The NT1100 Thread

I have 2 serious complaints, only 1 is really about the bike. Everything else I can live with.

1) I think I counted 12 switches on the left handlebar, one of which is the turn signal switch. It is buried amongst all the others. Turn signal switch should be bigger or stick out more.

2). And this one really pisses me off! About one third of the owners manual is devoted to the audio system. Nowhere do they list torque specs for oil drain bolts. Nowhere do they show where on dipstick correct oil level is. It is only described as "between 2 marks". Is that the flat section of the dipstick or between the mark in the middle and the bottom of the dipstick or between the mark in the middle and the top of the flat section of dipstick? I know it's not overly critical but come on Honda!

I guess that's the way of motorcycling these days the audio system is more important than maintenance.
 
ST Gui said:
A couple-three years ago I was giving serious thought to a new 'Wing. Fortunately there were no current models in white or yellow or it would have been a done deal. Now as I look back the 'Wing would currently be far more bike than I want.

If I could warm up to the look of the NT1100D it might be a consideration. There is so much to like about the bike. Not that I'm going to get one but I might schlep on down to a dealer just to eyeball one close and personal. Not that I'll need to but I'll leave the wallet phone and watch at home.

:roflmao-2x:

Not for nothin' I like that I can find out so much about this slick ride without having to join another forum.
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GoldWing $25,000 ish
NT 1100 $13,000 ish (with bags)
I'm not the brightest guy on the forum but even I can see that math is pretty hard to beat.
 
Donk said:
I have 2 serious complaints, only 1 is really about the bike. Everything else I can live with.

1) I think I counted 12 switches on the left handlebar, one of which is the turn signal switch. It is buried amongst all the others. Turn signal switch should be bigger or stick out more.

2). And this one really pisses me off! About one third of the owners manual is devoted to the audio system. Nowhere do they list torque specs for oil drain bolts. Nowhere do they show where on dipstick correct oil level is. It is only described as "between 2 marks". Is that the flat section of the dipstick or between the mark in the middle and the bottom of the dipstick or between the mark in the middle and the top of the flat section of dipstick? I know it's not overly critical but come on Honda!

I guess that's the way of motorcycling these days the audio system is more important than maintenance.
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It is the same with new cages. The entertainment system is more important than the drivetrain specs. It's got a motor, a steering wheel and four tires that is good enough for me, now what kind of infotainment / interface does it have for my phone and does it have Apple Play, how loud can I play my music and can I do gaming on the screen. Nobody does maint any more, nor do they want to. Cars to day with auto transmission are just 'Point and Shoot / Go" Anything other than that, heaven forbid I have to learn something, Like how to drive. And guess what? Motorcycles will be going that way very soon. IE; the DCT on the NT1100. Motorcycle version of the Automatic with the infotainment system. Welcome to progress. :rofl1:
 
Yeah the old 'beasts' sometimes even came with instructions and gauges to adjust your valves.
Now the owner's manuals have to remind owners not to drink the battery fluid ... :biggrin:
 
Donk said:
P= power. EB=engine braking. TC= traction control. You can adjust traction control in every mode but power and engine braking only in user modes. Still has D and S plus manual. In S you have S1 S2 S3 the higher the S number the higher rpm your shift points are. I run minimum TC in all modes.
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If you look at my post #82, you'll see on the NC 750 DCT you have 4 things, one of them being D.

I saw in the pic of dduelins NT 1100 dash in post #84 there are 3 circles at the bottom to adjust P, EB, and T ....no D ...unless that just shows up when it's switched to user mode????
 
Uncle Phil said:
Yeah the old 'beasts' sometimes even came with instructions and gauges to adjust your valves.
Now the owner's manuals have to remind owners not to drink the battery fluid ... :biggrin:
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The stock toolkit on my Africa Twin has a screwdriver and a fuse puller - that's all!
 
the Ferret said:
If you look at my post #82, you'll see on the NC 750 DCT you have 4 things, one of them being D.

I saw in the pic of dduelins NT 1100 dash in post #84 there are 3 circles at the bottom to adjust P, EB, and T ....no D ...unless that just shows up when it's switched to user mode????
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P=Power, EB = engine braking, and T =Traction control.
 
Donk saw what was going on and noted, "I think I counted 12 switches on the left handlebar, one of which is the turn signal switch. It is buried amongst all the others. Turn signal switch should be bigger or stick out more."

This, the turn signal with gloves on, is hard. Sometimes I get it right, sometimes I don't.
 
the Ferret said:
If you look at my post #82, you'll see on the NC 750 DCT you have 4 things, one of them being D.

I saw in the pic of dduelins NT 1100 dash in post #84 there are 3 circles at the bottom to adjust P, EB, and T ....no D ...unless that just shows up when it's switched to user mode????
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Upper right hand corner, right under the glare you can see N for neutral. Put it in gear and shows D or S
 
bdalameda said:
Givi does make an adaptor Tanklock ring that fits the NT1100 it is part #BF30 - I'm not sure what Tank bags fit it. I have a Givi Tanklock bag on my Africa Twin and I really like it. It's so nice not having straps holding the bag on.
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If you have an old Givi Tanklock bag, you can unscrew the "ring" or attaching mechanism on the underside and mount it on the non-Tanklock bag. I'm sure SW Motech bags would be able to do that. I have a Cortech tank bag and put the locking mechanism on the underside...and it works great. Plus, it keeps the tank bag off the gas tank and saves the paint.

Donk said:
1) I think I counted 12 switches on the left handlebar, one of which is the turn signal switch. It is buried amongst all the others. Turn signal switch should be bigger or stick out more.
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If it had a BMW decal on it, you could do without the turn signals. BMW owners don't know what they are. :D :D :D


The advantage to a smaller bike like an NT1100 is the weight. I wouldn't discount that. I had an NT700V. Wet weight was 573 lbs, and that didn't include any junk I might be carrying around in the panniers. Lighter than an ST1100 or ST1300, but still significant. More than once, I didn't stop for a Kodak moment on a ride because I didn't want to wrestle with that weight on the narrow shoulder of the road. A Goldwing may seem great, and it may have a reverse gear...but you won't need it with a bike like the NT1100. And you won't have to worry about the angle of the parking space when you pull into Costco because even if it means backing up, you'll be able to easily push it.

Buying an NT1100 isn't a case of giving up anything. It's a case of what will you gain.

Chris
 
Donk said:
Upper right hand corner, right under the glare you can see N for neutral. Put it in gear and shows D or S
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Yes I explained in post 82 what P, EB, and TC stood for and what I thought D stood for

Ok apparently I'm not making my point....

on my NC, in user mode, I can adjust the amount of D from 1 bar (less D) to 4 bars (more D)

It appears to me on the NT 1100 there is no adjusting D?
 
the Ferret said:
Yes I explained in post 82 what P, EB, and TC stood for and what I thought D stood for

Ok apparently I'm not making my point....

on my NC, in user mode, I can adjust the amount of D from 1 bar (less D) to 4 bars (more D)

It appears to me on the NT 1100 there is no adjusting D?
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The NT has D, D-SI/ SII/ SIII, each of the S's hold the shift points longer which one can over ride with the finger shift paddles. Then of course there is the straight manual mode, which one must shift manual with the shift paddles. The are five different drive modes. Tour, Urban, Rain, User 1 and User 2. User modes can be set to riders preferences. Tour, Urban, Rain are factory set for Power, Engine Braking, and Traction control. You can change Traction Control to one of three settings. I only have 939 miles on my bike so I am still learning the nuances of the DCT. I hope this all makes some sense.
 
the Ferret said:
Yes I explained in post 82 what P, EB, and TC stood for and what I thought D stood for

Ok apparently I'm not making my point....

on my NC, in user mode, I can adjust the amount of D from 1 bar (less D) to 4 bars (more D)

It appears to me on the NT 1100 there is no adjusting D?
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Not So. Your D 1-4 bars is our D with no S's to, SI, SII, SIII
 
NT1100 - “D” means “not N” just like a car
NC750 - “D” setting = shift point adjust
NT1100 - “S” setting = shift point adjust
 
ChucksKLRST said:
I only have 939 miles on my bike so I am still learning the nuances of the DCT.
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I would be very interested to hear about how the DCT copes with the sudden gear change required for the sudden change in direction and gradient of a very tight, very steep uphill hairpin bend. If I approach such a bend, I drop it dowwn into first way before the hairpin and then adjust my speed so that when I am at the bend and already starting to lean, I have taken up all of the slack in the drive train and have the power to drive it round.

Any hesitation or sudden surge in such a situation would have me off. For compariosn - my 1100 was absolutely no problem, it just powered round.
My first 1300 A6 was a disaster. It had no real power at lower revs and to get roaund safely I had to keep the revs high and slip the clutch.
My second ST1300 seems to have different engine mapping and there is oodles of low down power, and it goes round like the 1100 used to.

My car - my first ever without manual gearbox - is a Toyota C-HR - which has no clutch. It has a continuously variable gearbox which seem to work on torque. continuously shifting the output between driving the alternator (to charge the battery for the hybrid motor through very high gearing) and driving the car. Present it with a steep hill and hairpin and the 2 litre engine roars away as if the clutch was slipping and it effortlessly pulls the car forward. The ride is smooth and transition free inside the car. Start coasting and the engine (if it is still running) and the car wheels start to drive the generator. Use the brakes and the pads don't touch the discs at first - all of the initial slowing down force goes to turning the generator gears.

This is really reassuring - but somehow I have niggles about how the bike would handle the same situation. I am wondering about the NT1100 as a next bike. But chain, chain slack, steel exhausts. DCT. No clutch control.
 
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