Stock VRR connector on bike side

[John OoSTerhuis]

John....

With my alt issues in my other post I am going to cave in and perform the 40A upgrade. Not really a "cave" but rather a "submit" to suggestions to do the upgrade because ... heck.. Im going deep into the belly of my bike... now is the time to do it!

Let me know when you're ready for the kit and I'll get it to you. Announce when and where and there's a chance you'll have a lot of help, maybe even a previous upgrader. Send me a roundtrip plane ticket with a promise of bed-n-board and I'll hand deliver/assist.

John

 

[IpswichST]

Hmm.... a tempting offer. I very much enjoy the mechanical aspect of these things. Like getting my hands dirty. Ill let you know when I have everything and the time before I request the kit.

Thanks

 

[dmohring]

Well I just put the connector that John sent me on the bike and hooked up the new (used OEM) VRR and got the 14 Volts above 2000 rpm like its supposed to put out. It runs around 13 volts at 900 rpm. So I am in business again. I used a thermal gap filler that I got from where I work and covered the whole backside of the VRR. I checked the temp of the metal VRR frame after the bike was warmed up and boy it gets toasty. Cant touch it for too long. I assume these things are supposed to run pretty warm?

 

[ST1100Y]

It runs around 13 volts at 900 rpm.

I strongly suggest to raise your idle speed:
1100rpm with headlights off
1000rpm with headlights on
Lower settings will not only bring the VRR in turmoil, it also leads to pretty low oil pressure...

I assume these things are supposed to run pretty warm?

I've never measured the temps on mine... (maybe other's did?)
But I guess there is a reason for that aluminium backside/heat-sink being in contact with the large footrest plate...

 

[IpswichST]

Reading about the VRR and how it heats up... sometimes melts and fails... Im going to be relieved after my 40A upgrade. The only problem with the upgrade is that it is so dang expensive and time consuming! but it will be worth it in the end

Good luck

 

[ST1100Y]

Reading about the VRR and how it heats up... sometimes melts and fails...

Ah, one must definitely differentiate between operating temperatures of high power semiconductors under load, and excessive overheating (thus failure of) contacts/wire crimps due to corrosion caused resistance...
Those are two completely different issues.

Also the heat sinks of the VRR bolted to the 40A alternator will get F_hot, only that you don't notice since its out of sight and reach...
Like in stereo amps (or computers) can semiconductors reach some serious temps, way beyond hot to the touch... but once their core reaches 120?C they go with a poof...

 

[IpswichST]

I hear you. Im sure my personal meltdowns were caused by resistance due to corroded connections over time. And Im sure the 40A replacement will certainly get hot. My comment was more aimed at having peace of mind knowing that everything is freshly replaced. Hopefully I perform the procedure flawlessly so there are no issues for years.

 

[Bush]

I've never measured the temps on mine... (maybe other's did?)

Had the opportunity of the use of a temperature probe once and did see the front of the VRR reaching into the low 100's C, (104 C - IIRC) mounted on the bike.

 

[George]

I hear you. Im sure my personal meltdowns were caused by resistance due to corroded connections over time. And Im sure the 40A replacement will certainly get hot. My comment was more aimed at having peace of mind knowing that everything is freshly replaced. Hopefully I perform the procedure flawlessly so there are no issues for years.

Corroded Connectors can fur sure cause 'lectrical failures (and melt downs) over time. Good idea to excercise all the connectors and add 'lectrical paste to each to avoid a repeat. Also, somewhere in the archives is farkle for improving the standard wiring. Seems there's two 16 gauge red/black(?) wires which run up and back thru the ignition switch which can be short-cutted. Don't recall the particulars. Bueller?

 

[Brant]

Ah, one must definitely differentiate between operating temperatures of high power semiconductors under load, and excessive overheating (thus failure of) contacts/wire crimps due to corrosion caused resistance...
Those are two completely different issues.

Also the heat sinks of the VRR bolted to the 40A alternator will get F_hot, only that you don't notice since its out of sight and reach...
Like in stereo amps (or computers) can semiconductors reach some serious temps, way beyond hot to the touch... but once their core reaches 120?C they go with a poof...

+1.........the 40amp swap is STILL no 'magic wand'. Still gotta take care of those 'out of sight-out of mind' connections on occassion....THAT'S peace of mind, IMO.

 

[ST1100Y]

...the 40amp swap is STILL no 'magic wand'.

The one in a friend's '96 blew over an unattended coolant leak (the elbow case)... exposure to liquids/crystals over some time and the caused corrosion simply fried brushes and collectors, blew the end-bearing, and once the "rumble" finally got audible while riding, the bike died on the way to work, right on the shoulder of the motorway with a drained battery...

The 40A units of some UK riders suffered heavy corrosion from the winter-brine on their roads, stator plates swollen from corrosion, cracking the aluminium casings, failing bearings, yet even "seized" engine when the rotor gets stuck in the corroded stator...

Still gotta take care of those 'out of sight-out of mind' connections on occassion...

Motorcycles are like boats or planes: lots of accurately done, preventive maintenance keeps them running trouble free...

As for the 40A unit in my '00 ST: It receives a nice spray of ACF-50 at least once a year, really soaking the stator plates to prevent unseen corrosion in there...
And that stuff also works really great on electrical terminals and contacts, like the bolts of mains-ground wires, exposed crimp-connectors, the contacts of a bike powered GPS cradle, I even successfully "waterproof" printed circuit boards with this product (i.e. the PCB inside the detachable front panel of my Sony car-stereo, or the 5V power supply inside the Garmin cradle)...