I usually buy my parts from
Service Honda.
On the carb service, a few more tips. Remove the air cleaner top (10 screws?) and bottom (6 screws.) Necessary to work the bottom up over the velocity stacks. The front hoses (secondary air) and one hose under the air cleaner (crankcase vent) have to be moved/removed. Remove 2 screws from the vacuum fuel valve and remove the fuel hose from the valve. As mentioned, loosen the top clamp on all 4 boots, pry up (a broom stick is good) from the rear.
Loosen the screw for the choke cable and remove the cable. Remove the two screws at the throttle cable bell crank and remove those cables. Shouldn't be necessary to loosen the adjustment nuts. Pull the overflow hoses off the bottoms of the carb floats.
Once the carbs are free of the bike, take'em outside and open the drain screws. To save another step later, do'em one at a time into a graduated bowl. All 4 should have the same amount of fuel. Forget the exact amount but if it's high (rich) or low (lean) the floats on the guilty carbs will have to be adjusted.
On a bench, turn the assembly upside down. Remove the float bowls one at a time and remove the low speed jets. These are probably the culprit. Clean with a small brass wire, make sure all eigt side holes are clean, too. After clearing the blockage, clean'em in strong solution (I use MEK or Acetone.) Long as yur in there, check the main jet, too.
Turn back to top side and remove the tops. There's a soft spring in each but nothng that's gonna go "sproing!" Remove the diaphragms and slides. Check the diaphragms closely for holes and tears. Treat them gently as they are expensive.
Check the needles for crud and wear, and check the orifice a the bottom of the bore for wear. With all four diaphragms removed, you can force air and/or cleaner thru all the orifices.
Don't do this with the diaphragms in place!!
With the carbs off the bike, remove the rubber sheet and check all the hoses and hose clamps in the valley. Pretty common for there to be loose clamps and evidence of small coolant leaks.
With the carbs reassembled, time to replace the boots. Those 18 year old hunks-o-rubber are prolly pretty firm by now. Note the position of each and put the new one on in the same orientation. with the bottom clamps now tight and the top clamps in place but loose, time to apply... (my secret weapon)
Plumbers Grease, available at yur local Ace or True Value or Home Depot or Lowes or anywhere else that handles plumbing. It's exactly the right stuff for this. Apply fairly liberally to both boots and carb bells.
Replace the rubber sheet.
Place the carbs on top of the boots and reattach the overflow tubes and throttle cables.
Put one side in place and push down firmly _on the opposite side carb tops directly into the boots. Now, the fun part (I use a 2 foot piece of 2" ABS plumbing pipe for this.) Push down and in on the front carb (if ya did 2/4 first, now push on 1). When ya htink it's close, move to the rear and do the same thing. Alternate til they slip into place. Right when ya think they'll never fit, it'll come together.
Reattach the choke cable and the fuel hose, install the air cleaner, reattach the vacuum fuel valve, and...
GO RIDE!!!
What did I forget?
If ya didn't fiddle with the carb synch screws, and ya put all the same parts back in each carb, you'll be okay for a test ride. It'd be a good idea, tho, to synch the carbs and do 50 RPM drop test.
I just did all this stuff on ReSTored last week. Made a big diff in the gas mileage.
Where in SoCal? I'm close enuff to help when I'm in the area.