Suspension Components Arrived!

Joined
Feb 23, 2007
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72
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Wichita, KS
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'05 ST1300
STOC #
6776
I scored big with the mailman and the UPS guy today. My rebuilt forks from OnRoad/OffRoad in Austin (gold valves, new "big boy" rate springs, seals, and bushings); my spare OEM shock (gold valves, new heavier spring, and complete rebuild) from Race Tech; and my steering stem bearing kit from CBR Bearings all arrived this afternoon. John O has routed the steering stem bearing tool kit my direction, and it should arrive next week. It looks like the ST will be back on the road soon, with upgraded suspension. Now, if I can just improve my riding technique...

While I was on the line with CBR, I also ordered a set of wheel bearings (front and rear) and a driven flange bearing upgrade (roller bearing instead of the OEM ball bearings.) It seemed like a good idea to have them on the shelf in case they were needed, by me or someone else nearby.

By the way, all of these people were great to deal with.
 
Joined
Jun 30, 2009
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89
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New South Wales, Australia
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08 ST1300A
I'd be very interested to see what you think of your rebuilt OEM shock. I'm thinking of going down the Race Tech rebuild path as well. I'm off to the Honda dealer tomorrow to see if I can manage to have my rear shock replaced under warranty. It's only done just over 24000 km's and I don't have any resistance on the preload adjuster until I wind it in about 12 clicks from soft.

I bought my ST new for the purpose of LD, 2 up trips and in my opinion the weak rear spring really lets the bike down.......I expect much better from a tourer of the ST's calibre. I've got to try a warranty claim but if that doesn't work a rebuild is on the cards.
 
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roginoz
Joined
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'05 ST1300
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6776
I've heard of others getting "slack" in the preload adjuster, due to loss of fluid. You can refill the fluid in the preload adjuster. I've seen threads here, or on one of the other ST forums concerning this. A search might turn up the relevant information.

By the way, the Race Tech (http://www.racetech.com/) rebuild for the OEM shock has to be done at the factory in California. The dealers can't do it. I'm not sure if this is a consideration for those of you in Australia. The OEM rebuild was half (or less) of the cost of the new shock Race Tech makes for the ST. They changed the spring, to match my weight. There's a calculator on their web site to determine the specific spring based on your bike and weight. (http://old.racetech.com/evalving/SpringRateCalculation/dirtspring.asp?brand=Honda&yr=04-09&ml=ST1300&formuse=form1&SpringType=Fork&bikeid=284)
 
Joined
Jun 30, 2009
Messages
89
Location
New South Wales, Australia
Bike
08 ST1300A
I've heard of others getting "slack" in the preload adjuster, due to loss of fluid. You can refill the fluid in the preload adjuster. I've seen threads here, or on one of the other ST forums concerning this. A search might turn up the relevant information.
I've read the posts your referring to, I just don't think it's reasonable that you need to pull apart your preload adjuster at such low mileage. Thanks for the additional information re the Race Tech OEM shock rebuild. I should know something about my warranty claim this Monday which will probably determine which way I go. Either way I'm looking forward to your road report!
 
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roginoz
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'05 ST1300
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6776
Halfway (maybe more) Done

Desmo Steve and I got the steering stem bearings changed today. The hardest part was getting the bottom bearing race off the stem. The tapered roller bearings went in easily, thanks to John O's traveling tool set and the shop manual. We got the upgraded forks re-installed, replaced the front wheel and brake calipers, and hooked the fender back up. I imagine that we spend about six hours total, including the original time to remove the forks. We could probably do another one in four hours. Having a second set of hands really helps on this job. I still have to install the SuperBrace, and the front end is finished. The rebuilt/revalved rear shock may have to wait until next weekend, unless we get really enthusiastic tomorrow afternoon.
 

okmurdog

Will Ride for Pie
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Feb 20, 2008
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741
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Harrah, OK
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2014 FJR1300ES
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7351
Any problems getting the tapered bearings set so that bars travel freely (not too tight/loose)?

You'll have a half rebuilt bike just in time for the upcoming RTE's. You'll have to give a full report.


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roginoz
Joined
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They seem to move freely, but I'm going to recheck and possibly re-torque the nut a little later on. I rolled the bike off the lift to do the axle/pinch bolt tightening procedure, and then rolled it back on - and gave up for the night. (It's been a long day, with some other things eating up time.) The tapered bearings apparently don't need much preload, due to the increased bearing surface. The CBR kit had all the parts I needed. Doing the upgrade doesn't seem to be much more trouble than removing and greasing the old ball bearings.
 
Joined
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Canberra, Australia
In Australia RAD in Brisbane does shock rebuilds, including sealed factory shocks. Also fork rechroming etc. Other places also offer this, and have done for years.
 
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roginoz
Joined
Feb 23, 2007
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Done!

Desmo Steve and I got the Race Tech rebuilt OEM rear shock installed Friday. The procedure is basically: (1) disassemble motorcycle, (2) reassemble motorcycle using new shock. Well, not quite that bad, but it somehow managed to take the two of us a whole afternoon to do it. (We did expend some cigar smoking and thinking time...)

After you remove both saddlebags, both of the rear side body pieces have to come off, as well as the right side "step mount" (it's called something like that - it's the cast subframe that holds the rear passenger peg and some other stuff.) You don't have to remove the preload adjusting knob, unless you need to use it on the new shock - the knob will pass through the maze to come out with the shock. If you do remove it, I'd suggest doing it inside of a small plastic bag. This will catch the ball that provides the detent, which will fly off when the knob finally gives way and comes off. (Fortunately, mine bounced off the ceiling and stuck to the top of the bike frame. Sometimes you get lucky.) If you have the dual PowerLet outlets mounted to the preload adjuster mount, take the mount off at the top for easier access to the two bolts that hold the preload adjuster. Pay attention to the routing of the preload adjuster hose, so you can route the new one back the same way. The rear master cylinder reservoir needs to come loose, and the battery and the removeable part (front) of the battery box need to come off. Access to the top shock mounting nut required tipping the fuel tank up (it was full, of course, so we had to find the siphon...) You'll need to drop the rear wheel lower than it will go with the bike on the centerstand (our HF lift has a removeable plate under the rear tire,) and pry on the non-removeable part of the battery box to pull the shock out of the bike. The new shock went in easier than the old one came out. We duct taped the upper mounting nut to the box end wrench for re-installation, so as not to lose it in the bowels of the bike. Be sure that the rebound adjustment screw on the bottom of the shock faces out, so you can access it through the hole in the "step frame." Put back all the stuff you removed, and you're good to go.

It's not as easy as the old days, when we had a shock outboard of everything on each side of the bike, but it's not that bad of a job. We could do another one a lot more quickly. (I'm available if anyone wants an extra, somewhat clumsy, hand with theirs.)

I figure I'm good on suspension for another 50K now. The new and improved ST1500 should be available by the time I rack up the miles...
 
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