Valve Checking.... parts needed?

[cruzer1800]

Hey guys, read a LOT if not all of the info on here that I could find about doing the deed.. New to ME '05 ST1300 w 58K miles, no idea if it has ever been done so going to give it a shot. To keep it as brief and painful as possible, I thought it would be good to have all the tools./parts I need before diving in. Considering getting a shim kit off fleabay so can have all various sizes on hand if needed, some rtv/sealent stuff, specail tool from the shop manual (going to make that). What I DONT know (it is a long list) is what kind of gaskets, O rings, washers, ect. I might need to have on hand to replace during the job. Valve cover gasket sounds like it is reusable but what about anything else needing replaced while I am in there? Any advice kindly appreciated. Newbs.... I know...
Previous bike and previous forum I was one of the old guys... now I'm starting all over again!??! =)

 

[dwalby]

1100 owner here so I can't comment on the 1300 specific seals needed, but I'd wait until you check the clearances before buying a shim kit. First, you may not need any shims at all, and second the shim kits typically work in 0.05mm increments and you may want/need one of the 0.025mm shims. Some shops will swap shims with you either for free, or for less than a new shim, and even if you have to buy a shim or two they're not that expensive.

I think there may be a shim kit available on this forum as well, but I'm not sure who to contact, perhaps someone else can provide that info.

 

[klaproth]

Might be a good idea to replace the seals under the valve cover retaining bolts. Those seem to go before the valve cover seal.

 

[TerryS]

I checked my 1300 valves a few months back, same sort of situation as you with no knowledge of prior servicing.

You need to remove the bodywork to gain access to the valve covers and the crank end cover to turn the engine over. But after that longitudinal V engines have to be the best ever for valve access!

Klaproth's suggestion is very good, I don't believe the valve cover gaskets themselves age but all the clamping force is applied by those rubber washers under the hold-down bolts. These CANNOT be tighened further to clamp more, as the bolts are already bottomed out when tight and more tight leads to snapping and swearing sounds. Sealant is then only required on the half-moon cutouts. Careful when you replace the left cam cover, its very easy to trap the rubber mat under the airbox and cause a messy leak.

If you do access the cam tensioners access bolts, they have copper sealing washers under them that could be replaced but if you are cheap like me they don't really need to be. To get to the cam tensioner for the right cylinders is less fun and requires the airbox base to be removed. I used a ground down flat screwdriver to loosen the cam tensioner on that side, I tried a cut down feeler gauge to match the special tool described but it did not feel very good. Getting to the left tensioner requires some hoses to be nudged sideways and then the bolt can be easily dropped into the V of no return; it is also non-ferrous so magnets can't be used for fishing. I used some BlueTac on the socket and made sure all the sockets were held tight with some duct tape.

You may as well replace the spark plugs while you have them out, and the air filter if it looks grotty.

 

[SMSW]

As @TerryS said, be very careful tightening the valve cover hold down bolts. And get them turning with your fingers before using a wrench - it is easy to cross thread these.

If you don't want down time waiting for parts - shims, you might talk to a local MC shop. You might find a friendly service dept that will swap the shims you have for what you need, or you can buy the kit and resell it here. I'm pretty sure Suzuki uses the same size shims in their VStroms.