Electrical problem, but don't know where to start

michael_bluth

michael_bluth

but my name is Brian
Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
14
Location
Maryland
Bike
2007 ST1300
For the past week or so, when I go to start the ST1300, the battery has been weak and the clock, trip odometer, etc are getting reset. I charge the battery daily, and ride daily, but have also noticed that my connection to the battery tender, using a powerlet adapter has become iffy. Depending on the rotation of the connector, the red light flashes like there is no connection. If I do get it right, it charges to green every morning. I am not sure if the battery is on its last legs, if the powerlet has gone bad, if the battery tender has gone bad (not really charging), if there is some kind of drain on the battery, or if it's a problem with the starter. Many possibilities, but if there are some relatively simple checks anyone can suggest, I'd like to try to fix the problem or at least narrow it down if I have to take it to a shop. I can get my hands on a volt meter and enough tools to remove parts to check connections. Thanks for any help anyone can provide.

Brian
 
what they said,,,start easy and work into it....connections always get me sooner or later....measure voltage on batt, if its not getting past 12V ...replace it...if its ok...start looking into aux, added,(lights - audio - gps,ect... if you think that's ok, it's time to start looking into charging parts, Voltage reg, rectifier ( if ST has one,,? and alt....) good luck! I hate electrical gremlins!
 
Also check the connections on the starter relay are clean and good and as already said, check the connections on the battery at both ends of the cable......
 
Thanks for all suggestions. If I can't find the starter relay, I'll let you know. ;)
 
Battery connections are clean and tight. For the life of me, can't find my volt meter. Will have to buy another tomorrow and check voltage.
 
If your riding daily and the battery is not holding up, I,m going with a failing battery. I would replace, IMHO !
MIKE
 
You need to load test the battery first, if that proves you have a dying battery then it is time to replace it.
 
+1 on Battery, Brian, especially since it is a daily rider (experiencing more cycling than just sitting on the Tender for long periods of time, at voltage). How old is the battery?
michael_bluth said:
...
but have also noticed that my connection to the battery tender, using a powerlet adapter has become iffy. Depending on the rotation of the connector, the red light flashes like there is no connection. If I do get it right, it charges to green every morning....
Click to expand...
Regarding this point, the Tender should flash at you and not attempt a charge if polarity is reversed...it sounds like it is doing it's job. But it is concerning though that you can reverse the polarity as connectors are usually designed to fit only one way; sounds like you've a nonstandard connection.
 
Battery is nearing 3 years, maybe 4. I'm not reversing polarity - it's a powerlet adapter attached to the tender. Since it would only 'conect' based on the rotation of the connector, I thought there might be a problem with the powerlet or tender itself. Getting a multimeter today to check the battery after charge, removing float charge, then load charge. I'll post the results later today.
In anticipation of a bad battery, what is the best replacement and where to order? I saw previous posts about Two Brothers, but not sure if they still sell batteries. The posts are pretty old. I'd like to get a maintenance free battery.
 
Last edited:
michael_bluth said:
For the past week or so, when I go to start the ST1300, the battery has been weak and the clock, trip odometer, etc are getting reset. I charge the battery daily, and ride daily
Click to expand...

If you ride daily (more than a short distance) AND the clock resets the battery's ability to deliver current isn't up to snuff. That's either the connections (dirty, high resistance) and/or the battery is toast. Since it doesn't die on you while riding and you don't mention dim lights the charging system sounds like it's ok.

The powerlet issue isn't likely to be causing the clock reset issue unless it's connected to the battery terminals and they are also dirty along with the battery cables.
If you're rotating the plug in the socket and the tender is showing connected and not connected either the plug/socket is dirty or the wires are broke inside the insulation. With the plug inserted and NOT charging wiggle the wires around trying to not disturb the plug socket connection and see if it changes.
Start cheap disconnect and clean both ends of the battery cables and tender pigtail.

$1.. the battery is toast AND the tender charging connection is corroded.

A hex key to remove the right side cover and 10mm? socket is all you need to get to the battery cables. The bike runs doesn't sound like a major issue, I'd avoid a dealer their battery is gonna be $$$.

Check the evapar thread they might have some unused oem batteries still available (pulled from generators that are a direct replacement) iirc $65.
Dealer price for a new yuasa battery is $200+

Any farkles bike alarms or anything else added that's connected to an always on circuit or direct to the battery?
 
Last edited:
michael_bluth said:
Battery is nearing 3 years, maybe 4.
In anticipation of a bad battery, what is the best replacement and where to order. I'd like to get a maintenance free battery.
Click to expand...
Not to say I'm a battery expert, but I'd highly recommend getting a YUASA YTZ14S.
I tried a cheap one off of eBay and it lasted 8 months.
The YUASA one I received from Evapar still shows 78% life left after a year of service. And it sat on the shelf for 8 months according to the date code stamp on the battery. My old battery was show 16% life left after 4 years when I replaced it.
I'll attach a few photos of the battery bug info. Not sure if you can find a battery bug as they are out of business due to a patent violation. Check eBay.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    85.7 KB · Views: 4
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    181 KB · Views: 1
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    195.4 KB · Views: 4
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    207.6 KB · Views: 2
Thanks for all the replies. Finally got to testing voltages. Results below:
1. Tender attached, fully charged - 12.92V
2. Removed tender, waited 3 minutes - 12.80V
3. Turned ignition switch on, immediate reading - 11.70V
4. Load test (high beams on 2 minutes) - 9.35V; (3 min) - 7.50V
5. All off for 1 minute - 11.95V
6. Turned on to start - 8.6V, no sound whatsoever, not even a click
7. Waited about 15 minutes to start again (12.6V), some electrical clicks, voltage dropped to below 4V, with no engine turnover.

Connections were clean and tight. Looks like I need a new battery. Hopefully, that is all it needs. If I find one on the evapar thread, will it be ready to go when I receive it, or is there a procedure to perform before it can be installed?

st1300r - it looks like the powerlet adapter is bad, too. The tender does change charge states if I mess with the wires when plugged in. Did I contribute to the battery failure by using a faulty connector? I will replace it ASAP.
 
Yup, battery. :)

I don't believe Evapar has any for sale any longer, but no hurt in asking.

If I were you, I wouldn't mess with other off-brands...they're cheaper for a reason. My opinion. I've had very good performance from Yuasas, poor from BatteriesPlus and other 'equivalents'.

When you get a Yuasa battery, most just install it and go. But Yuasa does have some instruction: http://www.yuasaeurope.com/en-gb/motorcycle/motorcycle_battery_charging_and_activation/
 
Thanks again for everyone's help. Also forgot to mention no other accessories drawing power. I will clean out the powerlet, but I may end up attaching a quick connect harness strictly for charging so I do no have to mess with another adapter. A quick search and looks like some are available on amazon for $130. More than evapar (latest update was July with none in stock and no idea on future), but better than a shop! Thanks again everyone.

Also noticed the shop that replaced the battery few years back stripped two of the mounts for the side panel. They placed one of the larger screws in the small front one (that had to be broken off) and the small screw was placed in large mount under the seat, so now that thread won't accept the larger (proper) screw. Ugh.

Brian
 
Last edited:
michael_bluth said:
3. Turned ignition switch on, immediate reading - 11.70V
Click to expand...

Battery is toast

iirc some of the mounts for the cap screws on the side panel are just clips that slide on. Easily replaceable.
+1 They forced the wrong cap screw in the wrong hole. DIY and ask questions here, I've learned a ton from the folks on the site.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom