Re-baking my ST1300 (Almost-full-redoing)

Joined
Oct 4, 2024
Messages
71
Location
Spain
Bike
ST1300
Hello. Sadly this brutal thread I did before was completely erased because servers issues. So I'm posting back again at least the most important of it, as it was close to a year of hard work cooking back a really bad-shaped ST1300. It will not be the 10-ish pages of pictures and explanations it was before, but I'll do my best so you can comment and ask back whatever you could need in order to help you rework or know better your ST1300.

See you soon.
 
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hi @leondante haven't heard from you for a while. Very curious about progress on the ST 1300.

Hello. It's stalled by now. I'm putting the next steps when I do them, by now I just started polishing the catalitic converters and haven't finished polishing the headlight I started like a month ago. I'm doing other stuff right now, as I'm not using the bike until next spring.
 
Thank you for the reply. Good to know you are still doing well. I understand that winter is a busy time when other things take precedence.
 

OK, here we go again.

The main purpose was to show the insides of the ST1300 to everyone, and get people to ask specific questions about it to show how to fix specific stuff. If I start explaining everything I could be all my life and not finish it. For that you can just check out the workshop manual everytime you go to the bathroom. (I'm actually doing it with the Kawasaki EN500 workshop manual. I printed it and I'm on my way to read all that stuff. Same with the Yamaha Vmax 1200 soon).

SO, if you wan to know something SPECIFICALLY let me know, as I'm not getting deep on things if someone don't ask it.
I recall someone asking for wiring fixing, so I'm getting serious explaining that. Mine had the wires fully barbeque roasted so I found the connectors, special wires and made all the engine harness from scratch, but with thermal insulation improvings.
For those interested, I'm installing an alarm, a GPS tracker and a speeed-radar warning device, also a tire pressure small screen, a voltmeter and a thermometer for the alternator, where the dead-weak-point is in this bike (all the broken ones in Spain are dead because the alternator, the reason why I got mine for 500 euros).
So, "In the beggining, there was a dead ST1300"... And it came to me like this:
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All the parts absent in the picture were inside my car already. I was a rainy day. The diagnostic was a dead alternator, broken apart into pieces in my hands. The bearings failed and the rotor got mauled just enough to break the wiring. I was ready to open it and rework it but the workshop, kinda a zoo of monkeys, lost a key and the back of the alternator. I had to buy it new, as used was not worthy. I paid 800 euros for it new, as I'm not playing games when fixing stuff, no matter if it's for me or not, usually.

So, after a bit of thinking, I took off just the parts that needed some kind of fixing or cleaning.
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Notice the plugs for the alternator hole and the admission things, I made them with 3D printer to fit perfectly and bear the brushing and all the thing I was going to do in order to get that nasty stuff off.

I'm creating a lot of posts so I'm not losing progress, I don't want to make massive posts, just in case.
 
I wasn't playing games, so I brushed it with gasoline, the only thing I know that dissolves grease and oily goo without damaging anything. I got really bad sniffing gasoline vapors, even using masks (carbon ones). I got to the point where even after showering I smelled gasoline in the air I was exhaling. Crazy. Anyways I'm good and just got some dizzy those days. I'm glad I'm not doing that everyday, just like 3 or 4 days every couple years with some project. The results were worthy.
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It was the moment to fix anything on the back of the engine, starting for the slave clutch cylinder. I was sure it could be bad, but boy I wasn't expeting to get profecy levels:
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Anyways some good cleaning did the trick and thing worked smooth like nothing. Everything was kinda marked because the crappy creppe it has inside but was OK to work another 100k kilometers.
The secret is that water is more dense than brake fluid so it goes always down the system. Even if you bleed it the water remains at the lowest points if it has not a draining there. And our ST1300 has NOT a drain under the slave cylinder here, it has it at the upper part. So the water did not got out, rotting the thing from the inside. That's why I open the brake calipers too, you can take out the air, but not the water outside them.
I also fixed the gearbox bar, and changed the gearbox seal, as it looked like it was leaking. The speedometer wire was a bit cracky, so I cleaned it and reinforced it a bit.
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I forgot to post some other pictures of the cleaning's final results.
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NEXT ONE, the starter motor:

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Just cleaning, greasing and assembling again.
The secret about starter motors is that the carbon from the brushes is conductive (obviously) so it makes short-circuits after some time in there filling gaps, making the motor to lose power and getting heaty faster, all bad stuff. Cleaning it every three years of this dust and changing the brushes on time makes it virtually eternal. Just cleaning with gasoline and greasing and is all good to go. The important stuff is cleaning between the copper bits, there is where the short circuits are made. I usually use a wire brush, and get to be sure all the copper is clean to the flesh.

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NEXT ONE, the universal joint.
About this, the secret is that it can last almost forever if you grease it properly when it's needed.
I don't know one of these going bad without losing its grease before. Even for my car I bought special ones with greasing knobs (or whatever you call those small balls to connect the hydraulic greaser). So, I was decided to get grease inside my universal joint. The way of getting inside that castity belt of a universal joint was cracking up a small cross at the middle of the lids, so my cobalt drill bit could break in. It was impossible even with an industrial drill press. Only that small cross did the trick to make a small hole to inject grease in there. And it worked great. All the dirt got out the joint clearly and my grease floooooded everything. I was so happy!
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Only after being sure every dirt was out, I cleaned the outsides with paper towels taking out the profaned grease and sealed it with silicone based joint glue or whatever you call that. To be sure, I cleaned the surface where the silicone was going to go with gasoline, I needed that to be stuck there forever for real.

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NEEEEEXT ONE, the swing arm.
I was sure it was BLACK. FFS. It was all dirt, all of it was DIRT. Just unearthy stuff.
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Things got weird cleaning this. I first used an alcaline special soap for workshop floors. I got to notice the previous owner did some kind of road devil treaty where he did drive over fresh pavement, getting all of small bits of ticks of greasy black peanuts and small other rocks fully stuck on the surface.

AGAIN, gasoline did the trick.


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I would drink gasoline just for the sake of its dignity if it weren't toxic. The swing arm got like new.
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Assembling the swing arm. There are other parts in the pictures, from the wheels I think.
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I made a special washer with cardboard for joints, to get the rubber boot for the universal joint in place. I don't know why but it wasn't getting there by itself. It was not deformed, it just was not that size, so that washer did the trick really good.
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The rear shock absorber was broken, as expected, as the o-rings were gone long time ago, so the regulator was not working. All of those seals new and a bit of fork oil and there I fixed it! The hose, tube or whatever you called it (I just forgot the name...) was really bad, so I bought a teflon one new from aliexpress to the exact size and it fitted perfect the thing. It is really better than the old one, as it's teflon inside, a stainless steel braid outside and some plastic rubber over all that to protect it, with 250 bar of working pressure and 400 bar of bursting pressure. Extreme overkill for that task.

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The swing arm races look in pitted or are least appear that way.

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In that picture the old grease was still in there and looks like that, actually they were in perfect condition. I would have changed them if not. I changed almost everything I found to be a bit in bad shape.
 
In that picture the old grease was still in there and looks like that, actually they were in perfect condition. I would have changed them if not. I changed almost everything I found to be a bit in bad shape.

I have to correct myself. It was clean indeed. Yes, the races had marks on them. Didn't seem a matter to me as they were just marks and nothing more than that, and after tightening and greasing it the whole moved firmly and smoothly. So by now they will be there for longer. No wonder that, as those don't get to spin, but to move just a bit to each side, so only a bit of the bearing is actually used.
 
Wow,
All I can say is wow! Impressive. Very cool to see the engine and sub frame in that state, my brain absolutely crumples when thinking about the put back together.
Can’t be much OCD working there, oh no, and I thought I was bad!! 😂
 
@leondante Thank you for rebuilding your restoration story. Everything you touch becomes a work of art! You are very inspiring! I am excited to see the finished bike!
 
Hello again everyone. Thank you for your support. I want to inspire others to risk breaking things, indeed. But never forget that breaking things is the real price sometimes, and the money you have to spend there is the price of the school. You must pay for learning, it can be going to a professional that broke things before, spending absurd amount of time looking for others breaking things properly who wanted to share their work (sometimes they don't show the real process of breaking and messing up and only show you how it's supposed to be) or breaking things yourself. I've tried every one of those options. The best quality/price balance is into doing it one by itself, as I have found in my experience (could be not yours...). The key thing you learn that way is how NOT to mess up when fingering stuff. You learn that the first and fast, as it is what really cost you money and time and makes you suffer. And that's accumulative, so really fast you learn to get touchy with things you don't know without really messing up that bad, and that's pretty profitable. You learn to fix things you never did before, as you learn to face the unknown stuff, you learn to face problems outside your comfort zone. And that's pretty cool.

ABOUT MY STANDARDS:

I want you to know about them so you can have a proper sight of what I'm doing.

I am deeply and properly BORED inside so I express myself joking a lot, have this on mind. I make up words and expressions sometimes trying to be expressive of some kind of point I want to emphasize. Sometimes I make grammar mistakes, I'm sorry about that, I'm doing my best.

I like to follow the workshop manual, but I am NOT buying absurdly expensive tools for one time use, so sometimes I improvise similar solutions, having in mind the risk I'm facing with that. Other times I make the tools by myself. I'm a proud owner of a 800 Nm wrench I made myself, saving me like 500€ for it, and it cost me like 20€ of parts and a couple hours of work. What I really have in mind is respecting the physics and chemistry in the process when working. At the end of everything it doesn't matter if your tool had the Honda logo on it, but if you did it exactly as needed for the parts to get the proper result without risks, overprices or damaging anything, among other minor things.

And that's why I don't check the brand of my tools and parts, but its quality. I buy a lot on Aliexpress. I've bought copies of things for this bike there. My motorcycle will not be cursed or lose value because of it. It will do if the parts are BAD or worse than the original, more or less, or if I'm creating risks or getting worse output from the bike.

e.g. I bought the small rubber boot for the front brake lever piston in Aliexpress. It was like 3€ for FIVE of them. It was an impressive exact copy of the original, which was like 15€ only ONE. Maybe more expensive than that. Its a rubber part for stopping dust getting in there and grease to come out. That's it. There are NO risks of killing anyone or breaking the bike in half (I'm NOT talking about the main piston seal, NOPE). It's not reasonable in that specific situation to overspend my money, having a lot of other things that are important for real where to put my money (a new original alternator, as I told before, that is perfectly justified in my opinion!).

Other example. I bought a couple of footrests for the driver on Aliexpress, a copy of the CBR600 ones, that fit amazing, as they were original of it. Around 8€ I think? Hey, better than having only one, as it was in my case! I'm not spending 50€ each for the original ones, it's absurd.

For the mechanical parts, I like to use the correct torques. I use the torque wrench a lot. I like good quality screws, those are the most weak parts I know, so I like them in good condition and in good material. The same for washers, somehow. I like good quality for grease and oils, and I respect the kind of grease intended for each moving part, sometimes I try to put better ones than the original. Checking out how it was before cleaning gives you a good tip about if it was correctly selected or not.

Automotive brands are NOT magicians, they can fail and are not superwise extra-powered gods. You can improve their designs, sometimes very easily. I do not worship them, and having your own mind is OK. You can also think stuff, don't be a sheep.

I also like good quality for bearings and seals. I use some french online store (123rodamiento.es in my location) where I found the most exquisite variety of bearings and seals of any brand and settings you could desire. I chose to get pretty better bearings for my bike than the original ones, and I'm paying less than half for them. e.g. And I checked them and compared them, the old original ones and the new ones from that store that I selected specifically from all the options, and damn it they are better! We are 24 years ahead the desing of the ST1300. You can't expect less than a brutal improvement in everything. Getting the original ones, with 24 years of technology outdating (sometimes is not that way), cannot be better.
 
I took out the FRONT FORK and the steering stuff. It was really weak and I didn't like it, it should be a bit tight when you swing it from side to side, and it wasn't. It can be sensed as it has not any play, even it is very soft to move, but it needs to be a bit tight because under all the pressure of forces when driving it can cause vibrations and stuff. So, I dissasembled it and cleaned it and put it back together, being sure it had the 2kg of strenght needed to get to move when not completely assembled the fork.

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I had to create my own adaptors to put the correct torque to it. Here you have one for the steering and one for the swing arm.

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The FRONT FORK itself was a bit of a work. I like some things to be PERFECT in my bikes. Those are the passive security things and the active security things. After all of that, I get to make some interest for the engine stuff. But if those main ones are not properly working I cannot be in peace riding a bike.

The passive stuff are these things, from most to less important for safety. Can be not exactly in that order as it depends on some factors, but it's around these:

- Tires in proper condition, balancing included.
- Bearings of the wheels.
- Bearings of the steering.
- Any kind of moving surface that works the shock absorbers (suspension and amortiguation, as we call those different things in spanish) [The suspension is what the springs do, keeping the vehicle mass "in the air", able to keep its momentum without hitting the ground with it. The amortiguation (the heck I don't know the name in english) stops the vibrations caused by those springs doing their job).
- All of the things that transfer to you any kind of force the vehicle should transfer you (footrests, seat, hand grips, etc.)

The active stuff is just the brakes in a motorcycle, AFAIK by now. In the car you have the seatbelts, airbags, blablalblahba. And for brakes I mean everything related to it, ABS included. But ABS is not vital, as it can be a really life-saving stuff it will obviously not be as important as the main brakes function.

And that's why I usually make a full remake of the front fork, as it's even more important than the rear suspension. In over-steering vehicles the control is on the front wheels. If you have good grip on the front stuff you have the vehicle under your skills and only under that (in normal conditions). In under-steering vehicles you have not the control, except if you are a lot under the break point of control. In motorcycles if you lose grip on the front wheel the floor is your destiny. You have not other wheel to save you. That's why I hate scooters, they are under-steering vehicles. You will lose grip first on the front wheel. Imagine a front wheel slipping on a turn with the rear wheel pushing you. The floor is your destiny. But in over-steering ones the rear wheel is what starts skidding first, so the control will be on your skills from there, and you'll count only with your front wheel, that will keep you being the master of your possibilities from there. A good gripped front wheel with a skidding rear wheel pushing you only will get you kinda of a nice donut if you have the skills or just a jumpscare if you are being cautious, and not a meat crayon on the highway. I hope it makes sense what I'm trying to share, remember it's an effor to me speak this language.


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Bushes were old, so I got new bushes, new seals, new oil, blalbalblab. The teflon covering of the bushes was gone, so new ones, the four of them.


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NEXT STUFF, the wheels.

The dude painted them wheels with spray black paint. A pretty bad neighbourhood paint. My very friend of a substance that acetone is did the trick. So I was able to take out some neurons of mine and the paint too, sniffing some acetone for a while. First I washed them with that pink alcaline workshop floor degreaser I told before (which is impressive to take out the weird brown grease that the rubber of the tires sweat, making them full black again). Then I cleaned them with acetone and paper towels.

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I was so excited about the results that I forgot to take pictures of the front wheel cleaned from the paint.

I used a chinese cheap paint pencil for the letters. It's some specific oil based paint for tires, so I hope it last some good time there. Anyways looks great and rebranding them again wouldn't be anything but easy and kinda fast. And it can be cleaned with (of course) gasoline if something turns bad.

FFW the final result. Also, new special bearings and seals for my nice wheels. I plan to paint all the bike later but not for now.



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Slow and steady my body is getting ready to test this massive piece of art, but my hair is getting gray doing all of this job. I just want to use it before retirement.

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Cooler stuff is coming. I'm saving the brakes and wiring for special and specific posts, as they were the most worky stuff here. And I did not properly the wiring stuff yet on the bike (alarm, GPS tracker, etc).
 
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