Wheel bearing tool

[Roger]

Is this the easiest/quickest/cheapest 'tool' to pop out those wheel bearings? A few minutes with a hot air gun to warm the hub, insert and tighten the 20mm expanding bolt from the outside, a couple of blows all the way through from the other side. All done! So easy!

 

[Upt' North]

And in addition to Roger's suggestion, it is imperative not to use your thumb as a damper between the hammer and drift .
Upt'North.

 

[Roger]

Forgot to show the side that gets hit - after it was hit!.....
...And just in case it all goes wrong https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-a-Finger-Hit-by-a-Hammer .....

 

[Upt' North]

Forgot to show the side that gets hit - after it was hit!.....
...And just in case it all goes wrong https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-a-Finger-Hit-by-a-Hammer .....

Very helpful .

 

[DeanR]

Link for that tool Roger?

 

[Uncle Phil]

Roger - Is that is just a 'standard' 20MM anchor bolt (what we call them on this side of the pond)?

 

[Roger]

Yes UP, a shield anchor bolt similar to this rubbish one, - don't ask! Needs to be of better quality like at https://www.rawlplug.co.uk/rwl-categories/shield-anchors/ I used loads at work about 40 years ago! I'd rather have had the type with a threaded shaft and nut on the end, being stronger at the end I was going to strike, but I couldn't get one locally. With mine, I adjusted the bolt to be flush at the wedge end and used an extra nut to expand it tight in the bearing.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Roger - Thanks! I never thought about using one for that purpose but that makes a lot of sense.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Pretty inventive! Similar idea/tool as the custom removers (20mm, 25mm) in the STOC free loaner ST1100/ST1300 Wheel Bearing R&R Tool Kit (link):


John

 

[SMSW]

Nice small hammer you have there. It should do a real number on the errant finger.

 

[STraymond]

Pretty inventive! Similar idea/tool as the custom removers (20mm, 25mm) in the STOC free loaner ST1100/ST1300 Wheel Bearing R&R Tool Kit (link):


John

John - is this tool still available for borrowing!

Ray

 

[SMSW]

Having needed concrete anchors like the OP used for (gasp!) anchoring something to concrete, I've found obtaining them to be difficult if you need only a few of them. Most of the fastener houses* I've hit want to sell a whole box and larger sizes tend to get expensive in box quantities. I never tried the big box stores, or even a good hardware store so those would be a good place to start.

This is a great idea. BTW, Harbor Fright sells a blind bearing puller set.

Hilti? Their prices are v. high but the quality is commensurate. They only sell complete boxes, but if you have an account and a salesman, he can get you samples...sometimes. Fastenall? My experience w/ them has varied w/ the guy behind the counter

 

[jfheath]

I have often wondered why the bearing has to be tapped into place when refitting - when a long threaded rod and a torque wrench to pull bearing through would give a much more precise seat, and eliminate the hammer/knucke interface.

 

[klaproth]

I have often wondered why the bearing has to be tapped into place when refitting - when a long threaded rod and a torque wrench to pull bearing through would give a much more precise seat, and eliminate the hammer/knucke interface.

I like the idea of using a threaded rod, and some properly sized washers to "draw" the bearings in, but I wouldn't get that satisfying sound when the bearing is properly seated! You know, that flat sound, when the bearing OD or ID hits the proper seat?

 

[jfheath]

Yes - I know the sound. I was thinking of the issues when installing the second bearing, because that does not seat on a lip in the hub. Instead, you stop driving as soon as the inner race meets up with the spacer tube. Get that wrong and one of a couple of things will happen:

• The bearing doesn't quite meet up with the tube - I mean there is a hairs breadth gap. In which case, when tightening the axle will push the centre race of the bearing the bit extra putting a side load on the bearing.
• The bearing is hammered too hard against the spacer so that the spacer tube presses out on the inner race of the already installed bearing - putting a side load on it.

It's a fine line, and can result in the bearings not running freely. I have this idea that a draw bar with thick bearing insertion tools would pull them together, and a (low) torque setting would be a good indication of when enough is enough. Take out the guesswork.

I once tried supporting the opposit bearing with another bearing driver which was resting on the work bench with the wheel on top of it. I then hammered in the top bearing knowing that it couldn't side load the bearing because both ends were supported with a full diameter, 2cm thick bearing driver. I'd be able to feel the ring when everything met up. Perfect.

But when I tightened the axle, the bearings were too tight. I haven't got a clue why that went wrong. Now when the tube gets clsoe to the inner race I feel after each tap so that I can stop the instant that the two meet. That, for some reason, works better.

Of course, the far worse scenario is if you drive in the bearing without first checking which one should go in first !

 

[SMSW]

I have often wondered why the bearing has to be tapped into place when refitting

I would guess at a couple of reasons. When using a threaded rod to draw it in, the bearing might hang up and not seat all the way in, whereas a light hammer tap applies max force at the moment of impact to jar the bearing past any stiction. Second, Honda was probably thinking of mechanics doing this, and tapping the bearing in will be faster than drawing it in, especially when done by practiced techs - who would tap the bearing in regardless of instructions otherwise. Just guessing on my part.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

John - is this tool still available for borrowing!

Ray

Yes. See the link to get started, Ray.

John

 

[STraymond]

Yes. See the link to get started, Ray.

John

Ok, thanks!

 

[ST Gui]

Yes. See the link to get started, Ray.

John

But he'll have to provide his own Mjölnir.