the gap behind the seal and the bearing with more of my marine grease...

Clean speedo gear and give it only a small amount of grease (too much and the plastic gears will shear off...)

Clean the outer spacer tubes from any road grime...
Wipe the axles clean and lube them with a good layer... yes more marine grease

Obey the torque values given in the w/shop manual religiously when assembling everything else... saves expensive damages...

Hint on the bolts holding the RHS caliper on the fork bottom: inspect carefully as they tend to stretch over the years/work cycles...
Replace if in doubt (2 pcs 90107MT3003, bolt flange 8x32 if I'm not mistaken)...
only one(!) drop of Loctite for peace of mind upon installation...

LHS caliper has the anti-dive link, check if the nylon bushing is still sitting in the plunger... remove, clean & lube the upper needle bearing...

PS if you have an "open workshop" with many visitors:
jam a wooden wedge between the pads of each caliper while the wheels are removed, some playful hands might play wit your brake lever/pedal... resulting in a mess...

 

[Chris09]

I bought a blind bearing puller set from KMS Tools when I replaced the rear wheel bearings in my 85 XL600 at about the - thirty years in there - point. The first one came out not too bad, as the second one came out the tool broke.
Took the puller set back with the receipt the same day I bought it and got my money back, how easy was that?
But in the end I still don't have a set of these tools and not sure I trust them; I've bought many types of pullers from KMS and have had good results with them and I know they continued to sell that same kit afterward so they had confidence in their quality.
I wonder if there's any sort of prep that could be done prior to pulling / taping them out or if heat in the right place would reduce the stress on the wheel during the process.

 

[Buckeyechris]

@Trailcrunchers

I recently replaced the front wheel bearings in my ST13, and it is my understanding that the process is nearly identical. Our AuSTrian colleague @ST1100Y describes the process to a "T."

To assist me, I purchased OEM bearings and seals, since they were about the same price as All Balls. Check RonAyers.com. I also purchased the Tusk Bearing Removal Tool to extract the old bearings and this Driver Set to install the new ones. The Driver Set can be configured to have pilot in addition to the driver that is the same size as the axle.

Before you do this, I would remove the wheel and inspect the bearings. If you can move them smoothly with 1 finger, then they may not need replacing. With the right tools, this is a fairly easy job.

 

[Al st1100]

I bought a blind bearing puller set from KMS Tools when I replaced the rear wheel bearings in my 85 XL600 at about the - thirty years in there - point. The first one came out not too bad, as the second one came out the tool broke.
Took the puller set back with the receipt the same day I bought it and got my money back, how easy was that?
But in the end I still don't have a set of these tools and not sure I trust them; I've bought many types of pullers from KMS and have had good results with them and I know they continued to sell that same kit afterward so they had confidence in their quality.
I wonder if there's any sort of prep that could be done prior to pulling / taping them out or if heat in the right place would reduce the stress on the wheel during the process.

heat from a heat gun would not hurt.

 

[ST1100Y]

heat from a heat gun would not hurt.

Never needed such, gentle pounding with my 300g/10oz locksmith's hammer (AKA adjustment tool) does it fine... for removal and installation...
Tried freezing the outer races of head-bearings over night once, no difference... (maybe liquid nitrogen might do it...)

 

[Al st1100]

Never needed such, gentle pounding with my 300g/10oz locksmith's hammer (AKA adjustment tool) does it fine... for removal and installation...
Tried freezing the outer races of head-bearings over night once, no difference... (maybe liquid nitrogen might do it...)

Yea I didn't need much force either and don't think it's nessessary.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Heat from a heat-gun won't do much, they can't produce enough volume of heat to make a difference. The alloy that the wheels are made from are to efficient at conducting heat. By the time that you have one area heated enough to actually make a difference the other areas have already cooled down. Standard home freezer isn't cold enough to do much either, just not cold enough.

Dry ice is what I commonly used to freeze the bearing races, and an oven that the entire wheel could be put in and heated uniformly all over all at once when I worked in an overhaul shop. Using this method the bearing races fell in to place with no need for a press, hammer, or any other external force.

None of this is required to replace wheel bearings in a motorcycle wheel, they just aren't that tight of an interference fit. A hammer correctly used works just fine.

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

My wife will be glad to get the freezer space back.

 

[Aladinbama]

Well I discovered that replacing the front wheel bearings is pretty much a piece of cake.

My only recommendation for anyone would be, after you pull the wheel and get ready to start removing the bearings, use something to just nudge the center spacer over a bit so you can get a tool on the bearing. It moves just enough to provide a good ledge to use to pop it out.

Past that, nothing about this is to be feared, maybe an hour job total taking your time (but I've taken the front wheel of several times and know the procedure).

 

[jfheath]

You can't just pop out the bearings to inspect. Removing them damages them as you have to drive out using the centre race to drag the outer race with it. So once knocked out, they must not be re-used - except perhaps to make tools (see below).

It matters which bearing is put in first. This is because the first bearing sits against a lip in the hub. The second bearing meets the spacer before it meets the lip. Putting them in in the wrong order will put the wheels slightly off centre, which may affect brake caliper alignment and disk clearance, as well as feel a little odd.

You have to stop driving in the bearing as soon as you meet the spacer.

Everything you need here. Download the pdfs. First pdf also shows some homemade tools created from the removed bearing.

Article [13] - ST1300 - Maintenance - Fitting Wheel Bearings - What the manuals don't tell. | ST1300 Articles

A PDF file to describe how to fit a pair of bearings into a wheel of the ST1300. It is straight forward, but if you don't know the correct procedure, there is a good chance of getting it wrong. This pdf explains what things could go wrong, and how to avoid them. A quick rundown and a few...

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