Sorry, but what is the significants of the glaciers to be missed?
If not now, then..... when?
- Thread starter HPPants
- Start date
Day 27
Berchtesgadener, Germany to Sankt Johann, Austria
The weather is clearly back to seasonal. Again, it rained yesterday evening – we are getting so lucky with the rain on this trip. I wake up in the morning and the breeze blowing into the room is nice and cool.
This morning, the others are going to visit Kehlsteinhaus, often referred to as the Eagle’s Nest. This was a structure built by the Nazis on top of a mountain nearby. I’m not really very interested in that, so I will venture out on my own and meet them over there later in the morning.
I packed my bike fairly early and set out on some personal adventure. The morning light is providing some terrific roadside photo opportunities.
I rode through the local countryside a little over an hour to the southwest and ended up at the Gollinger Wasserfall. I had trouble finding a place to park, as all over the approach road there were “no parking” signs. Finally, a couple of blocks down the hill, I spotted an inn keeper working in the yard, and he allowed me to park at the Inn.
It’s my understanding that this is a private waterfall. There is a sign and a booth at the gate presumably for people to pay. The gate is open and no one is there. I try to read and translate the sign and there is no option to “pay online”. So – I figure I will make the visit and pay on the way out.
Right out of the gate, it’s looking nice.
A short distance later, I start to hear much louder water falling.
Oh my goodness…..
This is like an oasis within an oasis. Or, to put it another way, ….breakfast!
The trail climbs up and around the lower fall, so I continued on. At this vantage point, water was falling behind the rock. It’s like a natural window and I’m peeking in.
So pretty…..
I keep climbing and the upper fall is no less stunning.
Once again, I got this place all to myself.
I venture to guess that in my lifetime, I have seen at least 500 waterfalls, likely more.
This one gets placed firmly into my top 10.
As I am walking out of the trail, the gate is now closed except for a turnstile. There is a woman cleaning up nearby and I approached her to pay the entrance fee. Between the language barrier and other logistical challenges on her part, she let me go without paying. Cool!
I still have some time, so I wandered a little as I worked my way toward the others.
I get to the Eagle’s Nest and the group enjoyed that tour very much. Neato – everyone gets what they want.
We have Greg’s route loaded and we get going. We rode the Rossfeld panoramastrabe loop, and stopped along the way.
At this overlook, as I looked toward the north, I could tell that we were on the northern edge of the Alpine range.
I found this perspective quite fitting. We certainly haven’t seen it all, but we’ve seen a good bit of this beautiful mountain range. Now we are getting near the edge of it, and likewise, nearer the end of the trip. Again, that observation didn’t come with any regret or ill feeling what so ever. There was no wondering. No sense of urgency. Certainly no … panic. I’ve seen it, and I’ve seen it the right way. I ridden past it, and I’ve ridden through it. I’ve walked it. I’ve smelled it, I’ve heard it, and I’ve touched it. I was content, and happy.
Moving on…..
After lunch, we got to Lake Konigssee.
Right on cue….
At some point today, we crossed back into Austria. With the open borders of the European Union, it was hard to remember the crossings. Regardless, after ice cream, we rode just a little further to the village of Sankt Johann. The hotel clerk was extremely nice and suggested we eat dinner at the local brewery. Right on!
The walk to the old town was fun as usual. I like the architecture, particularly how they integrate art into their buildings.
Yep – this is the place!
The restaurant is on top of the brewery.
This will do.
After dinner, walking through town, it’s not crowded, certainly not by European standards. But activity is picking up as we get further into the summer.
As I do every evening, lying in bed, I went through the pictures I took today. I study them carefully and try to associate some memory or experience that made me take that picture. I’m being deliberate, here. I want to burn the memories into my gray matter. I don’t want to forget this adventure of a lifetime. The pictures will help, but they won’t be enough. This is a defining moment, Pants. You are not dreaming about your life anymore.
You are living your dreams.
Berchtesgadener, Germany to Sankt Johann, Austria
The weather is clearly back to seasonal. Again, it rained yesterday evening – we are getting so lucky with the rain on this trip. I wake up in the morning and the breeze blowing into the room is nice and cool.
This morning, the others are going to visit Kehlsteinhaus, often referred to as the Eagle’s Nest. This was a structure built by the Nazis on top of a mountain nearby. I’m not really very interested in that, so I will venture out on my own and meet them over there later in the morning.
I packed my bike fairly early and set out on some personal adventure. The morning light is providing some terrific roadside photo opportunities.
I rode through the local countryside a little over an hour to the southwest and ended up at the Gollinger Wasserfall. I had trouble finding a place to park, as all over the approach road there were “no parking” signs. Finally, a couple of blocks down the hill, I spotted an inn keeper working in the yard, and he allowed me to park at the Inn.
It’s my understanding that this is a private waterfall. There is a sign and a booth at the gate presumably for people to pay. The gate is open and no one is there. I try to read and translate the sign and there is no option to “pay online”. So – I figure I will make the visit and pay on the way out.
Right out of the gate, it’s looking nice.
A short distance later, I start to hear much louder water falling.
Oh my goodness…..
This is like an oasis within an oasis. Or, to put it another way, ….breakfast!
The trail climbs up and around the lower fall, so I continued on. At this vantage point, water was falling behind the rock. It’s like a natural window and I’m peeking in.
So pretty…..
I keep climbing and the upper fall is no less stunning.
Once again, I got this place all to myself.
I venture to guess that in my lifetime, I have seen at least 500 waterfalls, likely more.
This one gets placed firmly into my top 10.
As I am walking out of the trail, the gate is now closed except for a turnstile. There is a woman cleaning up nearby and I approached her to pay the entrance fee. Between the language barrier and other logistical challenges on her part, she let me go without paying. Cool!
I still have some time, so I wandered a little as I worked my way toward the others.
I get to the Eagle’s Nest and the group enjoyed that tour very much. Neato – everyone gets what they want.
We have Greg’s route loaded and we get going. We rode the Rossfeld panoramastrabe loop, and stopped along the way.
At this overlook, as I looked toward the north, I could tell that we were on the northern edge of the Alpine range.
I found this perspective quite fitting. We certainly haven’t seen it all, but we’ve seen a good bit of this beautiful mountain range. Now we are getting near the edge of it, and likewise, nearer the end of the trip. Again, that observation didn’t come with any regret or ill feeling what so ever. There was no wondering. No sense of urgency. Certainly no … panic. I’ve seen it, and I’ve seen it the right way. I ridden past it, and I’ve ridden through it. I’ve walked it. I’ve smelled it, I’ve heard it, and I’ve touched it. I was content, and happy.
Moving on…..
After lunch, we got to Lake Konigssee.
Right on cue….
At some point today, we crossed back into Austria. With the open borders of the European Union, it was hard to remember the crossings. Regardless, after ice cream, we rode just a little further to the village of Sankt Johann. The hotel clerk was extremely nice and suggested we eat dinner at the local brewery. Right on!
The walk to the old town was fun as usual. I like the architecture, particularly how they integrate art into their buildings.
Yep – this is the place!
The restaurant is on top of the brewery.
This will do.
After dinner, walking through town, it’s not crowded, certainly not by European standards. But activity is picking up as we get further into the summer.
As I do every evening, lying in bed, I went through the pictures I took today. I study them carefully and try to associate some memory or experience that made me take that picture. I’m being deliberate, here. I want to burn the memories into my gray matter. I don’t want to forget this adventure of a lifetime. The pictures will help, but they won’t be enough. This is a defining moment, Pants. You are not dreaming about your life anymore.
You are living your dreams.
Moto-Charlie
Vendor
Could be my wording - I was trying to indicate that it is easier for the group to stay together and not get separated when everyone is adhering to the speed limit, and those limits are generally lower in towns, villages and various valley roads. In my experience the likelihood of getting strung out is greater once we are out of congested areas and in the mountains, where the riders might be inclined to enjoy the twisty roads at a quicker pace, pass cars, buses, etc.Dunno what you're implying here...
Probably a personal preference but one of the reasons I like to ride the Alps in June and September is that there is likely to be snow on the mountain tops, which I just think makes the mountain scenery look prettier. Now I ride by places where the snow is gone, the glacial ice is gone and there is just a big, jagged hole in the ground. The roads haven't changed, still great, but the scenery has.
The impact of the glacial melting, and the Alps warming in general, is well documented in terms the permafrost melting, making the mountain surfaces unstable with falling rocks, etc. I read every summer (including this year) where certain well-known hiking and mountain climbing trails are closed due to safety concerns. I just saw where the summer skiing on the glacier at Saas Fe Switzerland has been closed due to poor conditions and the safety of the lifts in the changing base. Not to mention that certain areas/regions rely on water from the glaciers for existence.
I've always enjoyed stopping at the top of the Fedaia Pass to have a strudel by the reservoir and look up at the glacial ice covering the face of Marmolada, the highest mountain in the Dolomites. It's an impressive view. We were there in late June 2022. Later, while still on tour, we saw in the news that the unusually warm weather had caused undetected melting beneath the glacier causing a huge chunk of the glacier to split and fall almost 1.5 kilometers down the mountain to the edge of the reservoir. Eleven hikers were killed and eight wounded. I don't look at that mountain the same way now. It tells me that glacial melting is not only about a loss of scenery, but life as well.
I know many people just ride. Little or no pictures nor videos. Not many at all do videos.
To me it is very important to "document" the places I've been. As time goes by, we tent to forget things, especially the little things do disappear from the memory. We remember being there, seeing this and that, but the small details create a big picture of your memories. Each time I come back to my photos and videos, it brings me back to the places I've probably forgot about by now. It is almost as going back in time.
Yes the planet is changing as it is does for billions of years, but we're lucky to have these beautiful mountains in our lifetime. Geologists say that they're getting lower and in millions of years will disappear. Enjoy for now
It's certainly started an itch in the back of my brain.....
the Ferret
Daily rider since May 1965
Mine are in 5 Albums up in the cupboard upstairs. I look at them every once in awhile. Sometimes I miss using a camera and having the pictures developed. Now they are all in my iphone. I lost years of trip pictures in a computer crash a few years ago.
mello dude
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
I'm there too!
Day 28
Sankt Johann, Austria to Saviner di Laste, Italy
Just a sprinkle of rain as we left the hotel this morning. We stopped for gas and I put the rain gear on. Of course, that solidified the deal – it quit raining almost immediately after that.
Now heading back south, but not too far south, we slip back into Italy and wander at yet another section of the alps not previously seen.
Traffic in these parts is basically non-existent. We got the whole world right at the tips of our fingertips.
As they are located on the northern side of the range, these mountains are not quite as high as those further south. As such, we find ourselves riding in and out of patches of mostly conifer and evergreen forests.
We get to the top of a mountain pass, and the road heading down is only one lane. We arrive first in line at the electronic signal, but it says we have to wait 25 minutes for oncoming traffic to clear.
Now lets see – what shall we do with ourselves for 25 minutes? The local herd sure is friendly.
When whomever is in there comes out, they are gonna have quite a surprise.
Most assuredly, good things will come to those that wait.
That was by far the most enjoyable traffic delay of the ttrip. We run down the mountain unobstructed and stop at the bottom for coffee/pastry.
Soon enough, Greg’s route takes us to the next mountain.
We got the world by the short hairs, and you wanna know the best part?
We know it!
Sitrep behind: all good.
Sitrep in front: all good.
Marissa – I could NOT agree more!
This is another one of my favorite photos. This picture EXCLAIMS “Riding the Alps”.
The village of Cortina was hopping – everything looks so fresh and new. They obviously did a lot of work for the recent winter Olympics.
Greg likes this place, and so do I!
Come to think of it, I didn’t hear any complaints from these two either.
This is my kind of moto touring day – ride, stop, photo, ride, stop, photo, ride…..
Thank you for taking me to this place, my friend. I have had the most wonderful time.
In the middle of basically nowhere, we stop at this lunch place perched on the edge of the mountain.
Yep – this will do.
For quite a while, Greg has been telling us about this sandwich place. He said the food is good and the view is good. Well, here we are, and ….. yeppers, the food is good.
And the desserts were pretty good as well.
The clouds starting getting dark, and a peek of the radar did not look too promising. So we pressed the “easy” button and called it an early day. We rode through the rain for a half hour or so to our hotel in the village of Saviner di Laste, Italy. The clerk checked us in and asked if we wanted to eat at the hotel restaurant for $15 Euro a piece. Uh…. Yes.
I think I had pasta for dinner – no pic of that. But…. the gelato for dessert……
We had plenty of time today to enjoy our surroundings. Plenty of time to share meals together and plenty of time to just relax.
Passes today
Thune Pass
Stelle pass
Passo Tre Croci
Sankt Johann, Austria to Saviner di Laste, Italy
Just a sprinkle of rain as we left the hotel this morning. We stopped for gas and I put the rain gear on. Of course, that solidified the deal – it quit raining almost immediately after that.
Now heading back south, but not too far south, we slip back into Italy and wander at yet another section of the alps not previously seen.
Traffic in these parts is basically non-existent. We got the whole world right at the tips of our fingertips.
As they are located on the northern side of the range, these mountains are not quite as high as those further south. As such, we find ourselves riding in and out of patches of mostly conifer and evergreen forests.
We get to the top of a mountain pass, and the road heading down is only one lane. We arrive first in line at the electronic signal, but it says we have to wait 25 minutes for oncoming traffic to clear.
Now lets see – what shall we do with ourselves for 25 minutes? The local herd sure is friendly.
When whomever is in there comes out, they are gonna have quite a surprise.
Most assuredly, good things will come to those that wait.
That was by far the most enjoyable traffic delay of the ttrip. We run down the mountain unobstructed and stop at the bottom for coffee/pastry.
Soon enough, Greg’s route takes us to the next mountain.
We got the world by the short hairs, and you wanna know the best part?
We know it!
Sitrep behind: all good.
Sitrep in front: all good.
Marissa – I could NOT agree more!
This is another one of my favorite photos. This picture EXCLAIMS “Riding the Alps”.
The village of Cortina was hopping – everything looks so fresh and new. They obviously did a lot of work for the recent winter Olympics.
Greg likes this place, and so do I!
Come to think of it, I didn’t hear any complaints from these two either.
This is my kind of moto touring day – ride, stop, photo, ride, stop, photo, ride…..
Thank you for taking me to this place, my friend. I have had the most wonderful time.
In the middle of basically nowhere, we stop at this lunch place perched on the edge of the mountain.
Yep – this will do.
For quite a while, Greg has been telling us about this sandwich place. He said the food is good and the view is good. Well, here we are, and ….. yeppers, the food is good.
And the desserts were pretty good as well.
The clouds starting getting dark, and a peek of the radar did not look too promising. So we pressed the “easy” button and called it an early day. We rode through the rain for a half hour or so to our hotel in the village of Saviner di Laste, Italy. The clerk checked us in and asked if we wanted to eat at the hotel restaurant for $15 Euro a piece. Uh…. Yes.
I think I had pasta for dinner – no pic of that. But…. the gelato for dessert……
We had plenty of time today to enjoy our surroundings. Plenty of time to share meals together and plenty of time to just relax.
Passes today
Thune Pass
Stelle pass
Passo Tre Croci
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
That beautiful picture matches this one that I took in Misurina -
I was at the end at the restaurant parking lot.
IIRC, the building in the center is a children's convalescence home.
I was at the end at the restaurant parking lot.
IIRC, the building in the center is a children's convalescence home.
Last edited:
mello dude
Half genius, half dumazz whackjob foole
HPPants... .again I would like to give out a huge ginormous stupendous THANKS for this thread, I am loving it! 
Day 29:
Saviner di Laste, Italy to Sautens, Austria
I sit here in a hidden corner of the world that time forgot. A venerable paradise that is truly indescribably beautiful. The rain last night scrubbed the air, and I’m smelling bread baking in the village, along with a hint of something fruity. Maybe a cobbler or a tarte is coming for breakfast.
I fear that I cannot find the words to describe what the last 28 days have been like. The past 4000 miles on the motorcycle have been an incredible dream come true. It has been everything I hoped and it has been SO much more because I couldn’t have even imagined a lot of it.
Thankful and humble doesn’t seem to do it justice. I feel guilty for ever having complained about anything in my life. This kind of adventure and fortune doesn’t happen to complainers. I shall try to remember that going forward.
Enough musing. It’s time for breakfast, and the road waits for no one. A few more days left to see what we can see.
Chocolate cake for breakfast? Who am I to argue with cultural traditions?
I do my best work in the mornings. I sense that Greg may have gotten a bit frustrated with that, as it is clear he is NOT a morning person. Still – he kept it to himself and obliged us with a (relatively) early KSU time.
I might as well throw out the spoiler. It’s gonna be another great day in Europe.
If I’m lying, I’m dying…..
Greg’s route NEVER disappoints, and this morning, we are enjoying yet another lovely ride through the beautiful country of northern Italy.
Some 50-ish KM back, as we turned off one highway to this road, there was a very subtle sign that was orange. It referenced a road closure up ahead. Well – it took a while but we found it. And unfortunately, the GPS offered NO alternative route for us to detour. So we suffer in silence as we are forced to back track through this torturous land.
About halfway through our backtrack, we decide that to commemorate this faux pas, a stop for lunch and refreshments is in order.
As you can see, I am suffering terribly, here.
Let me offer a self-deprecating comment: I am a food snob. I live in the middle of some of the best food in the world (Cajun Country), and I know how to prepare it. When I travel, the bar is inevitably set very high, the expectations fairly low, and I am usually not surprised.
However, the Italians know how to cook.
They use local and fresh ingredients, and seem to find JUST the right mix of flavor and filling. And I’ll tell ya something else:
Their food is always beautifully presented.
After lunch, it’s back to the grind. Much of the northern alps are lower in altitude and therefore, more “woodsy” and greener.
In the afternoon, we got to the famous Timmelsjockstrass Highway, and that was a hoot to ride amongst the Porches, Beemers, Audis, etc.
I caught Greg and Bryan having a moment, lol
I can’t say as I blame them much!
Stay thirsty, my friends….
We cross the Austrian border and pay the toll for the highway, followed by this place.
The motorcycle museum was closed, but we did have dinner at the restaurant.
Another wonderful, perfect, flawless, boundless, endless, beautiful day.
The guys found us an apartment on the outskirts of the village of Sautens, Austria. Even the goat trail getting to the place was pleasant.
Before sleep, as always, I glanced through the pictures from today. The bed was comfortable and the temperature pleasant under the light blanket. I laid there quite honestly, in awe. I probably had 30 pictures from today that would easily have been THE trip highlight of the week from any other place. We might have planned to see this particular sight for days. We would have happily rode 500 or more miles through thick and thin just to get that one shot, and we would have been TOTALLY glad we did it.
Today, that seemingly happened every 20 minutes. My Happy Cup has run over.
Again.
Passes Today
Timmelsjockstrass Pass
Rombo Passe
Passo Carezza
Saviner di Laste, Italy to Sautens, Austria
I sit here in a hidden corner of the world that time forgot. A venerable paradise that is truly indescribably beautiful. The rain last night scrubbed the air, and I’m smelling bread baking in the village, along with a hint of something fruity. Maybe a cobbler or a tarte is coming for breakfast.
I fear that I cannot find the words to describe what the last 28 days have been like. The past 4000 miles on the motorcycle have been an incredible dream come true. It has been everything I hoped and it has been SO much more because I couldn’t have even imagined a lot of it.
Thankful and humble doesn’t seem to do it justice. I feel guilty for ever having complained about anything in my life. This kind of adventure and fortune doesn’t happen to complainers. I shall try to remember that going forward.
Enough musing. It’s time for breakfast, and the road waits for no one. A few more days left to see what we can see.
Chocolate cake for breakfast? Who am I to argue with cultural traditions?
I do my best work in the mornings. I sense that Greg may have gotten a bit frustrated with that, as it is clear he is NOT a morning person. Still – he kept it to himself and obliged us with a (relatively) early KSU time.
I might as well throw out the spoiler. It’s gonna be another great day in Europe.
If I’m lying, I’m dying…..
Greg’s route NEVER disappoints, and this morning, we are enjoying yet another lovely ride through the beautiful country of northern Italy.
Some 50-ish KM back, as we turned off one highway to this road, there was a very subtle sign that was orange. It referenced a road closure up ahead. Well – it took a while but we found it. And unfortunately, the GPS offered NO alternative route for us to detour. So we suffer in silence as we are forced to back track through this torturous land.
About halfway through our backtrack, we decide that to commemorate this faux pas, a stop for lunch and refreshments is in order.
As you can see, I am suffering terribly, here.
Let me offer a self-deprecating comment: I am a food snob. I live in the middle of some of the best food in the world (Cajun Country), and I know how to prepare it. When I travel, the bar is inevitably set very high, the expectations fairly low, and I am usually not surprised.
However, the Italians know how to cook.
They use local and fresh ingredients, and seem to find JUST the right mix of flavor and filling. And I’ll tell ya something else:
Their food is always beautifully presented.
After lunch, it’s back to the grind. Much of the northern alps are lower in altitude and therefore, more “woodsy” and greener.
In the afternoon, we got to the famous Timmelsjockstrass Highway, and that was a hoot to ride amongst the Porches, Beemers, Audis, etc.
I caught Greg and Bryan having a moment, lol
I can’t say as I blame them much!
Stay thirsty, my friends….
We cross the Austrian border and pay the toll for the highway, followed by this place.
The motorcycle museum was closed, but we did have dinner at the restaurant.
Another wonderful, perfect, flawless, boundless, endless, beautiful day.
The guys found us an apartment on the outskirts of the village of Sautens, Austria. Even the goat trail getting to the place was pleasant.
Before sleep, as always, I glanced through the pictures from today. The bed was comfortable and the temperature pleasant under the light blanket. I laid there quite honestly, in awe. I probably had 30 pictures from today that would easily have been THE trip highlight of the week from any other place. We might have planned to see this particular sight for days. We would have happily rode 500 or more miles through thick and thin just to get that one shot, and we would have been TOTALLY glad we did it.
Today, that seemingly happened every 20 minutes. My Happy Cup has run over.
Again.
Passes Today
Timmelsjockstrass Pass
Rombo Passe
Passo Carezza
the Ferret
Daily rider since May 1965
Stunning as usual
Moto-Charlie
Vendor
The Timmelsjoch is a great pass with two different personalities, easy open turns on the Austrian side, long narrow and twisty on the Italian side. It's one of the highest passes in the Alps.
It's too bad the Top Mountain Crosspoint motorcycle museum was closed. I stop every time we go by so my group can visit. It is the highest motorcycle museum in Europe with over 620 exhibits. It is much larger inside than it looks from the outside. Somehow it caught fire in January 2021 while it was closed due to COVID. The building was essentially destroyed, and they lost hundreds of rare classic motorcycles. Somehow the two brothers who own it managed to rebuild it within a year and restock it with even more exhibits due to support from a lot of motorcycle enthusiasts. Here is a brief overview of the museum from MCN.
It's too bad the Top Mountain Crosspoint motorcycle museum was closed. I stop every time we go by so my group can visit. It is the highest motorcycle museum in Europe with over 620 exhibits. It is much larger inside than it looks from the outside. Somehow it caught fire in January 2021 while it was closed due to COVID. The building was essentially destroyed, and they lost hundreds of rare classic motorcycles. Somehow the two brothers who own it managed to rebuild it within a year and restock it with even more exhibits due to support from a lot of motorcycle enthusiasts. Here is a brief overview of the museum from MCN.
We were at the museum 2 years ago. Yes it is big. Has many old/weird bikes from the beginning of 19th century you probably won't see anywhere else.
It was September and pretty chilly. Only us and one more couple on the RT were there.
It was September and pretty chilly. Only us and one more couple on the RT were there.
I think you mean the beginning of the 20th century?
We took too long to get there - too much stuff to see OTW. Next time (if there is a next time), the museum will be a priority.
We took too long to get there - too much stuff to see OTW. Next time (if there is a next time), the museum will be a priority.
That's right
Just an awesome ride... In prose and pictures. Thank you sir!
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2013
- Messages
- 78
- Age
- 70
- Location
- Gloucester, UK
- Bike
- 1990/2002 ST1100
- 2026 Miles
- 005735
Yes, I'll echo that. Although I'm in Europe (no matter what those pesky Brexiteers say
) and I can realistically pop down there fairly easily, this is a really great thread to follow, your pictures and narrative are a delight to read each evening. Just one question though..... how on earth did you arrange the weather? Our waterproofs come out more than I like to admit when we head south.