Bosch Oil filter 3330 on the ST1100

Sunday Rider

Sunday Rider

Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Messages
1,346
Age
70
Location
Aurora, Ontario
Bike
1997 ST1100
Has anyone used the Bosch 3330 oil filter on the ST1100? I got a killer deal on them as I saw them as one of the alternative oil filters to OEM sometime ago. I've been using the Bosch 3323 for the last few years. In comparison to the 3323, the 3330 is shorter and wider than the 3323.
 
Sunday Rider said:
Has anyone used the Bosch 3330 oil filter on the ST1100? I got a killer deal on them as I saw them as one of the alternative oil filters to OEM sometime ago. I've been using the Bosch 3323 for the last few years. In comparison to the 3323, the 3330 is shorter and wider than the 3323.
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As far as I can see they both use the same premium filter media so I would suspect the other internal are the same.
 
Sunday Rider said:
I am more worried about the O ring seal as it is slightly larger in diameter than the 3323.
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take a light coat of oil on the engine oil filter mounting surface, lightly screw on the oil filter dry just enough to make contact and take it off. The oil should leave a picture of how much and where there is contact. That should tell if there is enough sealing surface.
 
Sunday Rider said:
I've been using the Bosch 3323 for the last few years
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I've been using a similar/same filter on my ST1300 and nary a leak. (Different animal.) But another possible concern is the shape of the bottom of the filter with the return (?) holes for the oil.

A few years ago Bosch inexplicably released a run of ST compatible filters that have that area in a convex shape instead of the concave normal concave shape. The vexing part keep the O-ring from even touching the block. Obviously that run was not compatible.

Thinking it had been some time since that faux pas I bought one and — it didn't work. The convex was slight. Enough so that I wasn't sure it was a problem filter. Returned and all was well.

If your filter score was a fairly recent batch and there's not a inch of dust on the box then it's probably not an issue. A quick check and you'll know.
 
ST Gui said:
I've been using a similar/same filter on my ST1300 and nary a leak. (Different animal.) But another possible concern is the shape of the bottom of the filter with the return (?) holes for the oil.

A few years ago Bosch inexplicably released a run of ST compatible filters that have that area in a convex shape instead of the concave normal concave shape. The vexing part keep the O-ring from even touching the block. Obviously that run was not compatible.

Thinking it had been some time since that faux pas I bought one and — it didn't work. The convex was slight. Enough so that I wasn't sure it was a problem filter. Returned and all was well.

If your filter score was a fairly recent batch and there's not an inch of dust on the box then it's probably not an issue. A quick check and you'll know.
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Thanks, this is good to know. I ended up getting 4 of them for $3.99 Canadian each.
I didn’t want to use/try it on my winter oil change as I just take enough Tupperware screws out to slip the old one off and new one on and couldn’t see if the seal was tight.
These are concave. Not sure if I would have noticed either if you didn’t mention it.
 
I found some car oil filters at a garage sale. They were the same diameter. The seals lined up. The only difference was that they were 7/8” longer which doesn’t seem to be a problem.

Is there any good reason why not to use these filters?

PS. I put one on my bike, cranked it, no leaks.
 
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Danger said:
I found some car oil filters at a garage sale. They were the same diameter. The seals lined up. The only difference was that they were 7/8” longer which doesn’t seem to be a problem.

Is there any good reason why not to use these filters?

PS. I put one on my bike, cranked it, no leaks.
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I’m remembering when I had my V65 Sabre I would not remember which oil filter to get. I would look up a 1984 Honda Cvcc and get that filter. It was bigger, but never a problem.
 
Danger said:
I found some car oil filters at a garage sale. They were the same diameter. The seals lined up. The only difference was that they were 7/8” longer which doesn’t seem to be a problem.

Is there any good reason why not to use these filters?

PS. I put one on my bike, cranked it, no leaks.
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Excluding the obvious things like the quality of the filter construction, the quality of the parts used to assemble it, and the filtering capability of the filter media in it, the major differences are whether or not it has an anti back-flow valve and at what pressure the relief valve opens at. The ST1300 oil filter is mounted horizontally so having an anti back-flow valve is required. If the pressure relief valve is significantly different than what is spec'd for the ST1300 you could be running with unfiltered oil under some conditions if the valve opens at to low of a pressure or with no oil under other conditions if the valve opening pressure is far to high for this application. Whether or not the difference is significant enough to actually cause a problem is debatable but I mention it to highlight that there is more than the physical size and O-ring placement that goes in to the design of an oil filter.
 
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Excellent response. Anti back-flow and pressure relief—something that I didn’t consider. My typical routine is to change oil and filter every 3,000 miles. Maybe I’ll change the filter after only 1,000 miles or so.
 
Danger said:
Excellent response. Anti back-flow and pressure relief—something that I didn’t consider. My typical routine is to change oil and filter every 3,000 miles. Maybe I’ll change the filter after only 1,000 miles or so.
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You can do what you choose, but every 1,000 miles is way overkill- these are low stressed engines, so the factory interval for the ST1100 (and I assume the 1300 as well) is every 8K miles- I normally do mine at 1/2 that (generally yearly). I was using Mobil 1 M-110 filters but switched to the M1-108 as shorter helps with the oil filter housing cooler on the 1994 bike (meaning it’s easier to get on and off there).
 
FWIW, I just stick with the Calsci list of compatible oil filters -

https://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html

There are usually several low cost options on the list but I go with the longer Purolator ones.
That's work for me for over 1/2 million miles between 4 ST1100s so far. ;)
I also use fully syn (Mobil 1 Motorcycle Racing T right now) and change at 10,000 miles.
 
Uncle Phil said:
FWIW, I just stick with the Calsci list of compatible oil filters -

https://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html

There are usually several low cost options on the list but I go with the longer Purolator ones.
That's work for me for over 1/2 million miles between 4 ST1100s so far. ;)
I also use fully syn (Mobil 1 Motorcycle Racing T right now) and change at 10,000 miles.
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Thanks for this. I see the Bosch 3300 is listed on there when you go to the [5]

Oil Filter Cross Reference

www.calsci.com www.calsci.com
 
Years ago, in my Guzzi days, there were extended discussions of oil filters. First of all, the MG filters were relatively expensive. The oil filter lived inside the oil pan - unless you purchased an 'outsider' cast aluminum pan, you had to drop said oil pan (after remembering to drain the oil first) just to get to the filter. That oil pan was secured by around a dozen allen head bolts - and the gasket often tore when you dropped the pan requiring a new one. Said 'outsider' was a cast aluminum oil pan with passageways that routed the oil to an outside nipple and back to the internal oil ways. Many different brand oil filters screwed onto that nipple, simplifying oil filter changes. There were, of course, some guys who made their own mods to the OEM oil pan since the 'outsider' cost a couple of hundred bucks.

Many of the discussions revolved around the spring loaded relief valve. Back then it seemed to be proprietary information and several Guzzi owners could not pry that loose from the various filter manufacturers. We were thus left to experiment and hope for the best.
 
Uncle Phil said:
FWIW, I just stick with the Calsci list of compatible oil filters -

https://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html

There are usually several low cost options on the list but I go with the longer Purolator ones.
That's work for me for over 1/2 million miles between 4 ST1100s so far. ;)
I also use fully syn (Mobil 1 Motorcycle Racing T right now) and change at 10,000 miles.
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Great list. I will use this list going forward.
 
SMSW said:
Years ago, in my Guzzi days, there were extended discussions of oil filters. First of all, the MG filters were relatively expensive. The oil filter lived inside the oil pan - unless you purchased an 'outsider' cast aluminum pan, you had to drop said oil pan (after remembering to drain the oil first) just to get to the filter. That oil pan was secured by around a dozen allen head bolts - and the gasket often tore when you dropped the pan requiring a new one. Said 'outsider' was a cast aluminum oil pan with passageways that routed the oil to an outside nipple and back to the internal oil ways. Many different brand oil filters screwed onto that nipple, simplifying oil filter changes. There were, of course, some guys who made their own mods to the OEM oil pan since the 'outsider' cost a couple of hundred bucks.

Many of the discussions revolved around the spring loaded relief valve. Back then it seemed to be proprietary information and several Guzzi owners could not pry that loose from the various filter manufacturers. We were thus left to experiment and hope for the best.
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This is 20/20 hindsight but It seems to me that some industrious bike rider could have measured the amount of force in the springs and could have duplicated it.

Are your Guzzi days behind you or do you still fight the good fight? I believe that the struggle would haunt me to my grave.
 
Danger said:
This is 20/20 hindsight but It seems to me that some industrious bike rider could have measured the amount of force in the springs and could have duplicated it.

Are your Guzzi days behind you or do you still fight the good fight? I believe that the struggle would haunt me to my grave.
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My '76T3 sat in my garage after restoration #1 for about 10 years. Then in the mid 20teens I started over again. I'd already put in an electronic ignition and replaced damaged handlebar switches, replaced brake lines w/ SS braided lines, new calipers, recovered the seat, outsider, etc, etc. The second restoration saw an Enduralast 450 watt alternator upgrade, I replaced the old fusebox w/ a Blue sea unit, halogen headlght, custom windshield, crash bars, and a custom made rear carrier. I also opted for a professional paint job. If you know Guzzi's, you know of Greg Bender and I absolutely loved his restoration. I had the wheels trued and put on radial tires. Before I added some of the things I wanted to, I took it for a few rides. I simply did not like the old technology handling. I was spoiled by the way my ST1300 handled curves, the way my VStrom rode, and I decided to sell it. I advertised and a guy came up from Alabama - he put a big cylinder kit on it, used some electronic wizardry to adjust the jetting and rode it for a couple of years, last I heard. I was delighted that the bike found him as it's new owner. This was the bike I sold.
IMG_5602.jpg
 
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