Top up fork oil?

[Jimmy Jo]

Hey guys I'm brand new here, so hello and a cheery day to all. Mine is a 2002 ST 1100 with about 52,000 miles, of which I've put about 30,000 on. I love this bike!
Went to put on new tires and discovered left fork seal leaking badly. Cleaned the seal with a "Seal Mate" tool. Is it ok to just open the top plug and top up the oil?
Also, what is the correct measurement from the top of the fork? The front suspension chapter in my Clymer manual is incredibly confusing to me! (Or maybe I'm just not very smart.)
Anyhow, I don't want to take the time to break down the fork until winter. Just want to get by through riding season. Thanks for any advice you may offer, and I hope you all have a safe and happy summer!
Hey! do you know why the motorcycle couldn't stand up by itself???
Clue: It was two tired!

 

[TerryS]

Honda specifies two methods to reach the correct fork oil, either adding a measured volume to an empty fork, or adding oil to a specified level within the fork. Sounds like you are trying to do the latter, just note that to do it correctly, the fork must be fully compressed and without the springs. That is easy enough on the TRAC fork, the cartridge fork will need the cap unscrewed from the damper rod so the spring can be removed. The caps are under spring pressure, be warned.

 

[Jimmy Jo]

Honda specifies two methods to reach the correct fork oil, either adding a measured volume to an empty fork, or adding oil to a specified level within the fork. Sounds like you are trying to do the latter, just note that to do it correctly, the fork must be fully compressed and without the springs. That is easy enough on the TRAC fork, the cartridge fork will need the cap unscrewed from the damper rod so the spring can be removed. The caps are under spring pressure, be warned.

Terry, thanks very much for your reply. It is the left fork I'm dealing with so according to the chart, the level should be 7.4" from the top with the fork fully compressed (standard model). Did I understand correctly?

 

[Bush]

Yes you did.

 

[Bush]

Looking at your picture, I note that you appear to have that rear rack quite heavily loaded. Be advised that the sub frame that supports the rack via the four bolts is not well designed and is prone to cracking if more than about 10 pounds is loaded back there.

Pull the seat and look at the subframe. Cracks will happen where Honda put holes in that part.

 

[dwalby]

what looks like a lot of oil on the fork tubes isn't enough to make any difference in the fork action, so doing nothing is probably your best option at this point.

When you eventually remove the fork from the bike this winter, change the fork oil and do the oil measurement at that time.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I'd just wait til the winter like Doug said.
I rode one of my ST1100s with leaking fork seal for thousands of miles before I had them rebuilt.

 

[dwalby]

I rode one of my ST1100s with leaking fork seal for thousands of miles before I had them rebuilt.

which week was that??

 

[Arkterra]

Diddo on rebuilding the fork with fresh seals at your first opportunity. I took the rebuild to use 10w fork oil and really like the difference from the 5w spec for my ST1100. If you've never done it before it can seem intimidating but on the other side you'll be glad you did it yourself. Not very hard. You will need some snap ring pliers for the right hand fork due to the beefy snap ring in the fork with the anti-dive mechanism in it.

I didn't rebuild my anti-dive mechanism when I did the fork seal R&R but I kind of wish I did just for peace of mind.

 

[Jimmy Jo]

Looking at your picture, I note that you appear to have that rear rack quite heavily loaded. Be advised that the sub frame that supports the rack via the four bolts is not well designed and is prone to cracking if more than about 10 pounds is loaded back there.

Pull the seat and look at the subframe. Cracks will happen where Honda put holes in that part.

Thanks Bush, I'll check it out. I am guilty of riding heavily loaded, but hey, at least I don't have a 250 pound significant other back there!

 

[Jimmy Jo]

Diddo on rebuilding the fork with fresh seals at your first opportunity. I took the rebuild to use 10w fork oil and really like the difference from the 5w spec for my ST1100. If you've never done it before it can seem intimidating but on the other side you'll be glad you did it yourself. Not very hard. You will need some snap ring pliers for the right hand fork due to the beefy snap ring in the fork with the anti-dive mechanism in it.

I didn't rebuild my anti-dive mechanism when I did the fork seal R&R but I kind of wish I did just for peace of mind.

Thanks! I'm planning to rebuild them this winter. And I do have the snap ring pliers.