If not now, then..... when?

[ChucksKLRST]

There are lovely views and roads here and I have ridden quite a few of them over the years.
I did all the major Sierra passes in one day, the Million Dollar Highway, BearTooth Pass, Chief Joseph, Highway to the Sun, the North Cascade Highway, etc.
But my question to both of you - have you ever ridden in the Alps?

and it is more than just the riding. It is the culture of the areas. The shear number of places to stop and have a meal or a drink, in what seems the most secluded areas, There seems to always be a Gasthaus / Eatery around every corner or atop of every peak. The culture and flair seem to just ooze from the mountains. I also have ridden all those areas you have mentioned, but I agree, the Alps are the best.

 

[HPPants]

Day 5: Sulvan, Switzerland to Saint Maurice, France

The apartment we rented included 3 beds in a “loft” attic-like space. It was a bit warm at first, but during the night, things cooled off well. The doorways in the place were low, and I banged the top of my bald head more than once. I was a little sore in the morning.

They host had coffee supplies for us, and I enjoyed my cuppa with a view.

Let me say something about Greg’s routing – in a phrase, it was spectacular and his efforts did not go unnoticed. Most every evening after dinner, Greg would sit down with his laptop and plot a route for tomorrow. He was able to use his experience to generate general routing and he enhanced the route using a program called Kurviger, which finds the curviest routes in the area. From there, a route would be generated on Greg’s My Route App account, to which we all had access to. At times, I was having challenges getting the route to my GPS, so I used my Garmin USB cable to download it directly from Greg’s laptop. Even so, I usually loaded the file as a track, to ensure my best chance of Garmin not “recalculating” the route and changing things up. As I wasn’t leading, this was plenty good enough for me to just have a good idea of where we were going.

And where are we going today? Further south, it would appear.

As we ride, the further south we go, the more mountainous the terrain gets.

This is one of my favorite pictures of Bryan and Marissa.

During the day, we crossed another border into France, our 3rd country in 3 days. My hamburger for lunch was delicious.

We are finding the Europe that I have grown to love – rural Europe. Here in the villages and the farms and the countryside, things are far different than in the big cities. It’s slower and quieter. Everything is so clean and tidy. They re-purpose materials and are creative in their endeavors. Everywhere we go, the people are warm and friendly. They are rightfully proud of their home, and seemingly happy that we chose to come here on our holiday.

And I am having great fun “trying”. I want to speak to all of them. I want them to tell me something – anything, really. I use very simple and broken English in my efforts. My wife and my kids are bi (and tri) lingual. In that respect, Pants is dumber than a bag of rocks. But they want me to try and I am. I think my wife would have been proud of me.

Greg owns over 20 Yamaha FJR motorcycles. One of them is this one, which he shipped to Knopft and stores it there all year long. My motorcycle has, of all things, a Texas license plate. Greg’s FJR sports an Arizona plate. The other two are Germany plates. This alone draws people to us like magnets.

In the mid afternoon, the route takes us off pavement for a bonified Goat Trail. As I am on an “ADV Bike”, I am not worried in the slightest. It was a nice slow change of pace.

Who could argue with any road that provides this kind of view?

This picture needs no description.

It can’t be adventure, without adventure.

We get back on pavement, but happily the Goat Trails continue. Kurviger is fantastic – we would NEVER find these roads without it.

Or… cow trails as it were.

The French Alps are beautiful. I found them to be different than what we’ve seen so far. Less trees, more “tundra-like” terrain. A shade different color in the rocks. I get so much enjoyment in observing the land.

What a day, man.

This is Roseland Lake and it is indescribably gorgeous. The turquoise hue on the water contrasting with the grassy and rocky hillsides is like a natural painting to me.

We spent a few minutes at this lake, looking around. Everyone was taking pictures and soaking in the environment. I remember enjoying a little time alone in the hillside of the shoreline, thinking about how truly blessed I was to be on this trip. I was feeling proud that I had the gumption to “go for it”, and I was reaping and basking in my reward.
Greg found an apartment for us to stay at in the town of Saint Maurice. The restaurant nearby was nice with good service, good bier, and good dessert. Everywhere we eat, the service is excellent. I am reminded that by in large, for these people, this is not some tenuous part time job that helps pay for college. This is their career, what they have chosen to do. They take pride in that, and they want us to have a nice experience enjoying their food.

Today was the kind of day that riders dream about. For the better part of the ride, we had the roads all to ourselves, but at no point did I feel apprehensible about being “alone”. The views and scenery were just incredible. I can’t remember ever having gone to a place where the view was literally 360 degrees around me, continuously for most of the day. I felt immersed in it, and that brought me to a new level spiritually.

I’m in the mode now and I’m having such a wonderful time.

 

[HPPants]

I've got a good bit more than 500,000 miles under my belt on a motorcycle. That doesn't make me an expert, but I've ridden ALL of the rockies, ALL of Appalacia, the Ozarks (20 times), northern California, Quebec, New England, the Adirondacks, the Pcoconos, etc.

All of those places (and more) are beautiful. But I have found NOTHING in the US that can compare to the Alps, neither in terms of the riding, nor the scenery. OF course, your mileage may vary. I hope you Enjoy the rest of this ride report.

 

[Mophead]

ScooterG making an appearance on the ST Owners board. Love his attitude on most anything.

 

[Moto-Charlie]

For a couple of days, Greg has been touting a particular restaurant he wanted to eat at in this region. We found it on this day.

I have been following your travel log and am glad you are enjoying your tour. The Restaurant Gabelspitz is at the top of the Schallenberg Pass (1,100 meters) about 20 minutes from my base hotel. It has been a good luck ritual for me to have that be the first pass I ride every time I pick up my rental bike. It is beautiful country as is everywhere that you are riding. I ride almost everywhere you've been at least once a year.

It's why I started my small Alps tour business, as a way to pay for my Alps riding addiction. After 40 years it never gets old. I spent 3 weeks riding parts of the Rockies last July for a refresher comparison. They are beautiful too, but they are not the Alps. As @ChucksKLRST mentioned the Alps are special for the sheer density of great roads, the scenery, the motorcycle friendly culture, the food and historic culture and the abundance of hostelries and restaurants at the top of most passes and in cool out of the way locations. It is all an unbeatable combination.

Be well and stay safe.

 

[drrod]

We are finding the Europe that I have grown to love – rural Europe. Here in the villages and the farms and the countryside, things are far different than in the big cities. It’s slower and quieter. Everything is so clean and tidy.

You are discovering a big aspect (of many) that keeps us going back. You can spend a lifetime riding the Alps but save some time for the Pyrenees as well. I think I have my 10th ride coming up.

 

[HPPants]

Day 6: Saint Maurice, France to Pollein, Italy

Gary, Greg, and I shared a bedroom with bunk beds. I drew the short straw and slept “up top”. Answering the call of nature during the night was NOT “graceful”, in any way.

We walked to the local grocery to pickup food for breakfast. European groceries have different operations than in the States. I’m adapting fairly well.

With Greg’s route uploaded, we mount up and head out – again, south we go. First on the agenda is Saint Bernard Pass.

Some rain has run through early this morning and it’s foggy. We get to the top, and cross into Italy. If you are counting, that’s 4 countries in 4 days.

It’s chilly up here (about 50 deg. F) and I have to leave my riding gear (with layers underneath) on. I haven’t felt these temperatures at home in a LONG time, and it was very enjoyable.

Now heading down the mountain on the Italy side, with the clouds starting to burn off, the scenery is getting exponentially better.

And the road is getting MUCH twistier. I’m having to support my limited engine braking with a decent dose of front and rear braking.

Looking quite well, you two!

I’m pretty sure we have the Right-of-Way, but there’s not much point in arguing over semantics.

Does this bike make my ass look big?

On this trip, I succumbed and reprieved my self-imposed “no drinking while riding” rule. I’ll admit it – I’m weak. The bier offered during lunch was just too appetizing, and as previously mentioned, lunch in these parts is “lengthy”. I will have plenty of time to metabolize my treat.

Greg’s route took us on this out-and-back road that ran along this running river in the middle of a huge valley with big mountains on both sides. So much fun.

Heading back after a stop at the dead end of this road, I took the lead so that I could stop and take a few pictures. Bryan and Marissa are really enjoying the BMW GS1300 they have rented and I must say, they are loaded, but the bike is performing very well.

This is good stuff, man.

And peace be with you, ma’am.

We get back to the “destination” part of the route and continue further into Italy. The alps here are yet again different than what we saw in Switzerland or France. Here, I find the mountains a bit higher in elevation, less green, with more exposed rocks.

The crown padding in my Shoei helmet has seen better days and the bumps on my head from last night are not helping. In the afternoon, we dropped into the Aosta Valley, and I broke off from the group to try and find a replacement pad, to no avail. I’ll have to think of something.

We settled at a quaint independent local hotel in Pollein, Italy, nestled in the valley. This was a slightly larger township that we have grown accustomed to, lined with farms running up the hillsides. It seems like when we get lower than about 600 meters, then I start to see row crops. Here, they are growing potatoes, corn, and wine grapes.

For dinner, we walked up the hill a few blocks to a place the hotel clerk suggested.

In Italy, even the cheap table wine is delicious.

Gary and I shared a lamb dish and it was very good.

A culinary theme is starting to develop on this trip. Dessert!

Only about 200 km today, and I was pleased that the group didn’t seem to mind my incessive stopping and sniffing. Tomorrow is another day.

 

[wizel]

Keep it up—I’m glad you’re enjoying the Alps.
I’ve spent a few thousand kilometers there myself. I always treat myself to a two-week trip—mainly to the Swiss Alps—for my milestone birthdays (30, 40, 50, 60).
You’ve still got a few beautiful passes to cover: Grimsel, Furka, Splügen, Susten, Gavia, and Nufenen.
Best regards, Holm from Germany.

 

[HPPants]

Day 7: Pollein, Italy to Maigliano, Italy

It’s warmer down in the valley and we were very glad to have air conditioning in our hotel rooms. These people could teach the American hospitality industry a lesson or two about the concept of “Free Continental Breakfast”

I open up the riding jacket vents to go this morning, and we are on our way.

Let me offer you something about the trip, logistically. At this point, I have ridden with these people for 5 days and we’ve covered about 1200 kilometers. I’m attuned to their riding habits, mannerisms, etc. As I hoped, everyone is experienced and considerate. We agree to a Kickstands Up time and everyone is ready to go on time. It’s not that I’m wanting to be anal about this, far from it. But it’s warm today, and when you are all geared up and ready, the last thing you want to do is sit there and bake in the sun while the others fiddle-fart around. No one here is of that mindset – they are prepared to go when its time to go. I find great comfort in that.

Objects in this mirror are much cooler than they appear.

By this point in the trip, to be succinct, I have no questions. I am not concerned in the slightest where we are going, or when we get there. The sun is shining and I trust the people I am with implicitly. How freeing that is for me. I’ve led more than my share of motorcycle tours. I enjoy that, but do admit that keeping ahead of the group mentally and logistically takes some effort. To be clear, I’m not being complacent or uninterested. I’m just living in the moment and taking this adventure as it comes.

And as luck would have it, our fearless leader ain’t doing too bad either!

We get on this goat trail, start climbing, and when we get to the top, find a nice place to stop and take it in.

One peek at the GPS is all you need to know.

Greg knows instinctively where we are going, as we are in very familiar territory to him. We run a few twisty roads later in the morning and stop at this beautiful overlook. In the distance, partially covered in clouds, is the world-famous Matterhorn!

That was a really cool surprise.

We doubled back and down into that valley, and to the end of the road to stop for lunch with a view.

After lunch, we mounted back up and continued on. We went left, right, up, and down. And then we went left and right again!

Marissa is a talented Shutter Bug. I’m told that she took over 7,000 photographs on this trip. Bryan gave us access to their shared folder and on one rainy day in the future; I look forward to going through their photos.

That afternoon, I made a decision. Up to that point, we were trying to find ways to split up the cost for the lodging, but it was getting difficult to keep track. Greg and Bryan offered to just pay for the rooms from this point forward, and keep track of the cost. Then we can settle up upon our return. This made it easier on everyone. I made sure they understood that I wasn’t worried about the details. They were free to chose a place and I would gladly go wherever they booked us.

For tonight, they picked an ABB nestled in a 15th Century building. The antique furniture was pretty and the host lady was very nice.

Greg told us early on that pizza is the “fast food” of this region, and as such, he advised us to avoid ordering it if other appealing choices were available. He was implying that in some cases, circumstances would leave us with no other choice but pizza.

Tonight was one of those times. It was late and nothing else was open. The pizza was pretty good, though.

These past 7 days have flown by like a fart in the wind, but we still have well over 3 weeks to go and the anticipation of what lies around the next curve has me dreaming good thoughts.

 

[HPPants]

And now a programming note:

This trip has been completed - I returned home July 7. I'm not writing it in "real time". Just putting it together after the fact.

 

[Weaselinsuit]

Gorgeous pics! I remain unconvinced that the Alps are better than the Rockies however and will require hard evidence to the contrary. To that end my GoFundMe is available for donations; "Send a Weasel to Europe".....

 

[wizel]

And me to the Rocky Mountains.
Holm from Germany

 

[ChucksKLRST]

And me to the Rocky Mountains.
Holm from Germany

You don't know what you have until you don't have it.

 

[ST1100Y]

And me to the Rocky Mountains

... for years I'm mulling over the idea to crate my ST, airlift it over there and tour the entire north + Canada...
(the dinosaurs here who've already been on the email-liST might recall... )

 

[HPPants]

Day 8: Maigliano, Italy to Brienz, Switzerland

The antique bed had a mattress that was kind of soft, but it didn’t matter much ‘cause I passed out proper last night. For this trip, I brought dry fit shirts and base layers, so it was real easy to just dunk dirty cloths in the bathroom sink and hang them to dry in the open window.

Breakfast this morning was a little fancy – I was being careful not to break a dish or something.

For the first time in the trip, today we are changing directions. Greg explained to us last night that for the next week or so, we are going to generally head East, but to get there, we will be zigging north back into Switzerland, followed by zagging south back into Italy. I was certainly in no position to argue any of that, as the route thus far has been stupendous.

We found a pleasant farm road this morning to ride slow and enjoy. This Shepard and his 2 sidekicks are working today.

It’s just another ****** day in Italy– a tough job to be sure, but somebody has to do it.

We cross the open border back into Switzerland without stopping, and very soon, the topography changes again.

It’s stunningly gorgeous. I find it hard to guess how far I can see, and if I stare at it a while, I start to notice details I otherwise would have missed.

I can’t remember who took this picture, but I like it.

The wildflowers here are in full bloom, and are providing lots of color for us to enjoy while we ride.

It’s hard to believe this, but the riding continues to get better and better!

Comparatively early, we ended the day in Brientz, Switzerland. There is a lot to do here, so Greg reserved an apartment at this hotel for 3 nights.

The view from our bedroom of Lake Brientz is beautiful

It’s early, so after we settled into the apartment, we walked down to the lakeshore to check it out.

We got groceries and before dinner, Marissa and I made charcuterie.

We had dinner at the hotel restaurant.

Not all Schnitzels are created equal. When you order it, depending on where you are, what you get varies. This one was ok – the gravy left me a bit disappointed.

Life is most definitely good.

 

[HPPants]

Day 9: Brienz, Switzerland

It’s cooler up here and the breeze coming through the open window last night was really nice.

For the past few days, we’ve been riding pretty deliberately. We are certainly not winning any distance awards, but for the most part, we haven’t stopped much except to take in a roadside view.

Today that is going to change. We are staying in Brienz 2 more nights so that we can have some off bike activities. Greg has been lauding about this area, called the Jung Frau region of Switzerland, and he has some great plans in store for us. Included in that is the promise that we will see some waterfalls, and THAT has got me VERY excited.

First up this morning is a short ride along Lake Brienz toward Interlaken.

We pull into the lovely village of Lauterbrunnen and I am immediately gob smacked! That is a 1000-foot waterfall running beautifully just outside the village.

This is going to be a fantastic day.

We stop at a place called the Trammelbach Falls. I am really stoked about the thought of walking to some waterfalls, but at this point I really don’t hear any water running.

Then we boarded this vermicular, which took us INTO the mountain.

And then it became clear – the waterfalls are located within caves located from INSIDE the mountain.

Someone spent a lot of money on pathways, handrails, and other infrastructure so that we can enjoy this.

The whole place is a labyrinth of connected caves with roaring waterfalls of various sizes and shapes. SOOOOO freaking cool!

I’ve never seen anything like this. Greg knew that I would like it, and he was spot on!

We get back to the motorcycles and take a short ride through this magnificent valley.

This is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. It is so picturesque.

That was really fun, but the day is young and there is more to do. We head back to Brient, drop the motorcycles off at the hotel, and walk down to the shoreline to board a steam powered ferry paddle boat that will take us across the lake. We enjoyed the open view of the boat motor.

The boat dropped us off at a place called Geissbach Falls. More waterfalls? Right on, man. We hopped on the venicular to take us up to the hotel for lunch.

Gary is having some kind of trouble with his foot. It’s hard for him to put weight on it, and so after lunch, he took the early ferry back to Brienz to elevate and rest his foot.

The rest of us hiked the falls.

I’m in my happy place, now.

Before I left for the trip, I spoke with our financial advisor about a mundane issue. During the conversation, he asked me if I had any travel plans, and I shared with him that I was going to Europe to ride a motorcycle for a month. I further thanked him profoundly for what he has done to help enable Tammy and I to have the incredible life we have (he has advised us for 36 years). He then informed me that he has a collection of small rocks that were given to him by clients from all over the world, and he requested that I bring him home a rock for his collection.

At this place, I was feeling particularly grateful for my wonderful blessings. So I picked up a small piece of granite for David.

Having reached almost to the top of the 1300-foot waterfall, we turned around and descended back down the trail. Toward the bottom, I found this pool and could not resist putting my feet in it. That glacial water was ice cold!

The ice cream in Switzerland is creamy and delicious.

We caught the last ferry back to Brienz, and for dinner, we made a nice charcuterie platter and sat on the hotel apartment patio. I found a Hazy IPA brewed locally that was mighty tasty.

I love hiking to waterfalls. The white noise is cleansing to me. Greg promised me waterfalls, and he hit it out of the park – Grand Slam! I walked about 5 miles today and I don’t think it got much past 65 degrees.

I knew I would like Switzerland, but I didn’t realize I would like it this much. Today was just fabulous.

 

[DeanR]

Love your writing Mr Pants.
Man, talk about living vicariously!

 

[HPPants]

Day 10: Brienz, Switzerland

What an amazing day yesterday – Greg will have to work VERY hard to top that. I slept like a baby and woke up just in time to look out the bedroom window for a nice light show across the lake.

Before I knew it, Kickstands were up and we are off again!

Let me stop and say something about the weather. In a word – STUPID Good! Ok – that’s 2 words, sorry. For 10 days now, we’ve had fantastic weather. Any rain upon us has occurred overnight, and the temperatures have been fantastic. The mornings are cool and fresh, and even if it warms up a lot in the afternoon, that only last a few hours and by 5:30 or so, its dropping back down and quite pleasant for Happy Hour. I’m really enjoying the weather in Europe.

Gary’s foot is not much better, and so he will stay behind today and try to get some relief. I felt sorry for him and hope for a fast recovery.

Today we will ride back to Lauterbrunnen, and then park the bikes and use Mass Transit. We took the early train up the mountain to the “no cars allowed” village of Wengen.

We walked to the edge of the village and, uh…. Yeah. I’m gonna need a few minutes to soak this view up.

The valley way down there in the distance is the area we visited yesterday (Trammelbach Falls).

I can hear my wife saying: “This place is like a Hallmark Movie!”

Believe it or not, we have to climb more and from here, the name of that game is: Gondola.

I wonder if these people know that they live in Nirvana?

The gondola drops us off at a place they call Mannichen and I am blown away. It was like a 1,000-acre Scenic View Overlook. I see a walking trail heading up to a mountain peak, and instinctively I start heading to it.

I noticed a bride and groom were taking wedding photos at the edge of a mountain when a gust of wind blew her veil off her head! She recovered it, no harm, no foul.

Apparently, this type of peculiar fencing is used to stop an avalanche from wreaking havoc on the village.

It was a pretty steep climb, but there ain’t NOTHING keeping me from getting to that view.

And to the victor goes the spoils. This is without any doubt the most picturesque and beautiful place I have ever seen in my whole life.

I sat down and had a moment of disbelief. I remember feeling like my eyes were playing tricks on me. I was having trouble believing what I was seeing. It was like the most vivid, most artistic landscape painting I could ever imagine.

And then my attention turned inward.

My mind started playing with my emotions, which raised questions. How can this be? How can a simple public servant from deep south Louisiana end up at such a place? Have I done enough in my life to deserve such a reward? When I was a kid, my Momma, a devout southern Catholic, would regularly remind me that “…. If you have love and kindness in your heart, then love and kindness will come to you”. She was referring to the concept of Karma, although she didn’t use that word. I’m a man of science, and things like Karma are very hard for me to accept. But sitting at this place, marveling at what I can only describe as Heaven on Earth, I found it impossible to put it to logical reasoning. Surely, Momma’s Karma must exist and the Boogie Man must have decided that today, Pants gets his turn.

I missed my wife at that moment. She would have loved to see this, but truly, she would have loved seeing how happy it made me much more. I had a feeling of warmth in my heart that is hard to describe. It was like I was cloaked in some kind of “Blessing Blanket” over my body.

Cheers to Karma. Stay thirsty, my friends.

We walked back down the way we came up, stopping along the way to enjoy the view. Marissa and I did our best impression of Julie Andrews dancing in the meadow to the Sound of Music. Neither of us should quit our day jobs just yet. Greg took a video of us and it was funny.

Back at the Mannichen station, we grabbed another cable car heading down. What a terrific way to see the land.

We got off that cable car in the village of Grindelwald and took a bus into town. We had good burgers there for lunch and then hopped another cable car up to what they call First Mountain.

In the immortal words of a childhood hero: “It’s a beautiful day in the neighborhood…..”

Here, there is what they call a Cliff Walk and yes Sir Re Bob – we are doing it!

Thank you, Greg, for taking me to this place. You’ve made ole Pants very happy.

Up until point, for the entire trip, at any given stop, Greg kept insisting it would “get better – just wait”. At this place he told us quite matter of factly:

“From here on, it might be as good as this, but I don’t think we will find better.”

Well done, sir.

We had dessert at the top of First Mountain, and then reversed course, using all of the transportation methods (Cable Car, Bus, Train, etc) to take us back down to the motorcycles. My New York City son would have been proud of my mass transit skills (not!!). We grabbed some food in the train station grocery and ate it on the ride. Then it was a short moto ride back to Brienz.

Two days off the bike was good for my body, and really good for my soul.

 

[the Ferret]

Spectacular. Makes me want to go back.

I've often said if Europe was where Canada is, I'd go there quite often.

 

[Moto-Charlie]

One of the reasons I base my tours in Thun (at the top of the lake above Interlaken, which sits between the Thun Lake and Brienz Lake - hence the name) is because of all the beautiful and breathtaking Swiss jewels that you got to experience in that area. I've spent a fair bit of time in the Lauterbrunnen Valley before, during and after my tours and with family. There is such as concentration of unbelievable things to see and do there - simply spectacular. I love all of the Alps and there are many other special places, but none better than that valley for scenery, accessibility and things to do.

The Lauterbrunnen Valley is considered one of the most beautiful valleys in the world. It was the inspiration for Tolkien's Lord of the Rings. I am pleased for you that you had such good weather - not always the case in the mountains.