I'm sure that the 'modified' light won't pass the inspection. But knowing that it will work the same and not be any different in lighting the road and not be a safety risk, I don't mind changing it before and after the inspection everytime. It's every couple years.
Re-baking my ST1300 (Almost-full-redoing)
- Thread starter leondante
- Start date
I'm sure that the 'modified' light won't pass the inspection. But knowing that it will work the same and not be any different in lighting the road and not be a safety risk, I don't mind changing it before and after the inspection everytime. It's every couple years.
ST Gui
240Robert
I wonder if anyone would even notice the touch-up. There's nothing about it that looks like an actual modification. Just merely some shiny bit that likely has little to no effect on beam pattern being absent. If it looked like it was worn or flaking off I could see it as red flag. But if it's just not there... Anyway you're OK swapping every two years so it's not a big deal.
It may not have been on this site but I do remember seeing the same treatment for another bike if not as ST. I thought it was a nice touch. Less 'glittery'. Can't wait to see your work once the lens has been cleaned up.
Yesterday took a better sight of the oily stuff under the engine. Definitely I have to fix that. Just with some wheel turning it leaks oil badly, it left a stain on the floor like an egg yolk of oil about the night. Not too much but it will be a mess if it becomes a daily thing all around the engine and the worst thing is that it will reach the tire and be dangaraouse whitin a couple commuting travels. So, I'm just dissasembling the back again for real. That and I found out that the right camshaft cover is sweating oil like crazy. Yeah, definitely this thing had a lot of issues with oil leaks, clearly. I now understand the origins of this damned engine nugget and its original battered state.
I was almost there with starting the wiring stuff but looked this and just left the idea for now. When I get there I'm cleaning the dashboard parts and restoring them. I have a lot of work of 3D printing for fixing some stuff I really don't like or need. I have to make a nice dashboard for the temperature sensor, the voltmeter, the different switches for stuff, the couple lights for the alarm and radar warner, blalbalblalblablal.
The gauges at the dashboard had an issue because the sun. There are some bubbles under the paint and they are really ugly. I'm printing some nice disks to put under the needles/arrows/whatever for fixing that ugliness. The bubbles are just there so is not that hard to fix, but I have to create, print and install new parts inside the dashboard and hope that work and no hair of my cat get in there in the process.
Well, I just got really pissed off.
I found the rear oil leak, it was the secondary shaft output to the universal joint as I thought. The o-ring was brittle and just plastified and cracky. I'm putting the shaft seal too, as I'm doing stuff there. Had to take out the swingarm, of course.
So, as I have to wait for the seals for those and the headlight and blalbalblalbalblalb, I decided to fix the coolant pump seals too. I'm just messy enough by now and had a lot of things to wait for to arrive so in the meantime fixing that just in case was a thing of just "why the heck not???". I was just some screws away of it at the point. Wise decision.
The seals were not broken but EATEN by the corrosion, and they were so overdue that the build up of crap was sealing the output small hole. I'm considering if doing something to fix the holes where all the seals and the ball bearing must go, they are half eaten too. For real, this guy didn't deserve this motorcycle. I really can't bear the people that have nice things and do not take care of them to this point. It's not just fixing what seems broken, or taking it to a guy that MAYBE will tell you what is overdue to fix. It's about YOU knowing how to take care of things, something like taking care of a romantic relationship. NO ONE will tell you how to keep the fire on, you must to work to know it and only you can do it. The same with your motorcycle.
There are parts you must schedule for changing, just like the timing belt in your car. You cannot wait for it to get broken. You must NOT wait for a leak coming out from that small hole to change your seals. After some years or distance you MUST change them and that's it. Same with coolant, brake fluid, fork oil, just like engine oil. FFS... I hope I can fix it and avoid buying the complete part, what I'm willing to do if necessary.
In the pictures you can see the build-up it was just blocking the output of oil. The coolant didn't get out but it was enough humidity to eat a bit of the shaft with corrosion, and to get the oil seal destroyed by the deformity caused by the rust in the inner steel piece. I have to do a fine check to see if a new common seal will work, and I must check if I could remake the part where the seal fits with my lathe if it's bumpy enough not to seal, so fix it buying a smaller seal in the inner piece. Meh, this is kinda a mess.
Some pictures, they don't need me to elaborate longer:
Attachments
About the already done work, today I'm posting the tapistry I've done.
OOGLEEE seats. They were covered with some industrial material we use here for civic engineering when doing artificial lakes for sealing as a fake container so the water don't go into the dirt again. I'ts kinda a rubber, but it only look acceptable after 7 meters or more:
So I bought this from Etsy. They are the same sellers on each platform and have accounts in ebay, aliexpress, amazon... The cheapest was in Etsy if I recall properly. Not cheap, kinda 100 euros. They let you chose the finishings, colors, embroidery, blablalblab... Impressive finishings, really recommended. I chose those colors because I want to paint it white and black and I don't like black for the seat.
Black is a neat color, but lacks personality, it's too much of a generic touch for my taste and getting other colors for the seat makes you work out your art because it's NOT EASY to combine properly any color that's not black into a motorcycle and get the thing to look good.
Dissasembling them I found that the previous owner put extra plastic pieces under it and did modifications, all intended to avoid heat to the driver, not caring at all about cooking all the motorcycle guts completely.
I washed all parts washable. And I cut a hole to let blood reach my prostate into the foam. I still don't understand why they aren't doing these kind of fixings into motorcycles. They could go really better than mine. Not expensive nor time-consuming, I don't know. They are doing them into bicycles because there is clearly an improvement so you have holed seats for bicycles. I've had motorcycles that make my legs full dumb in just 150 kms. and my prostate missing from my senses too. I'll let you know if this works, it's my first time doing this. I've saved the part just in case I need to put it back in the future for any reason or if it just get worse instead of better.
It's a must to cover the foam with plastic so when getting soaked it doesn't get full with water and get just rotten.
Notice the shape of the cut-off. I hope it doesn't mark the tapistry.
DAMN NEAT, I LOVE IT!
Before pinning there the new tapistry I took out each and every piece of the previous staples. Not a single one was left there. I used that yellow tape for the plastic covering, it's electronic tape that is really resistant to UV, heat, tearing, I like it a lot for high quality jobs and I recommend it for very tough purposes. Never tried it before really, but I have that opinion by the moment, at least for the one I have right now.
OOGLEEE seats. They were covered with some industrial material we use here for civic engineering when doing artificial lakes for sealing as a fake container so the water don't go into the dirt again. I'ts kinda a rubber, but it only look acceptable after 7 meters or more:
So I bought this from Etsy. They are the same sellers on each platform and have accounts in ebay, aliexpress, amazon... The cheapest was in Etsy if I recall properly. Not cheap, kinda 100 euros. They let you chose the finishings, colors, embroidery, blablalblab... Impressive finishings, really recommended. I chose those colors because I want to paint it white and black and I don't like black for the seat.
Black is a neat color, but lacks personality, it's too much of a generic touch for my taste and getting other colors for the seat makes you work out your art because it's NOT EASY to combine properly any color that's not black into a motorcycle and get the thing to look good.
Dissasembling them I found that the previous owner put extra plastic pieces under it and did modifications, all intended to avoid heat to the driver, not caring at all about cooking all the motorcycle guts completely.
I washed all parts washable. And I cut a hole to let blood reach my prostate into the foam. I still don't understand why they aren't doing these kind of fixings into motorcycles. They could go really better than mine. Not expensive nor time-consuming, I don't know. They are doing them into bicycles because there is clearly an improvement so you have holed seats for bicycles. I've had motorcycles that make my legs full dumb in just 150 kms. and my prostate missing from my senses too. I'll let you know if this works, it's my first time doing this. I've saved the part just in case I need to put it back in the future for any reason or if it just get worse instead of better.
It's a must to cover the foam with plastic so when getting soaked it doesn't get full with water and get just rotten.
Notice the shape of the cut-off. I hope it doesn't mark the tapistry.
DAMN NEAT, I LOVE IT!
Before pinning there the new tapistry I took out each and every piece of the previous staples. Not a single one was left there. I used that yellow tape for the plastic covering, it's electronic tape that is really resistant to UV, heat, tearing, I like it a lot for high quality jobs and I recommend it for very tough purposes. Never tried it before really, but I have that opinion by the moment, at least for the one I have right now.
Attachments
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I just had the idea of doing a new thread for every thing I fix. I noticed that found stuff along all the thread can be tiring and a bit of a mess of a thread, so I'm just dissasembling the thread too from now and on. I'll do a specific thread for the coolant pump fixing and the wiring and blablalblalb.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2005
- Messages
- 702
- Location
- Cedar City, Utah
- Bike
- 12/04/AZ05 ST 1300s
- 2026 Miles
- 000226
When I pulled off the front cover from the 06 cop bike, I found the waterpump area of the cover chewed up pretty good. "Just normal wear and tear?"
So I checked out the 05 (bad engine) and it looked like it should.
So I checked out the 05 (bad engine) and it looked like it should.
When I pulled off the front cover from the 06 cop bike, I found the waterpump area of the cover chewed up pretty good. "Just normal wear and tear?"
So I checked out the 05 (bad engine) and it looked like it should.
Yeah, that's my issue. I'm trying to rescue it. Also the propeller shaft is somehow corroed, I think I'm taking kinda 0.1 mm there to fix at least the part where the seal sit. And I'm buying different seal sizes to put the one that fits better.
Uhm, for me that's brutally expensive. I can't spend 75$ plus delivery and taxes for the propeller nor around 500 for the front cover (I'm guessing that one, remember I'm not talking about the pump cover but the engine one). Even taking it to a workshop for refilling with TIG and machinning would cost less than a third of a new one and will be like new.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
My Brother in-law did this with every one of his many motorcycle seats. He called it a ball pocket and wondered why seat manufacturers didn't do it.
ST Gui
240Robert
That is a seriously sharp lookin' seat. And that's one proud pocket.
Yesterday I bought even another 250 euros of parts, 200 of them original Honda ones. I bought special oil seals of FPM material which can bear 200 Celsius degrees and it's better than NBR, which is the material of the OEM ones. This can be really better for the coolant pump as it can make a real difference as FPM it's better bearing the aggression of heat, friction and chemicals. It's the correct material for gasoline, e.g., as NBR expands with it.
I'm now fixing the coolant pump, the rear oil leak and in the meanwhile I'll try to do the wiring and weirdness installing.
I'm now fixing the coolant pump, the rear oil leak and in the meanwhile I'll try to do the wiring and weirdness installing.
Completely against my will and my economy I ended buying the water pump impeller. At least I got it for 50€ OEM new in ebay which is nice, I have now to wait to see how much taxes they steal me.
I bought the previously mentioned FPM seal which is really nice (I have it with mi already), and I see I didn't mention it's a FPMSS one, not just FPM. The "SS" means it has a stainless steel ring inside, not just steel. This is even better as they get corroed if some humidity gets in there, thing that happened in mine. So even BETTER. Getting a smaller seal of this kind of 1mm less in diameter was around 20€. As I'm fully commited to keeping a FPM seal there because is a really weak point and clearly a common NBR seal was bad option, I lost the option of "lathing" my old water pump impeller more than 20 microns, in order to achieve using that seal and not buying another one.
It was really hard to get it to the point in the gif, just 2 microns of mm of error. But I have to get better at it and search about centering in lathes, as it was impossible to keep that position in the end and messed up a bit enough to convince me to spend even more money. I'm lucky my wife don't get offended because how much I'm spending on this bike. But the end is near and I can see it and feel it. Maybe in May I'll be riding it. The only way to fix the 20 microns of offset of the axis was with paper. It worked really well at the start, but after some working the new offset gets noticeable and measuring revealed that it was moving all the times I tried. I need more practice with the lathe but I was pretty close to achieve it!!! Next time I'm sure I'm getting whatever I try, just need some material good enough and thin enough to press the part there so it doesn't move and gets and keep centered.
So, I hope I don't crash the bike or die before at least 100.000 miles or so. This is taking a part of my soul at this point. I'm not discouraged, but it's taking a bit more than I expected of time (I'm still between the margins of effort I was thinking it would cost).
See the gif of the lathe attatched, I didn't find a way to put it here after half an hour, it keeps failing.
About the lid, I just got to see that the surfaces where the seals should sit are OK, so I'm going forward with it. A bit of good sealant (pretty good sealant) will be enough, I'm sure:
I decided to clean it inside, as I thought "Why not?, less trash to take out later with some chemical cleaner.". Weirdly, the inside of the engine doesn't look as stained as the lid, maybe it's a lid from another engine, I don't know. My olvely alcaline floor soap made the trick almost with no brushing:
I want to kick the head of the dumbarse whoever thought that sanding the lid edges ACROSS the union was a permisible idea. This piece of an intelectual human defect created a lot of creases that make the seal sweat oil all the time. This engine had a lot of oil issues, it's taking a lot of work fixing all of them. This was a hard one and I'm still sanding this disaster:
ALL THE WAY, ALL ALLONG, THIS MDFLDKMFLHG SANDED THE THING with 80 ppp sandpaper and created a nice day of elbow-destroyer-fixing to me. You MUST sand the edges with 200 ppp sandpaper at the most and always ALONG it, if not you create channels for the oil to get out.
That's for now the work done.
I bought the previously mentioned FPM seal which is really nice (I have it with mi already), and I see I didn't mention it's a FPMSS one, not just FPM. The "SS" means it has a stainless steel ring inside, not just steel. This is even better as they get corroed if some humidity gets in there, thing that happened in mine. So even BETTER. Getting a smaller seal of this kind of 1mm less in diameter was around 20€. As I'm fully commited to keeping a FPM seal there because is a really weak point and clearly a common NBR seal was bad option, I lost the option of "lathing" my old water pump impeller more than 20 microns, in order to achieve using that seal and not buying another one.
It was really hard to get it to the point in the gif, just 2 microns of mm of error. But I have to get better at it and search about centering in lathes, as it was impossible to keep that position in the end and messed up a bit enough to convince me to spend even more money. I'm lucky my wife don't get offended because how much I'm spending on this bike. But the end is near and I can see it and feel it. Maybe in May I'll be riding it. The only way to fix the 20 microns of offset of the axis was with paper. It worked really well at the start, but after some working the new offset gets noticeable and measuring revealed that it was moving all the times I tried. I need more practice with the lathe but I was pretty close to achieve it!!! Next time I'm sure I'm getting whatever I try, just need some material good enough and thin enough to press the part there so it doesn't move and gets and keep centered.
So, I hope I don't crash the bike or die before at least 100.000 miles or so. This is taking a part of my soul at this point. I'm not discouraged, but it's taking a bit more than I expected of time (I'm still between the margins of effort I was thinking it would cost).
See the gif of the lathe attatched, I didn't find a way to put it here after half an hour, it keeps failing.
About the lid, I just got to see that the surfaces where the seals should sit are OK, so I'm going forward with it. A bit of good sealant (pretty good sealant) will be enough, I'm sure:
I decided to clean it inside, as I thought "Why not?, less trash to take out later with some chemical cleaner.". Weirdly, the inside of the engine doesn't look as stained as the lid, maybe it's a lid from another engine, I don't know. My olvely alcaline floor soap made the trick almost with no brushing:
I want to kick the head of the dumbarse whoever thought that sanding the lid edges ACROSS the union was a permisible idea. This piece of an intelectual human defect created a lot of creases that make the seal sweat oil all the time. This engine had a lot of oil issues, it's taking a lot of work fixing all of them. This was a hard one and I'm still sanding this disaster:
ALL THE WAY, ALL ALLONG, THIS MDFLDKMFLHG SANDED THE THING with 80 ppp sandpaper and created a nice day of elbow-destroyer-fixing to me. You MUST sand the edges with 200 ppp sandpaper at the most and always ALONG it, if not you create channels for the oil to get out.
That's for now the work done.
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Today arrives the last part of my motorcycle. I just received the notification about the parcel arriving home. I'm sure by now that no other part would be needed, if nothing else breaks anymore. The journey to start using the bike is getting the end.
Then the painting journey will start, but that will be a lot shorter, kinda a week of no using the bike long (I hope...). And it will be awesome, because few things are more sad than a very "healthy" bike inside that looks mistreated outside.
I was posting a really long post when happened the last website crash and lost a long job of showing stuff, so I was a bit tired until now to post all that again, later I'm doing it.
As I'm just WORK far from using the bike, I think I'm entering the 14-hours-work-per-day mode to try to get it done in the next four days, that's the time I have before getting to work again. Lets see if I can do it.
Then the painting journey will start, but that will be a lot shorter, kinda a week of no using the bike long (I hope...). And it will be awesome, because few things are more sad than a very "healthy" bike inside that looks mistreated outside.
I was posting a really long post when happened the last website crash and lost a long job of showing stuff, so I was a bit tired until now to post all that again, later I'm doing it.
As I'm just WORK far from using the bike, I think I'm entering the 14-hours-work-per-day mode to try to get it done in the next four days, that's the time I have before getting to work again. Lets see if I can do it.
@leondante This is REALLY great news! The payoff approaches for your incredibly hard work!!
"SANDED THE THING with 80 ppp sandpaper"
From the looks of the curved gouges, they must have used a disk sander for the attack!!
From the looks of the curved gouges, they must have used a disk sander for the attack!!