Introduction

Mr_Ibby

Mr_Ibby

Site Supporter
Joined
Jun 19, 2026
Messages
10
Age
33
Location
Hull, UK
Bike
2001 ST1100
Hello, I'm posting as an introduction and a reason to get my first post authorised.

I'm based in Hull in the UK, picked up a 2001 ST1100 last weekend and have only managed one ride on it so far, a trip from Falkirk to Hull and it was much comfier than my CBR600F.

Am in the process of taking it to bits and putting it back together again. So far I have found a few small issues to try and rectify.

- clutch seems to have a very high biting point so very little clutch travel is necessary to change gear/slip the clutch. Planning to change the fluid and see if that helps it, if not I reckon i can rebuild both cylinders and put a braided line on for about 75 quid.

- seems to have intermittent fuel starvation, will happily sit at 60-70 mph for hours but if I try and do any faster periods of riding it acts like it has run out of fuel and takes a few minutes to behave normally again - fuel pump seems to throw out a decent amount of petrol when disconnected so I'm going to rebuild the vacuum petcock and see if that helps.

- left side coolant hose seems to be leaking a few drops of coolant with crud all around the radiator inlet/outlet - new set of hoses on the way and hopefully just a case of cleaning the pipe and replacing the hose, otherwise might be a carb off job and inspecting the hoses in the V.

- finally it has a delkevic exhaust system which doesn't sound too bad but on throttle roll off it pops and backfires which appeals to my inner hooligan but doesn't quite fit with the Pan imo. Will be running some redex through but I reckon a carb balance and valve adjustment might be the next step if no perished vacuum lines are found.

- I was thinking about braided brake lines but with the LBS/ABS HEL is asking for nearly £800 so will leave that for now.

Overall rather pleased with it. Picked it up for 700gbp which I reckon makes up for the dodgy paint.
 

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Mr_Ibby said:
- clutch seems to have a very high biting point so very little clutch travel is necessary to change gear/slip the clutch. Planning to change the fluid and see if that helps it, if not I reckon i can rebuild both cylinders and put a braided line on for about 75 quid.
Click to expand...
Hi and welcome - congratulations on your new old ST1100A

Check the brass bush in the clutch lever. It has a hole in one side, and the push rod should fit INSIDE that hole. Put a mark on the top so that when you are putting the lever back in, you can see where the hole is to align it with the push rod.

Mr_Ibby said:
- seems to have intermittent fuel starvation, will happily sit at 60-70 mph for hours but if I try and do any faster periods of riding it acts like it has run out of fuel and takes a few minutes to behave normally again - fuel pump seems to throw out a decent amount of petrol when disconnected so I'm going to rebuild the vacuum petcock and see if that helps.
Click to expand...
Next time it does it, stop and undo the filler cap just make sure it isn't that. Also check for rubbish is the fuel filter.
Mr_Ibby said:
left side coolant hose seems to be leaking a few drops of coolant with crud all around the radiator inlet/outlet - new set of hoses on the way and hopefully just a case of cleaning the pipe and replacing the hose, otherwise might be a carb off job and inspecting the hoses in the V.
Click to expand...
You'll probably need new clamps as well. The radiator alloy is very soft and if they have been clamped too tight, the radiator pipe may have become deformed, and the hose and the circular clamp with it.. You can reshape them with something like a tapered screwdriver handle. When you remove hoses, do not pull them off - they grip tighter. You probably know this already. Push them from behind.
Mr_Ibby said:
- finally it has a delkevic exhaust system which doesn't sound too bad but on throttle roll off it pops and backfires which appeals to my inner hooligan but doesn't quite fit with the Pan imo. Will be running some redex through but I reckon a carb balance and valve adjustment might be the next step if no perished vacuum lines are found.
Click to expand...

That might happen if one of the exhaust joints is leaking, or if the carbs are not balanced properly. Also check spark plugs are clean and inserted correctly. If balancing carbs - use the info in the shop manual rather than that in some other guides. My Haynes manual that I had when I got my first 1100 had the description for balancing the carbs completely wrong.
Check the choke cable and lever is working properly.
 
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jfheath said:
Hi and welcome - congratulations on your new old ST1100A

Check the brass bush in the clutch lever. It has a hole in one side, and the push rod should fit INSIDE that hole. Put a mark on the top so that when you are putting the lever back in, you can see where the hole is to align it with the push rod.


Next time it does it, stop and undo the filler cap just make sure it isn't that. Also check for rubbish is the fuel filter.

You'll probably need new clamps as well. The radiator alloy is very soft and if they have been clamped too tight, the radiator pipe may have become deformed, and the hose and the circular clamp with it.. You can reshape them with something like a tapered screwdriver handle. When you remove hoses, do not pull them off - they grip tighter. You probably know this already. Push them from behind.


That might happen if one of the exhaust joints is leaking, or if the carbs are not balanced properly. Also check spark plugs are clean and inserted correctly. If balancing carbs - use the info in the shop manual rather than that in some other guides. My Haynes manual that I had when I got my first 1100 had the description for balancing the carbs completely wrong.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the welcome everyone and thanks for the advice.

I'll take a look at the brass bush.
The fuel filter is pristine.
The fuel cap allows air in and out of it's little nozzle so I'm pretty confident the fuel cap is allowing air in and out.
There didn't seem to be a hose clamp on the hose now I think more about it. Will get some new ones from the store.
Spark plug socket has just arrived and the servicing kit should be here soon so the plugs and oil will be changed out soon. I'll take a look at the exhaust joints but it doesn't sound like the exhaust is leaking, it's done 51k miles so I reckon a balancing is going to be required. I'll see how it goes.

Today I managed to get it onto the centre-stand so should make things a lot easier going forward.
Have managed to track down a shop manual and a Haynes so hopefully between the two should be successful
 

Attachments

BTW, original silencers will fit on the Delkevic exhaust system - I have them on all of my running ST1100s.
The ST1100 clutch normally is almost off/on in function wherever the engagement point comes.
Could be the clutch slave cylinder is going out.
If the fuel filter is clean, check your fuel pump electrical connections and remove the vacuum fuel cutoff to see if it could be the problem.
When ST1100 fuel pumps start failing, they will cause unusual issues and then clear up and then come back - especially at low fuel levels.
BTW, usually around 50,000 miles the rear shock turns into a pogo stick.
I've got over a 1/2 million miles on ST1100s so I've run into about everything with them.
I still have the 4 that I did that on, but one got taken out by a deer last year around this time.
 
Spent some more time with the bike.

Dropped a fairing screw into the V so I now have an extra reason to pull the carbs. Going to order some new boots before I do that.

The leaking left hose seems to be from the plastic drain plug. Replacement options seem to be few and far between, works out to nearly £30 for a new plug with delivery. I'll try and change the O-ring first, otherwise it's 70 for a replacement aluminium radiator which seems like a more worthwhile investment.

Changed out the oil and filter, bleeding the clutch with new fluid seems to have helped. Most of the issue seemed to be from aged grease on the bushing, lever assembly and pushrod. Much better now after a clean and fresh grease. The bushing was barely worn. Planning to flush and bleed the brakes later.

I've been doing some more reading on the suggested links and am wondering about greasing the drive splines. So far I see recommendations for LB8012, it's £75 for a 500g tub in the UK which seems steep and more than I'm ever likely to use. Any suggestions on suitable equivalents? I was thinking of getting a generic 60% moly paste instead.
 
So I made a small error and didn't check the wealth of info on here before posting. Having read through a few final drive assembly rebuild posts I reckon £70 will be worth it for peace of mind.

https://redeye.ecrater.com/p/18218041/final-drive-maintenance-kit-for-valkyrie

@ST1100Y, I can see some quoted posts where you may be alluding to these being a good fit. Unfortunately the originals have been deleted likely in the interest of keeping the forum trimmed. Do you advocate for these?
 
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Mr_Ibby said:
So I made a small error and didn't check the wealth of info on here before posting. Having read through a few final drive assembly rebuild posts I reckon £70 will be worth it for peace of mind.
Click to expand...
I believe that the below link is one of the products that is recommended by Honda- check the service manual to be sure.
Another option for you.
Rocol Moly Paste
 
Andrew Shadow said:
I believe that the below link is one of the products that is recommended by Honda- check the service manual to be sure.
Another option for you.
Rocol Moly Paste
Click to expand...
Thank you.

Still waiting for my vacuum petcock rebuild kit, I've ordered the parts to rebuild the fuel pump too, either it will be the next likely culprit or it will need rebuilding at some point in it's life anyway.
Really impressed by how much information is available for the ST1100 and 1300.
 
Mr_Ibby said:
The leaking left hose seems to be from the plastic drain plug.
Click to expand...
Very generic part, also used in cars and power equipment by Honda...
P/N 19011PH9004, COCK,DRAIN (TOYO)

P/N 19012PA0004, PAKING DRAIN (flat gasket, not an O-ring)

Mr_Ibby said:
https://redeye.ecrater.com/p/18218041/final-drive-maintenance-kit-for-valkyrie
@ST1100Y, I can see some quoted posts where you may be alluding to these being a good fit. Unfortunately the originals have been deleted likely in the interest of keeping the forum trimmed. Do you advocate for these?
Click to expand...
Been a few years since I'd ordered there (proof that they'll last that long...), but local members report that this vendor seems out of business...
 
I pitch the vacuum petcock on all of my ST1100s - but then you have that MOT thing to deal with. ;)
For moly I use Loctite 8012 after I could not get the original Honda Moly.
Not cheap but a jar will last you probably your lifetime ... :biggrin:
 
ST1100Y said:
Very generic part, also used in cars and power equipment by Honda...
P/N 19011PH9004, COCK,DRAIN (TOYO)

P/N 19012PA0004, PAKING DRAIN (flat gasket, not an O-ring)


Been a few years since I'd ordered there (proof that they'll last that long...), but local members report that this vendor seems out of business...
Click to expand...
That is a shame, oh well I can keep looking and maybe I will find the next big distributor. Thanks for the part numbers.
Uncle Phil said:
I pitch the vacuum petcock on all of my ST1100s - but then you have that MOT thing to deal with. ;)
For moly I use Loctite 8012 after I could not get the original Honda Moly.
Not cheap but a jar will last you probably your lifetime ... :biggrin:
Click to expand...
Yeah I rationalised the purchase the same way. MOT isn't too bad. More the thought that if it was supposed to be there then I'd rather keep it, unless I decide it is taking up space needed for a fuel pump pressure regulator :D. Really enjoyed your write up on fuel pump testing.

Back at work now so have to wait until I have a day off again. Gives time for deliveries but my CBR will be back soon and that will want some attention too.
 
Where has the time gone.
My bike came with Delkevic exhaust cans, the baffles weren't fitted.
For Delkevic PR1855 cans I have managed to fit PR2736 baffles.
https://delkevic.co.uk/oversize-baffle-for-dl10-sl10-350mm-round-silencers/ - comes with the required fitting bolts.

Going on a ride tonight after bypassing the petcock. Either that has sorted it or I will burn enough fuel to replace the pump without spilling fuel everywhere.
 
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