Where to get new brake lines for my 2010 ST1300 NON-ABS?

Joined
Feb 26, 2026
Messages
10
Age
49
Location
Reno, NV
Bike
2010 Honda ST1300
I usually get all of my brake lines from Spiegler. My BMW, Shadow 1100, they've always had a brake line kit for my needs. Not so with the ST 1300 though. They don't sell them.

So where do I get a brake line kit for my 2010 ST1300? NON-ABS.

Thanks!
 
I usually get all of my brake lines from Spiegler. My BMW, Shadow 1100, they've always had a brake line kit for my needs. Not so with the ST 1300 though. They don't sell them.

So where do I get a brake line kit for my 2010 ST1300? NON-ABS.

Thanks!

I made them with AN3 standard things from Aliexpress. Check out my only one thread.
 
I bought a new clutch and brake line from HEL and had pretty good results, be warned the kit is VERY expensive as there are a LOT of lines, 16 if I remember correctly (at least on the ABS bike). Even the non-ABS bikes probably still has a lot of lines.
 
Talk to @sirbike and @jfheath, both of them have recently replaced brake lines - the whole system if I'm not mistaken. Hopefully one or both of them will chime in seeing I mentioned their names (Gordon Lightfoot springs to mind here). If not, PM them.

I can echo @Nightmare's comment. The whole system is expensive (better part of $1,000) and it is an enormous amount of work. @leondante's way might be the way to go.
 
I have my hoses made locally at the Hose & Hydraulic shop. I take them the original hose and they make new ones. I'd guess this is pretty common and has been a pretty good deal from a price point too.
 
The kit provided for the ST1300 from Hel does not cater for the ABS or the models from 2008 onwards.
I bought a full HEL kit and had problems. Fitting around the steering head column - left and right side.

My model was a 2009 ABS version (UK).

1772703850614.png



ABS issues :

2009 RHS Headstock ABS - 25pc.jpg This is a view of the headstock on the right hand side. The right hand upper fork leg is on the right.

2 unions 'blocks' are bolted onto the headstock. Metal pipework to the left of the block - secured by a gland nut. The metal pipe to the right of the blocks are both part of the fitting of the flexible hose. The gland nut is part of the metal pipework and is unscrewed tediously a fraction of a turn at a time. There is no washer or seal - it seats in a similar way to a bleed valve. Metal on metal. There is a torques setting, but you cannot get a torque device in there. Just get an idea of what that torque value feels like on another bolt, using the same spanner.

The top one is Part 2 on the coloured diagram above - the line from the front brake lever.
The bottom one is part 11 on the colured diagram - line to the front right top caliper - which includes the union for the metal pip across the mudguard.

The two lines emerging from this to the left hand side feed to the inlet and the outlet of the ABS pump. These are rigid and cannot move.

So the fact that those two bolts are not positioned centrally in the metal block is very significant.
The nylon blocks provided with the HEL lines are quite robust - but all of the mounting holes are positioned centrally, not offset. And they will not fit without drilling the hole in the correct position. I managed it, but the hole was running pretty close to the outside of the Nylon block.

However a bike without ABS does not have that restriction. There is a simple W shaped pipe which joins one block to the other and it has no other fixing point.

@billo reported no problems when he was fitting his to his 2003 non-abs model.


On the left hand side Part number 8 and part number 4 are involved. Note that part number 8 has a bracket, but the HEL lines are not provided with one - I had to make one.

Modified F05 #8.jpg

This is the nylon block fitted onto the end of the brak lline - the flexible hose's metal union emerges from the opposite side. The metal plate is bolted and glues to the nylon bock.
The mounting bolt will fit through my hole on the right hand side of the picture. The problem is, there is not enough room to turn the bolt head. So the plate had to be mounted first. and the hex head on the top side of the photo had to be ground down so that the hex head was no longer a hexagon. THis then became a cative nut as it could not turn when the plate was bolted to the headstock. This was another long winded trial-and-improvement approac to what I laughingly call 'engineering'
Tedious, but it worked.

I had already contacted HEL at this point having spent 3 days trying to get the lines to fit. "You shouldn't have to do that sir, they should just fit".
I know that @billo had to do something similar for his 2003 non-ABS bike.

Lines 5 & 11, right hand caliper and lines 7 and 13 (left hand caliper) - do not fit at all. I could make the short ones fit - but they were tight and interfered with the correct movement of the caliper.The longer ones fitted up to the union block where the pipes cross the mudguard. The right hand one was a forced fit - which I didn't force. The left hand one - the short link between the SMC and the caliper would not join up at all. You can rotate the metal unions at the end of the hoses, but this didn't make any difference.

In spite of the advertising on the website, which claimed that they fitted 2002 to 2013 (i think it said) , they had not been aware of the issues with the ABS pipework or with the fact that the entire front brake system was redesigned for the 2008 and later models.

Yours is not ABS - but it would still have the same problems on the front calipers - as yours is after 2007.

I got my money back - in spite of many of the lines being fitted and refitted . No arguments, and I was able to tell them exactly where the differences were.

I also got the rear lines, and noted that one of those didn't have any support for the union. They said that they just used a P clip - which they had not provided. And one of them needs a back plate like the one on the left front headstock.

I cut my losses and bought Honda instead - having re-fitted my old lines - ready for the MOT which was looming. I didn't buy all of the HOnda liness - I decided that the lines that go from near the rear master cylinder to the metal pipes across the swing arm looked to be in pretty good condition, but I bought the two that go to the rear caliper. I think it was only about £100 more than I had paid for the full HEL set.

Note also - the HEL lines are thinner. They don't have the protective outer sheaths. They DO have the rubber mounting blocks, but they are small than OEM so would need padding to be properly clamped. This would be necessary particualrly at that 3-hose clamp across the upper fork legs, otherwise every turn of the bars would result in the brake lines moving within the clamp. I reckon that might be a steering / abrasion issue for the future. The Honda lines come with everything. The old one come off, the new ones go on. Perfect fit.

Shortly after doing this, I got the MOT and that was the last time I rode my 1300. The OEM lines never went on. I gave the ST1300 to my brother and am waiting for the day when he wants them fitting !

If you wanted the HEL lines, you would have to remove your present lines and send them to HEL so that they could make a bespoke set. But you would still need to find solutions for the rubber clamping and the mounting blocks that (do not) have a mounting plate.
 
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... you would still need to find solutions for the rubber clamping and the mounting blocks that (do not) have a mounting plate.
And I wonder why they just never include that...
Should be easy to make some molded rubber blocks that clip over their thinner braided lines to install them securely along the OEM line routing on your motorcycle...
But whatever MFG I've checked on, no solution for proper mounting offered by any of them...
 
Apologies - I mis-remembered (!) - HEL lines do have rubber blocks - but they are too small to be of any use - they need extra padding to be properly clamped in the Honda clips.
I'll correct my earlier post.

Example - here are the HEL lines for the front calipers (ST1300A9, ABS)

The hsoes are fresh out of the box - the photo shows just the frotn set - Daigram in the photo is the same as the diagram in my earlier post.
F05 Front Calipers.jpg

And here is the Honda line - the equivalent of #11

Protective sleeve on each section.
Substantial rubber block with bracket already fitted.

20260305_153230.jpg

Don't get me wrong - I was determined to make them fit having bought the full setup. They look neat and smart.
But I was struggling with a very weak calf muscle still not repaired after it snapped putting the ST1300 on its centre stand. I was hobbling round the garage. Every time I needed to get down to sit on the stool alongside the bike on the ramp, it was a major effort, and there was no guarantee that I'd be able to get up again.

After working on the front lines for a full week, I'd had enough and ordered the Honda lines before HEL had agreed to the refund.

They had no come back really - the site said everything for a hassle free installation, and that a the kit fitted all of the ST1300 bikes.

The Honda lines took a while to arrive and I didn't get them on in time for the MOT, so I put all the old ones back on - which I did in a couple of hours, incuding the first fill and bleed.
 
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That's interesting about HEL, I ran into the same problem that jfheath had with the rigid steel lines to the HEL nylon block, since I was only replacing the line to the master cylinder it was relatively easy to get it to work by redrilling the hole and sanding down the block to make it fit.
 
The kit provided for the ST1300 from Hel does not cater for the ABS or the models from 2008 onwards.
I bought a full HEL kit and had problems. Fitting around the steering head column - left and right side.

My model was a 2009 ABS version (UK).

1772703850614.png



ABS issues :

2009 RHS Headstock ABS - 25pc.jpg This is a view of the headstock on the right hand side. The right hand upper fork leg is on the right.

2 unions 'blocks' are bolted onto the headstock. Metal pipework to the left of the block - secured by a gland nut. The metal pipe to the right of the blocks are both part of the fitting of the flexible hose. The gland nut is part of the metal pipework and is unscrewed tediously a fraction of a turn at a time. There is no washer or seal - it seats in a similar way to a bleed valve. Metal on metal. There is a torques setting, but you cannot get a torque device in there. Just get an idea of what that torque value feels like on another bolt, using the same spanner.

The top one is Part 2 on the coloured diagram above - the line from the front brake lever.
The bottom one is part 11 on the colured diagram - line to the front right top caliper - which includes the union for the metal pip across the mudguard.

The two lines emerging from this to the left hand side feed to the inlet and the outlet of the ABS pump. These are rigid and cannot move.

So the fact that those two bolts are not positioned centrally in the metal block is very significant.
The nylon blocks provided witht he HEL lines are prtty robust - but all of the mountin holes are positioned centrally, not offset. And they will not fit without drilling the hole in the correct position. I managed it, but the hole was running pretty close tot eh otside of the Nylon block.

However a bike without ABS does not have that restriction. There is a simple W shaped ppe which joins one block to the other and it has no other fixing point.

@sirbike reported not problems when he was fitting his to his 2003 non-abs model.












On the left hand side PArt number 8 and part number 4 are involved. Note that part number 8 has a bracket, but the HEL lines are not provided with one - I had to make one.

Modified F05 #8.jpg

This is the nylon block fitted onto the end of the brak lline - the flexible hose's metal union emerges from the opposite side. The metal plate is bolted and glues to the nylon bock.
The mounting bolt will fit through my hole on the right hand side of the picture. The problem is, there is not enough room to turn the bolt head. So the plate had to be mounted first. and the hex head on the top side of the photo had to be ground down so that the hex head was no longer a hexagon. THis then became a cative nut as it could not turn when the plate was bolted to the headstock. This was another long winded trial-and-improvement approac to what I laughingly call 'engineering'
Tedious, but it worked.

I had already contacted HEL at this point having spent 3 days trying to get the lines to fit. "You shouldn't have to do that sir, they should just fit".
I know that @sirbike had to do something similar for his 2003 non-ABS bike.

Lines 5 & 11, right hand caliper and lines 7 and 13 (left hand caliper) - do not fit at all. I could make the short ones fit - but they were tight and interfered with the correct movement of the caliper.The longer ones fitted up to the union block where the pipes cross the mudguard. The right hand one was a forced fit - which I didn't force. The left hand one - the short link between the SMC and the caliper would not join up at all. You can rotate the metal unions at the end of the hoses, but this didn't make any difference.

In spite of the advertising on the website, which claimed that they fitted 2002 to 2013 (i think it said) , they had not been aware of the issues with the ABS pipework or with the fact that the entire front brake system was redesigned for the 2008 and later models.

Yours is not ABS - but it would still have the same problems on the front calipers as yours is after 2007.

I got my money back - in spite of many of the lines being fitted and refitted . No arguments, and I was able to tell them exactly where the differences were.

I also got the rear lines, and noted that one of those didn't have any support for the union. They said that they just used a P clip - which they had not provided. And one of them needs a back plate like the one on the left front headstock.

I cut my losses and bought Honda instead - having re-fitted my old lines - ready for the MOT which was looming. I didn't buy all of the HOnda liness - I decided that the lines that go from near the rear master cylinder to the metal pipes across the swing arm looked to be in pretty good condition, but I bought the two that go to the rear caliper. I think it was only about £100 more than I had paid for the full HEL set.

Note also - the HEL lines are thinner. They don't have the protective outer sheaths. They DO have the rubber mounting blocks, but they are small than OEM so would need padding to be properly clamped. This would be necessary particualrly at that 3-hose clamp across the upper fork legs, otherwise every turn of the bars would result in the brake lines moving within the clamp. I reckon that might be a steering / abrasion issue for the future. The Honda lines come with everything. The old one come off, the new ones go on. Perfect fit.

Shortly after doing this, I got the MOT and that was the last time I rode my 1300. The OEM lines never went on. I gave the ST1300 to my brother and am waiting for the day when he wants them fitting !

If you wanted the HEL lines, you would have to remove your present lines and send them to HEL so that they could make a bespoke set. But you would still need to find solutions for the rubber clamping and the mounting blocks that (do not) have a mounting plate.
Very informative. Thank you! What a maze of lines!! ugh...
 
I know that @sirbike had to do something similar for his 2003 non-ABS bike.

@sirbike reported not problems when he was fitting his to his 2003 non-abs model.

Correction, I have a Tower Silver 2009 ST1300.

I’ve worked with GBrakes, formerly Galfer USA to make the full kit available for 2008+ ABS.
And as a result of that, they can make available a partial kit for ABS and nonABS that includes all the lines at the front of the bike with the rear lines running from the hard pipe on the swing arm to the rear caliper. To be clear, that partial kit does not include the lines from the rear of the main frame to the swing arm and rear master cylinder.

The frame to swing arm and rear mc lines are the difference between abs and non abs.

Running those lines is the difference between typical brake line replacement, however, a lot of lines, and removing everything after of the main frame except the swing arm. Even then I took the swing arm off because it made more room to get the fender off and just more room to work in general. IMG_8759.pngIMG_8882.jpegIMG_8885.jpegIMG_8887.jpegIMG_9126.jpegIMG_9120.pngIMG_9119.jpeg

It comes at a lower price point the HEL.
Like the HEL there are a couple fitment issues requiring creativity.

A junction block on left side of headstock needs an extension tab.
There is a line going from the rear mc to a junction block meeting pipe above the battery. The aftermarket block mounting hole does not line up with the oem hole. I fit the block in place, drilled the new hole in the mounting bracket, shaved down on side of a nut to fit behind the bracket, then bolted it.

What I came to realize seeing the need for figuring out how to rig things that don’t simply bolt on like oem is that these aftermarket lines are not 100% custom made.
They are made from off the shelf parts.
For instance off the shelf junction blocks fit in the place of most of the oem blocks. But not that one block with a tab this way or that.
The aftermarket market shop is going to weld a on a tab because welding is their business. However, a professional installer will get it installed.

The other thing is banjos.
They don’t make custom banjos. These are off the shelf components that are mated to brake hose.
In any event most of the oem banjos are matched by the aftermarket and the one strange oem can be matched close enough to work. Perhaps the custom line needs to be a 1/4” longer and the custom line place has all that figured out.

So my overall take on this is:

If you can replace all of the lines which require removing the rear subframe and gas tank, then you have the ability to make a tab here and drill a hole there to get it done and may as well go stainless or as much stainless as is available for your bike.
Big note here is pressure test everything as best as possible before installing the rear subframe.

For the most safety replace all the old and aging lines.

For the most performance improvement without a ton of work get the partial kit in stainless if available or have a company make them.

IMG_8759.pngIMG_8882.jpegIMG_8885.jpegIMG_8887.jpegIMG_9126.jpegIMG_9120.pngIMG_9119.jpeg
 
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