Hasn't happened since, and I did not use locktite either, guess I really didn't tightened it correctly the first time.
Fork removal and complete dis-assembly and cleaning, then going back with a good quality 10w fork oil, Silkolene, etc. should solve the problem. Keeping stock springs and increase the oil viscosity compensates for dampening orfices enlargement from oil friction over decades of use. As dwalby, my 175lb. carcass keeps the stock springs 'happy'. Dis-assembly of and cleaning of the anti-dive valve on left fork tends to get overlooked, and plays a bigger key to dampening than realized.John, I can't say I'm experiencing dive. It just seems like a pothole jars my front end like the forks are bottoming out. My other complaint is it seems like it settles a little much when I first put my weight on the bike. I've driven it like that for 2 summers without any big issues but I'd really like to see if I can improve it. Would you know do ST1100's come from factory with progressive springs? Where would you say would be the best place to get a Honda service manual?
I'd still have it disassembled and inspected as long as the fork tube and fork slider is separated. I didn't notice that my anti-dive had degraded over time and was surprised when I got mine apart, and especially then when I replaced the parts and braked hard for the first time.John, I can't say I'm experiencing dive. It just seems like a pothole jars my front end like the forks are bottoming out.
The OEM fork springs are progressively wound. There are straight-rate aftermarket springs available for the standard model ST1100s, not sure about the ABS and ABS II models..... do ST1100's come from factory with progressive springs?
You can order from your dealer. Part number for your 93 would be: 61MY303 (covers 91-94, std and ABS), but other editions for other years would cover it also, they'd just have extra pages/coverage for the charging and ABS systems. Here's a source and listing of the Honda ST1100 Service Manuals: http://www.servicehonda.com/service-manualsWhere would you say would be the best place to get a Honda service manual?
I can't for the life of me imagine how this could happen, but I do know Murphy's Law and its corollaries. In 17 years on the ST1100 forums I've never heard of anything like this happening. But then I'd never have believed that anyone (much less three ST owners, to date) would hook up the crankcase breather hose to the carb float bowls' drain manifold and then wonder why their ST1100 was all covered in oil.Did you tighten the fork cap securely onto the damper rod threads before inserting the fork cap into the fork? Did you leave the specified amount of threads (I think its 10.5mm, but don't have the manual in front of me) above the locknut onto which the fork cap could be threaded? Not sure what went wrong on your re-assembly, but if you tightened things properly I don't believe any loctite is called for on those threads.
anybody else ever had this problem??
John, what parts did you replace when you overhauled the anti-dive mechanism? Is there a writeup on it somewhere?... I didn't notice that my anti-dive had degraded over time and was surprised when I got mine apart, and especially then when I replaced the parts and braked hard for the first time. John
No writeup here on Owners. Pretty simple though. Looking at the schematic in the Honda Service Manual (p 13-7) I replaced everything but the spring, case cover, and bolts (items 5, 6, 11). The real problem was the piston (#10) had a piece of its lip break off so it wasn't sealing fully. Found the piece in the bottom of the fork slider when I pulled the fork tube out during a fork seals/bushings R&R.John, what parts did you replace when you overhauled the anti-dive mechanism? Is there a writeup on it somewhere?
Pretty sure any auto parts store should be able to order you one and have it in 1-2 days. Got mine the day after I ordered it and I live in a small town.Unless you call a 17mm hex wrench a special tool. I couldn't find one around my small town, so I had to fabricate one.
I used a coupling nut for mine. The one part fits in the hex head slot and enough of it sticks out so you can get a 17 mm wrench or socket on it. I can't remember the exact size of it but just try a 17mm wrench on it until you find the right one in the store.Pretty sure any auto parts store should be able to order you one and have it in 1-2 days. Got mine the day after I ordered it and I live in a small town.
the cap is threaded onto an internal damper rod. You need to slide the fork tube down to expose the threads on the top of the damper rod (fork removed from bike). Hold the 14mm nut on the damper rod with an open end wrench while spinning the fork cap with a 17mm hex driver.my 1991 has the drain bolts , 10mm ont bottom so I have drained the oil, but the right side cap will not come off? removal of fork leg or is there another way without removal
I've not seen any measurement such as this. It would be very difficult to measure the air gap with the spring in place, I would think. Spring out and vertical is the only way to know the true level. You are looking for an improvement, but I suggest not doing this properly will be of little use in that department.When the forks are on the bike and filled to the correct level with the springs in what is the air gap to the top of the tube ? Has anyone measured this ?
Left fork - I used 10-15W. Right fork 7W. Non ABS model.Also from posts some confusion as to which leg has the lighter oil
Hi John,The stock front suspension setup calls for the same suspension fluid weight in both forks. The folks experimenting with different weights will have to weigh in and explain why they differ with Mother Honda.