Winterizing a 1993 st1100, Chicago area

[karuzo]

Hi all,
I searched and saw few posts on this, but for my own sanity I need to post on this. 1993 st1100. Chicago. Will be stored inside un-heated garage. I plan to cover the bike, cover holes, battery tender, stabilizer in the fuel tank, place on center stand and rotate tires once a week or so. I prepare to replace oil and oil filter when the riding season is back again. Other than that, anything else to be doing? I read through the service manual to make sure the cooling system is filled with a 50/50% antifreeze solution. I can only assume when I bought the bike couple of weeks ago that this is what's there (could be a different solution?)... The service manual also indicates carburetor draining...
Thanks.

 

[Bush]

Change the oil and filter before you store it for winter. You don't want potentially contaminated oil and the acids it contains sitting in the engine over winter. Fill the fuel tank and add stabilizer, as to avoid a large air space where condensation can occur inside the tank.

Draining the carbs is a real PITA on this bike, as the drain screws are quite hard to locate under the carb bank. Now, I usually had my 1100 in winter storage for about 6 months and the carbs were not drained, so to prevent them from drying out, I routinely, once a month, ran the engine for a good 15 to 20 minutes to keep the carbs filled and to ensure the engine was fully up to operating temperature and the exhaust system was hot as well. Gummed up carbs from drying out means a total overhaul job on them.

This prevented condensation inside the engine and exhaust system, which will form if the engine is only run briefly. So, if you can't get those carbs drained, I suggest you do that as well and top off the fuel tank over the winter as well.

I trust you are using a non silicate antifreeze in the bike, as that additive to some AF mixtures will destroy the water pump seal. The usual recommendation is to use Honda Type 2 coolant from a Honda car dealer, sold by the gallon, which will last you for a few years of AF changes.

 

[rjs987]

What's this "winterizing" thing you speak of?
Oh yeah, I remember now. That's something I did to my GL1500 Gold Wing back in 2002 and 2003. I did all that you said except cover the bike and drain the carbs. During those 2 years I parked my GW in the back of my unheated but attached garage for 4 months in central Iowa (sometimes temps dropped below zeroF in the garage). I did put in Sta-Bil for the last one or two tanks of gas that I burned before I parked it. That was to ensure the treatment was run throughout the engine fuel system including the carbs. Did the same treatment with my mowers and snowblowers in their off season. Never had issues with carbs as long as the treated gas was run through out the engine. Also just made sure there was a proper 50/50 mix of normal coolant in the cooling system. Should be just the normal aluminum engine coolant mix. I never ran the engine during storage but did keep it plugged into a battery maintainer like the Battery Tender. A short heat with a long cool cycling of the engine (like running the engine to warm it up and then letting it sit for several weeks) is not good to do and will promote condensation.

 

[karuzo]

What's this "winterizing" thing you speak of?
Oh yeah, I remember now. That's something I did to my GL1500 Gold Wing back in 2002 and 2003. I did all that you said except cover the bike and drain the carbs. During those 2 years I parked my GW in the back of my unheated but attached garage for 4 months in central Iowa (sometimes temps dropped below zeroF in the garage). I did put in Sta-Bil for the last one or two tanks of gas that I burned before I parked it. That was to ensure the treatment was run throughout the engine fuel system including the carbs. Did the same treatment with my mowers and snowblowers in their off season. Never had issues with carbs as long as the treated gas was run through out the engine. Also just made sure there was a proper 50/50 mix of normal coolant in the cooling system. Should be just the normal aluminum engine coolant mix. I never ran the engine during storage but did keep it plugged into a battery maintainer like the Battery Tender. A short heat with a long cool cycling of the engine (like running the engine to warm it up and then letting it sit for several weeks) is not good to do and will promote condensation.

Thank you. When I got the bike, you can tell it was taken care for, so I'll assume that the mix in the cooling system is proper.
Do you think with stabilizer, I can simply put inside a full tank (amount per manufacturer) and ride the bike of 30 minutes?
Thanks.

 

[karuzo]

Change the oil and filter before you store it for winter. You don't want potentially contaminated oil and the acids it contains sitting in the engine over winter. Fill the fuel tank and add stabilizer, as to avoid a large air space where condensation can occur inside the tank.

Draining the carbs is a real PITA on this bike, as the drain screws are quite hard to locate under the carb bank. Now, I usually had my 1100 in winter storage for about 6 months and the carbs were not drained, so to prevent them from drying out, I routinely, once a month, ran the engine for a good 15 to 20 minutes to keep the carbs filled and to ensure the engine was fully up to operating temperature and the exhaust system was hot as well. Gummed up carbs from drying out means a total overhaul job on them.

This prevented condensation inside the engine and exhaust system, which will form if the engine is only run briefly. So, if you can't get those carbs drained, I suggest you do that as well and top off the fuel tank over the winter as well.

I trust you are using a non silicate antifreeze in the bike, as that additive to some AF mixtures will destroy the water pump seal. The usual recommendation is to use Honda Type 2 coolant from a Honda car dealer, sold by the gallon, which will last you for a few years of AF changes.

Ok, thanks. This all makes sense. I heard some say, if you change the oil and filter before storing, you'd need to replace the oil again when season come, as the oil 'sits' for a while which is not good? I assume operating the bike as you indicate will get it to 'move'?
Thanks.

 

[Bush]

I heard some say, if you change the oil and filter before storing, you'd need to replace the oil again when season come, as the oil 'sits' for a while which is not good? I assume operating the bike as you indicate will get it to 'move'?

Nonsense. Oil sits in containers on shelves for long periods and it certainly won't hurt the engine to have some lubrication happening once in a while over the winter. It will still be fine to use in the spring as well, as long as you ensure the engine is fully heated each time, which boils off any condensation that may occur just from the engine sitting in cold/warmer days over a winter.

As to the stabilizer, I always ran the tank down as much as possible before winter and dropped in the appropriate amount of Stabil when I filled up at the station, just before putting the bike to bed. The few miles ride home is sufficient to get it into the carbs. I also filled that last tank with non ethanol fuel at a Chevron station (where available).

 

[ReSTored]

As recommended, change the oil and filter before storing.

Re stabilizer I put in at local gas station, topped up tank and rode home, about 10 minutes total. You don't need to ride for 30 minutes.

in 18 seasons I never drained the carbs and never started the bike mid storage season. Stored mid November and started next in early April. Never any issues with this. Key thing is to use stabilizer, IMO.

 

[karuzo]

Nonsense. Oil sits in containers on shelves for long periods and it certainly won't hurt the engine to have some lubrication happening once in a while over the winter. It will still be fine to use in the spring as well, as long as you ensure the engine is fully heated each time, which boils off any condensation that may occur just from the engine sitting in cold/warmer days over a winter.

As to the stabilizer, I always ran the tank down as much as possible before winter and dropped in the appropriate amount of Stabil when I filled up at the station, just before putting the bike to bed. The few miles ride home is sufficient to get it into the carbs. I also filled that last tank with non ethanol fuel at a Chevron station (where available).

Ah. Thanks. It all makes sense.

 

[karuzo]

As recommended, change the oil and filter before storing.

Re stabilizer I put in at local gas station, topped up tank and rode home, about 10 minutes total. You don't need to ride for 30 minutes.

in 18 seasons I never drained the carbs and never started the bike mid storage season. Stored mid November and started next in early April. Never any issues with this. Key thing is to use stabilizer, IMO.

Thanks. It seems there are different opinions/methods that people follow. All seem legit.

 

[kiltman]

Another northerner here. I fill up with premium fuel the non ethanol version before storage. Put the battery on an optima charger. I let the beast hibernate from November to April. If it’s due for an oil change prior to storage because of mileage I do so, if not I wait till it’s due in the spring. I’ve had no issues from doing it this way.

 

[SMSW]

Some guys advocate filling the tank with non-ethanol gas before storage. I've never done that - just fill the tank, add stabil and let it sit. One year i had to crank it for a while in the spring, after that i did the once a month run for 20 min routine. Do not forget to put a battery tender on the battery. Parasitic loads plus a lead acid battery will discharge a few percent a month will decrease the capacity of the battery in 4 or 5 months (sulfation). A smart maintainer/charger will keep it up to snuff. If you have critters in your garage, you might consider spreading a few mouse traps around under the bike loaded with peanut butter. Or do what @Igofar does....he has rattlesnakes guarding his bikes.

 

[Sunday Rider]

Same as Restored, plus:
I take the seat off disconnect the fuel pump wires, start the engine and let it run until it starved from gas, then drain oil and change filter. Hookup smart battery charger. After bike has cooled down, I plug muffler with rags. One year I started in spring and all these sunflower seed shells blew out of the exhaust. I never start the bike once the oil has been changed. I also take the seat and panniers in the house. If I plan on doing any maintenance, I take off the plastic in the areas I will be working and bring those parts in the house too. Some years I’ve put a cover on the bike, but I worry mice will hide under it, so haven’t covered it in the last few years.

 

[rjs987]

I learned to put dryer softener sheets around the bike and my camper (pulled by my bike in season) that did really well keeping the rodents out. Put a sheet in the fork tunnel and under the seat or near the air box as well as sticking out the exhausts. I'd put a few sheets around in the folds of my pop-up camper to protect that.

Then I started riding all year during some of the coldest times of the year (since 2004) so just did that dryer sheet thing on my camper when I still had that. I rode the bike at least every few weeks even if temps were well below zeroF so didn't need to worry about it on the bike.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

so I'll assume that the mix in the cooling system is proper.

Don't assume that, the result could be a cracked block. Buy an antifreeze tester for a few bucks and make sure.

I never start the bike once the oil has been changed.

If you don't start it after changing the oil you might as well wait until spring to change it. Without starting it the new oil isn't flushing the old oil out of the engine. All that is being accomplished is to have new oil sitting in the bottom of the oil pan, with no benefit to the engine.

 

[karuzo]

Another northerner here. I fill up with premium fuel the non ethanol version before storage. Put the battery on an optima charger. I let the beast hibernate from November to April. If it’s due for an oil change prior to storage because of mileage I do so, if not I wait till it’s due in the spring. I’ve had no issues from doing it this way.

Right. Some say oil change before, some say after. Seems as both ways work. What year is your bike?

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

People have been parking vehicles for extended periods for a long time, no oil change first. Pre corn fuel they didn't even add anything to the tank, some corn free fuel if available and/or stabilizer should do the trick. Conversely, maybe a heated jacket and gloves and some seat time on the mild days, fill it back up before you park it. Tenders are always good.

 

[kiltman]

Right. Some say oil change before, some say after. Seems as both ways work. What year is your bike?

I’ve had three, a 1990, a 97 ABSII and currently a 2002 ABSII. As for the oil, if I was using non synthetic I would be in the camp of changing before storage, given that I do use synthetic I pretty much stick to what I do in my initial post.

 

[Sunday Rider]

Don't assume that, the result could be a cracked block. Buy an antifreeze tester for a few bucks and make sure.

If you don't start it after changing the oil you might as well wait until spring to change it. Without starting it the new oil isn't flushing the old oil out of the engine. All that is being accomplished is to have new oil sitting in the bottom of the oil pan, with no benefit to the engine.

I should have clarified I do spin it with the starter so oil gets sloshed around and check level, but don’t run it periodically was my point.

 

[Erdoc48]

Sorry I’m late to this- in the past (in NJ), I would use the ethanol specific Stabil formula (sold at Lowes in the lawnmower section) at the proper mix, fill the tank (we didn’t have the ethanol free fuel, at least near my home at the time), run it pretty much from the gas station to home, put it on the Tender, and that was it. I never had a start issue in the spring. Here in SC, nothing…just run them all year round. I think even turning the tires is probably not needed unless the bike was sitting for a really long time, like a year or more- you might want to pump them up just a bit higher than spec as they will lose PSI due to the cold as well as some lesser loss through the rubber (to avoid any potential of flat spotting but I think this is still pretty unlikely).

 

[red one]

Just wanted to add no bike cover. It gives mice a nice dark quiet home to nest under your bike.