swapping rear wheels on an ST1100, advice needed

dwalby

dwalby

Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
210
Location
soCal
Bike
'97 ST1100
I have a second rear wheel that's in a little better shape than the one that's currently on the bike. The one on the bike now is the original.

If I want to swap to the other wheel, I figure I probably have to swap the final drive flange over from the original wheel to keep my final drive spline components matched, correct?

I think I just pull the flange out of the original wheel and push it into the replacement wheel, but I don't want to overlook something that I'm not aware of.

Is there anything else that I'd need to know about?
 
Since we have had guys with trashed splines replace the ones that bolt to the rear wheel (with brand new parts), I'm not sure you need to change the flange from your original wheel to the new (used) one. I'd clean all the splines right down to bare metal and inspect them for wear, then use the ones that look the best.

If you are in there, you might check the rubber cush bushes and use the best ones. Change the o-rings, slather moly paste all over your hands, etc.....
 
I bought a used spider and a set of spacers for my other pair of wheels, just makes swapping them out easier. I’ve had no issues so far and I tend to swap the wheels out twice per season.
 
I run 2 sets of wheels and keep the flange and innards that belongs to each wheel.
Only thing that comes up once in a while is the space between the brake pads. One of them has a disk more worn than the other. I never remember to spread them.
 
OK, so there's some differing opinions.

UP seems to agree with my original thoughts about swapping the flange, but others are saying they don't bother.

Since my plan is to swap to the newer wheel once, and stick with that going forward rather than actively swap the wheels over time, I'm thinking I'll do the flange swap once and then forget about it.

Sounds like its not that critical if I keep the same flange that's spent 28 years mated to the final drive, or not, so either way should work OK.

agreed?
 
There is no reason that they need to be kept as a matched set based on the function that they perform. Normally parts that need to be kept as a matched set are sold as a set or it is indicated that they must be replaced as a set, such as the ring gear and pinion set of a differential. If I remember correctly Honda does not sell these as a matched set and they do not recommend replacing them as a set either. If it allows you to sleep better there is also no reason not to keep them matched.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
There is no reason that they need to be kept as a matched set based on the function that they perform. Normally parts that need to be kept as a matched set are sold as a set or it is indicated that they must be replaced as a set, such as the ring gear and pinion set of a differential. If I remember correctly Honda does not sell these as a matched set and they do not recommend replacing them as a set either. If it allows you to sleep better there is also no reason not to keep them matched.
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my line of thinking was just in case there is a wear pattern established, might as well keep that pattern matched. But, when I've examined the splines in the past they seemed to be in very good condition, so I was just playing it ultra safe by keeping them matched. The spyder pries out of the wheel without any fastener removal needed, so it literally takes a few seconds to swap over. This assumes that all wheels are machined the same way so the spyder will transfer over to the new wheel without any slop, which seems like a reasonable assumption. If that assumption proves incorrect, then not doing the swap is also acceptable.
 
dwalby said:
my line of thinking was just in case there is a wear pattern established, might as well keep that pattern matched. But, when I've examined the splines in the past they seemed to be in very good condition, so I was just playing it ultra safe by keeping them matched. The spyder pries out of the wheel without any fastener removal needed, so it literally takes a few seconds to swap over. This assumes that all wheels are machined the same way so the spyder will transfer over to the new wheel without any slop, which seems like a reasonable assumption. If that assumption proves incorrect, then not doing the swap is also acceptable.
Click to expand...
As I wrote, I see no valid technical requirement to keep them as a matched set as they do not operate in the same manner as the final drive gears which is the same as a differential. I also no reason not to keep them as matched sets if you have two sets. This assumes that the parts of both of the two sets that you are using have always been used together exclusively since they were new. If they haven't the ship has already sailed on any perceived benefit from keeping them as matched sets.
 
My advice would be use the least worn parts, Splines don't need to be matched, having said that, not a bad idea to keep things matched. My advice comes from 40 plus years rebuilding Automatic transmissions, cheers G
 
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