swing-arm restoration

Joined
Aug 20, 2016
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Shropshire England
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st1100
hi everybody had idea as i was repainting my st1100 swing arm i,m sure theres a good reason why not .but as a way of stopping or slowing down the rust could a couple of small holes be drilled then the inside sprayed with some sort of cavity wax then sealed back up. as it seem they rust from the inside out i figured this would help as i said its probably a bad idea as i haven't come across of anyone doing this
 
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East Anglia, England
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#1702
Next time you have the wheel out, take off the 'donut' by undoing the four nuts and with a long tube shoot the juice of choice into your swinging arm. You will find plenty of holes that the welders missed.
 
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hi everybody had idea as i was repainting my st1100 swing arm i,m sure theres a good reason why not .but as a way of stopping or slowing down the rust could a couple of small holes be drilled then the inside sprayed with some sort of cavity wax then sealed back up. as it seem they rust from the inside out i figured this would help as i said its probably a bad idea as i haven't come across of anyone doing this
I seem to remember there are already a couple of drilled holes underneath and there are plenty of entry points as mentioned by Roger. Waxoyl from a spray can can't hurt, cheap insurance I would have thought. I've got a spare swingarm on its way from Ohio, so I'll be doing something similar with that once it arrives and after fettling. I will obviously then sell it on ebay in ten years time when I haven't used it.
Upt'North.
 

fnmag

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hi everybody had idea as i was repainting my st1100 swing arm i,m sure theres a good reason why not .but as a way of stopping or slowing down the rust could a couple of small holes be drilled then the inside sprayed with some sort of cavity wax then sealed back up. as it seem they rust from the inside out i figured this would help as i said its probably a bad idea as i haven't come across of anyone doing this
It sounds plausible. Let us know if you decide to implement this idea and what substance you decide to use in the swing arm.
 
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ninjahamster
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st1100
I seem to remember there are already a couple of drilled holes underneath and there are plenty of entry points as mentioned by Roger. Waxoyl from a spray can can't hurt, cheap insurance I would have thought. I've got a spare swingarm on its way from Ohio, so I'll be doing something similar with that once it arrives and after fettling. I will obviously then sell it on ebay in ten years time when I haven't used it.
Upt'North.
wow that must be costing a bit in postage
 
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wow that must be costing a bit in postage
The p and p is a killer but with the price of the unit being real low it works out OK'ish. But I'll have no Guinness money left this month. With the problem I had in April(?) I just want a working swingarm on the shelf should it be needed. The total cost delivered, blasted and painted should be no more than £200.00. If I never use it I'll sell it to you for £400.00. A bargain I hear you cry. Not. Hope you're enjoying the Shropshire summer and no doubt venturing into Wales.
Upt'North.
 
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Some years back, I realized I was chasing the rust on my auto bodies and each time I carefully sanded, primed, and painted it away, it came back even worse. So I did a little research. It seems that rust is an electrochemical reaction, and once started, creates a surface that resembles the topography of the Himalayans. Most every rust preventive method fails because the surface prep is imperfect, and once started, it is virtually impossible to get rid of it all. The gold standard is to grind/sand blast back to clean metal, and dip it in molten zinc - heavy hot dipped galvanizing. This can last a long, long time, but it too will fail because the zinc is sacrificial. Plated zinc is much less effective but aided by several coats of paint the rust can be held at bay for reasonable lengths of time. The problem even here will be sheared edges - building up a thick enough protective film on sharp corners and edges is almost impossible - and not cost effective from the mfr's point of view when your part/swing arm will last 8 years and then they get to sell you a replacement. Welding brings in dissimilar metals - welding rods and wire are alloys - so we are introducing even more galvanic action.

The good news is you can delay the inevitable by frequent flooding of the hollow interior with oil. Waxes (some of them) dry out, shrink and crack and the protective film now has voids. Tar-like compounds are similar. Even worse, is when these thick coatings pull away from the metal and now we have a pocket that can trap moisture. Remember the topography? Once water can inflitrate up a valley under the coating the corrosion returns. Don't forget that as we fight rust, the departments of transportation are doing their best to make ice melting solutions that act faster and stick longer (they add sugar to the brine now) or are 'hotter' which also make bigger, deeper valleys in our steel. The folks who spray the interior of auto body panels with oil have a great idea. And it works if you don't do it only once. So if you want to regularly flood the interior of your swing arm with used motor oil, you can significantly prolong its life. How often do you spray? Please treat a significant sample of swing arms and report back to us. Oh, and note the brand of oil that works the best. (grin)

Seriously, navies have experimented with electronic devices that send an electric current through the ship in opposition to the polarity of the chemical reaction. This works until you find dissimilar metals in a salt water enviroment. Downsides? The hardware costs a fortune or two, and if you get it wrong you can electroplate the ship into the ocean so fast that you can call it a cloaking device as the ship disappears before your very eyes. Paint is cheaper.
 
Last edited:

fnmag

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Some years back, I realized I was chasing the rust on my auto bodies and each time I carefully sanded, primed, and painted it away, it came back even worse. So I did a little research. It seems that rust is an electrochemical reaction, and once started, creates a surface that resembles the topography of the Himalayans. Most every rust preventive method fails because the surface prep is imperfect, and once started, it is virtually impossible to get rid of it all. The gold standard is to grind/sand blast back to clean metal, and dip it in molten zinc - heavy hot dipped galvanizing. This can last a long, long time, but it too will fail because the zinc is sacrificial. Plated zinc is much less effective but aided by several coats of paint the rust can be held at bay for reasonable lengths of time. The problem even here will be sheared edges - building up a thick enough protective film on sharp corners and edges is almost impossible - and not cost effective from the mfr's point of view when your part/swing arm will last 8 years and then they get to sell you a replacement. Welding brings in dissimilar metals - welding rods and wire are alloys - so we are introducing even more galvanic action.

The good news is you can delay the inevitable by frequent flooding of the hollow interior with oil. Waxes (some of them) dry out, shrink and crack and the protective film now has voids. Tar-like compounds are similar. Even worse, is when these thick coatings pull away from the metal. Now we have a pocket that can trap moisture. Remember the topography? Once water can inflitrate up a valley under the coating the corrosion returns. Don't forget that as we fight rust, the departments of transportation are doing their best to make ice melting solutions that act faster and stick longer (they add sugar to the brine now) or are 'hotter' which also make bigger, deeper valleys in our steel. The folks who spray the interior of auto body panels with oil have a great idea. And it works if you don't do it only once. So if you want to regularly flood the interior of your swing arm with used motor oil, you can significantly prolong its life. How often do you spray? Please treat a significant sample of swing arms and report back to us. Oh, and note the brand of oil that works the best. (grin)

Seriously, navies have experimented with electronic devices that send an electric current through the ship in opposition to the polarity of the chemical reaction. This works until you find dissimilar metals in a salt water enviroment. Downsides? The hardware costs a fortune or two, and if you get it wrong you can electroplate the ship into the ocean so fast that you can call it a cloaking device as the ship disappears before your very eyes. Paint is cheaper.
Well, I would think that synthetic oil would work a charm.
Regular dino oil would not provide the amount of protection needed.
Further, dino oil would not last as long as synthetic. :)
 
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Well, I would think that synthetic oil would work a charm.
Regular dino oil would not provide the amount of protection needed.
Further, dino oil would not last as long as synthetic. :)
Not ot make this an oil thread, but dino oil has been around since before the dinos went belly up. Syn oil has no such history. We will have to wait maybe 10,000 years to really know the answer. Let's hope we are still around to find out the answer. Mellow will have a long white beard by then and can moderate THAT oil thread.
 

fnmag

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You're approaching this issue from the wrong perspective.
If science waited for the Luddites to catch up where would that leave us?
Synthetic is the future. Think windmills and solar farms. :)
 
Joined
Sep 24, 2015
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552
Location
East Anglia, England
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ST1100X
STOC #
#1702
Reviving an old thread......
I just want a working swingarm on the shelf should it be needed.
I saw an advert for a re-furbished swinging arm and as I was already thinking '...one day I'll need one...' I bought it quick! I was reassured by seeing before/after photos and by the look of the finished job. I knew it was off an ABS model because the sensor wiring clips were still present. However, I didn't know that there were extra bits of ironwork on an ABS swing arm! :oops: Anyone know why? Price of a new one - that's if they even exist - is approaching £1000! :eek:
Here's a picture of a rough one. (Not mine!)....

1708621812974.png
 
Joined
Sep 24, 2015
Messages
552
Location
East Anglia, England
Bike
ST1100X
STOC #
#1702
Next time you have the wheel out, take off the 'donut' by undoing the four nuts and with a long tube shoot the juice of choice into your swinging arm. You will find plenty of holes that the welders missed.
Haha! I actually lied and no-one called me out. ...I've just bought a s/h swinging arm and there is no channel from the shaft drive tube into any of the box sections. I suppose it's stronger like that? I also expected a drain hole in the shaft drive tube like on the left side, but no. ......Also, can someone confirm that there should be two drain holes in the bottom of the largest box section?

A little aside - the lovely CX500 I once owned - there was a grease nipple to lube the splined joint on the end of the shaft. Why not on the ST1100?
 
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