Clutch slipping

Hey there,

Today my clutch starting slipping while riding two up. I haven't flushed the clutch fluid in a while and maybe I should do that first to see if it fixes the issue.

I'm at 107000 and have done more two up riding on this bike but I can't tell if it should really be time to replace the clutch.

I also have no idea where the clutch is on the bike and how hard it is to replace so I'll have to start digging into it.

Am I missing anything to check? Any advice on this job? I've got until Friday to get it going. Not sure that's going to happen.

Curt

On the ST1100 it isn't the clutch plates that measure below spec... it is the clutch springs and a set of them are pretty inexpensive.

You might have the plates on hand and unopened just in case you find you only need the springs...

Actually with the price of restocking fees you might want to just have the springs ready... and then, if you need the plates, order them with expedited shipping...

Super Sabre replaced his clutch recently on his ST1300. The clutch is right on the front of the engine and easy to get to. He posted here during the job.

With 100K on the bike, I'd recommend replacing everything.
Soak the discs in engine oil for a few hours before installing them, and make sure the sharp edges of the steel plates face outward.
Very simple job to do.
With new plates and springs, and a flush & bleed, you should be go to go for another 100K
Let us know what you find.

I remember reading something about the clutch plate procedure regarding a chain behind the clutch basket and to be careful not to lose the chain behind "something". Someone did the procedure and posted some pictures on this site. I can't find it quickly. Maybe worth a search.

Thanks for the posts guys. I believe there is a gear that wants to come off with the cover that you should hold in place when you pull off the cover. So I'll watch for that.

I'm wondering if the gasket can just me reused? I'm going to purchase another one anyway since I think mine's been weeping since day 1, but it looks like one person didn't replace his and just used some honda bond before putting it back on.

I'll be sure to take some pics when I'm doing it. If anyone has more to share please post it.

Thanks,
Curt

I have read that a lot of the police departments go to Barnett clutches when they replace them.

eBay Link

You will likely also want to address the springs.

Supersaber had found the entire clutch basket from a wrecked 1300 on ebay with low miles so he swapped the entire assembly. Someone here recently needed a new basked because he dropped his while doing some work and I think SS helped him out.

There is something about a chain that I recall as well. There is a thread from SuperSaber around here somewhere when he did this. Also how does your water pump look? I thought mine was leaking a while back and bought all the parts to do that job. It was about $100 for everything for the water pump. Some of those were the seals that are needed for doing the clutch so you can get the impeller and related parts for another $60 or so on top of what you would likely need anyhow. I know that SS was telling me to replace the clutch as long as I was in there. My issue ended up being something else so I never replaced the water pump. I do have all the parts sitting in a box in case you want to go that route and something is on backorder. I want to keep the parts on hand in case my weeping water pump gets any worse. It is so minor now that I am not going to mess with it until it gets worse or the clutch shows signs of issues then I will work on both.

Here is a link to the waterpump thread with a lot of the part numbers that you will need.

Water Pump

Thanks for the info. I may try and just get a Barnett overnighted to me if it really is a better clutch setup.

Curt

Well from my digging around there appears to be 3 main options that I found.

OEM
Barnett
EBC

OEM - Well we know it works. It is what you have
Barnett - It seems that a lot of LEOs wear out the OEM clutch relatively quick. It seems that Barnett is the go to for them for a replacement in my research
EBC - It is another option however cost wasn't that much less and I thought I saw in on location that there may be an issue with synthetic oil.

For what it is worth the Barnett kit that I sent a link to appears to have the clutch springs in the kit.

sennister said:

Well from my digging around there appears to be 3 main options that I found.

OEM
Barnett
EBC


OEM - Well we know it works. It is what you have
Barnett - It seems that a lot of LEOs wear out the OEM clutch relatively quick. It seems that Barnett is the go to for them for a replacement in my research
EBC - It is another option however cost wasn't that much less and I thought I saw in on location that there may be an issue with synthetic oil.

For what it is worth the Barnett kit that I sent a link to appears to have the clutch springs in the kit.

Click to expand...

Looks like I'm going to try and get a Barnett setup. It's the same or less then buying OEM and I can probably get it overnight.

I think the issue will be getting the gasket but if I used Honda bond or something I may be able to do without replacing it although I would prefer to have it.

Too bad Barnett doesn't make the gasket.

Curt

Anyone have the gasket for the clutch cover laying around?

GASKET, FR. CRANKCASE COVER 11394-MCS-000 7122708

Curt

crazykz said:

Anyone have the gasket for the clutch cover laying around?

GASKET, FR. CRANKCASE COVER 11394-MCS-000 7122708

Curt

Click to expand...

I have the entire package of parts needed to do the waterpump. Impeller, seals and all the gaskets. Like I mentioned if you need any of the parts let me know. I don't have a plan to use them anytime soon. In that is the crankcase cover gasket.

sennister said:

I have the entire package of parts needed to do the waterpump. Impeller, seals and all the gaskets. Like I mentioned if you need any of the parts let me know. I don't have a plan to use them anytime soon. In that is the crankcase cover gasket.

Click to expand...

I'll take the gasket if you're willing to send it. I'll PM you.

Curt

Here is the gasket you asked about and the rest of the parts.

I can send as much or as little as you want.





Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk 2

It is not too bad to change the clutch plates and springs. My clutch started to slip when i was towing a unigo trailer last year. I put some aftermarket springs that were a little stiffer than stock and some new plates as well. You will cuss Honda when you realize you have to remove the RH exhaust headers to get the cover off. It is close and it would not have taken much on Honda's part to make the cover removable without doing this. Make sure you do not disturb the oil pump drive chain and sprocket behind the clutch. Cleaning the old gasket off the engine is fun due to limited access.
Also put a block under the clutch lever so no one pulls the lever while the cover is off, easy to damage the clutch slave cylinder if the clutch is pulled and the slave cylinder is not mounted.

While the cover is off I would also replace the clutch push rod seal behind the slave cylinder. Easy to do this while the cover is off and with 100K miles a good idea.

Better also get some exhaust gaskets just in case.

bdalameda said:

It is not too bad to change the clutch plates and springs. My clutch started to slip when i was towing a unigo trailer last year. I put some aftermarket springs that were a little stiffer than stock and some new plates as well. You will cuss Honda when you realize you have to remove the RH exhaust headers to get the cover off. It is close and it would not have taken much on Honda's part to make the cover removable without doing this. Make sure you do not disturb the oil pump drive chain and sprocket behind the clutch. Cleaning the old gasket off the engine is fun due to limited access.
Also put a block under the clutch lever so no one pulls the lever while the cover is off, easy to damage the clutch slave cylinder if the clutch is pulled and the slave cylinder is not mounted.

While the cover is off I would also replace the clutch push rod seal behind the slave cylinder. Easy to do this while the cover is off and with 100K miles a good idea.

Better also get some exhaust gaskets just in case.

Click to expand...

bd, probably good advice for working on an 1100 but most likely not necessary on Curt's 1300. The clutch slave cylinder is located on the back of the engine on the 1300 and hopefully we shouldn't have to do anything with the exhaust header on the 1300.

I thought he had an ST1100 sorry

bdalameda said:

It is not too bad to change the clutch plates and springs. My clutch started to slip when i was towing a unigo trailer last year. I put some aftermarket springs that were a little stiffer than stock and some new plates as well. You will cuss Honda when you realize you have to remove the RH exhaust headers to get the cover off. It is close and it would not have taken much on Honda's part to make the cover removable without doing this. Make sure you do not disturb the oil pump drive chain and sprocket behind the clutch. Cleaning the old gasket off the engine is fun due to limited access.
Also put a block under the clutch lever so no one pulls the lever while the cover is off, easy to damage the clutch slave cylinder if the clutch is pulled and the slave cylinder is not mounted.

While the cover is off I would also replace the clutch push rod seal behind the slave cylinder. Easy to do this while the cover is off and with 100K miles a good idea.

Better also get some exhaust gaskets just in case.

Click to expand...

Very good advice.

Well I would like to get the two o-rings that they say to replace but I'm not sure that's going to happen. I'll just have to be careful with the ones I have.

8 O-RING (19.9X3.1)...................................... 3 3A -------- -------- AC 2 91301-MCF-000 6431662

I guess if anyone has a lead on these let me know. I'll check with the Honda shop today but I don't have a lot of hope there.

Curt