Wrapped header pipes. Good idea?

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Apr 9, 2011
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Canton, GA
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2006 ST1300
First, I always ceramic coat the pipes inside and out prior to wrapping - even stainless pipes, because they are usually inexpensive rustable 304 grade.
Lee, Where do you get this done? Approximate cost? Looks like a good idea if not too spendy. I'd like to try wrapping my 1300 pipes.

Thanks!
 
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Lee, Where do you get this done? Approximate cost? Looks like a good idea if not too spendy. I'd like to try wrapping my 1300 pipes.

Thanks!
The ones in the picture were done a couple of years ago by MR-Coatings in Kodak, TN. I don't remember the price. I haven't put them to use yet, but it certainly looks like they have done a good job. It used to be difficult to find a ceramic coater and I was using Performance Coatings in Washington state. Jet-Hot is the "known brand" but I have never used them. Now days just about every powder coater says they can do it. There are also plenty of people doing DIY. The key to success, to me, seems to be surface preparation. Even a new set of stainless pipes has mill scale, oil, and the smooth finish to deal with. I prefer to stick with someone who has exhaust system experience.

Since a set of used headers on eBay is about $60-80, you might just buy a spare set and do it at risk. You'd also save loss of use while the coating was being done. We have people here reporting no issues. I'm not suggesting that everyone follow me. I tend towards solutions that are rigorous and have the highest probability of a good outcome. I don't know if it is my pharmaceutical and engineering background or if I wuz just born this way. It's just how I roll. That is not warranted in every case and there may be a shorter route around the barn. My input on this started from some assertions that it always ends badly with rusted through pipes. Anything that can be done can be overdone or done wrong. The results you get from that cannot be extrapolated broadly. They are results of the particular actor with his materials, processes, and environmental conditions. I believe that the benefits of wrapping the pipes is significant when the pipes are contained within a fairing. Whether it can be achieved with a less rigorous approach than mine is worth consideration.
 
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Joined
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My pipes have been wrapped for about 10 years and they are not coated. The fact that they are Stainless Steel helps I'm sure. No rust that I'm aware off, but I'm not going to unwrap them to check. No exhaust noise or rust mark's on the garage floor though.
Do you recall how what quantity of "wrap" you used for a 1300? 1"X50'? I've read that 50 ' of the 1" wrap is sufficient, but wanted to make sure, since I'll be ordering it online.

Thanks!
 

mlheck

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I can't remember what I did yesterday. This was 10 years ago so I can't really help you now.

Sorry
 
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I wrapped the headers on my 07 when I got it. My personal reaction is that it didn't lower the heat enough to make a difference and it didn't add enough horsepower to notice. It DID make me itch like crazy for two days.

I do not believe the heat issue is a header issue. Personally I think the heat coming from the radiator and engine block is the issue . I have had drilled body work, insulating pads, wrapped headers, etc., but the only think that has made a difference in the heat is the baker air wings. They direct cool air into the dead air pocket where your legs are and the hot air collects, effetively blowing the heat away. Everything else was useless.

I think an effective cure would be to fabricate some body work to move the heat from the radiator and block out thru the body work in a different fashion that it does now. I considered trying the equivalent of hood scoops on the side cowls since I have some spare body work but haven't gotten the courage to cut the up yet.

Bob
 

HOS

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Hello folks, When removing tupperware for cleaning, I noticed the PO had wrapped all the header pipes in that fiberglass insulating header wrap. I have never been a fan of that stuff where it shows on a bike. On the ST, its hidden by the bodywork. I imagine it was done in an attempt to help aleviate the ST's heat issues. Is it a good idea , and should I leave it be, or should I remove it? I have heard that it can exacerbate corrosion of the pipes, but I think the ST exhaust is stainless steel.
What are the groups thoughts?
Rick.
On a side note, I wondered if this may protect the knock sensor and it's wire harness. Mine had the light come on the day I bought it and the dealer had to change it and the ECM for free. I know there is a service bulletin regarding rerouting the wires on the right side( as you sit on the bike). I need to see if he followed the new routing. But reducing the heat couldn't hurt.
 
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On a side note, I wondered if this may protect the knock sensor and it's wire harness. Mine had the light come on the day I bought it and the dealer had to change it and the ECM for free. I know there is a service bulletin regarding rerouting the wires on the right side( as you sit on the bike). I need to see if he followed the new routing. But reducing the heat couldn't hurt.
they make thermal insulation for wiring like https://www.racetronix.biz/p/thermal-wrap-fg-aluminized-4x3-4/299-t6f0.75sv Might be a little easier to install
. You will have to look around for the right size
1594687905564.png
 
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Apr 23, 2014
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Shenandoah Valley Virginia
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2006 ST1300
Do you recall how what quantity of "wrap" you used for a 1300? 1"X50'? I've read that 50 ' of the 1" wrap is sufficient, but wanted to make sure, since I'll be ordering it online.

Thanks!
Just wrapped one side of my "06" ST1300. I used 25' for the 2 header pipes going down to about 3" past where the pipes are welded into the collector. This is a few inched short of the kickstand and is not visible when the fairing is on. I would have liked about 3"-4" more on the wrap but was satisfied. I used 1" wrap and overlapped 1/3 to 1/2 of the width. Will start on the right side of the bike in a week or so. Note that the last few wraps were on the welded collector portion of the pipe and this really consumes the tape. Overall, 25' per side should do the trick. I'm happy with it.
 
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Shenandoah Valley Virginia
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2006 ST1300
I followed along one of the posts on the forum (or U-tube). I didn't ride enough with the stock mufflers to even determine if it helped although I believe it did. I added a pair of Delkavic stubby mufflers as the forum post suggested so that the heat could exit the exhaust quicker. Overall, the heat is much improved and no cat converter as the stock mufflers contain the cat converter. A 13-16 pound reduction in weight. Sitting and idling I can smell the fiberglass tape just a little bit. At first, there was a lot of smoke and odor. But after a couple rides it was greatly reduced. I probably have 2-3k miles on the new set-up. I'm happy with it. Sorry no pics but the forum (or U-tube) had several and it was the same with my installation. Not difficult at all.
 
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Mar 3, 2013
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Ojai
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ST1300
Thanks for all the replies, Folks. Maybe the stuff does work to reduce heat to the rider. The temps here in Southern Arizona have been over 100F every day, and I have not felt excessive heat coming off the bike, except for the lower rear edge of the fuel tank, which feels pretty warm after a highway ride. The previous owner informed me that he did not install it.The wrap was installed by the Hannigan dealer, when they installed the sidecar, as the subframe runs pretty close to the headers below the engine, so I may be better off to leave it in place.
Thanks alot
Rick.
I realize this is an old post but I just wrapped my headers and am amazed how much cooler the bike is. The 2 fairing pockets used to get very hot but not anymore. I would leave your headers wrapped, especially in Az.
 
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The problem with erosion in the pipe is connected to the heat inside the pipe, not rust on the outside. When the exhaust heat is insulated from transferring to the open air it becomes a bit softer on the inside and on some applications will begin to erode from the inside out. The ten years of use is the first long term time I have heard of this wrap, it was a question that I was curious about too. Most of the time I hear of the wrap are on unfaired bikes which usually have aftermarket pipes and are generally garage queens only ridden to the bars.
Also it seems that when bikes or cars are customized they tend to be sold shortly afterwards.
But, in marine engine rooms I have seen a lot of wrapped turbos and pipes and those turbos glow in the dark from the heat, the benefit is they never shut down so the oil doesn't cook and the cold side is open.
I have to believe any internal erosion is going to be close to the head and wrapping downstream, would have little effect on the pipe failure though which would still help with controlling heat.
 
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